After the car began stalling (as described in my last post on that thread) again, I returned to Enrique.

It was at that point that we replaced the HES and (here it is where the supertitious part of me takes over) the car has been running fine ever since.

as an aside: I was so concerned with the stalling that we bought my daughter a Certified 2002 C320 sports wagon. What a wonderful wagon/car!

We kept the 300TE, which I drive on a regular basis. The W124 wagons are great cars.

Hope that the info on my thread helps you out!

__________________
Current Benzes

1989 300TE "Alice"
1990 300CE "Sam Spade"
1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007)
1998 E320 "Orson"
2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox"

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Not in this weather!

willing to help you walk thru the sequence for checking why your MB stalls

SSS factsheet:

Car model: 230TE
Year: 1992
Chassis Model: W124
Engine Model: 111.960 ?
Mileage(km/miles): 285000
State: Norway
Last tune-up (km/miles):
-Spark plug: Bosch. changed 1 week ago
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: ?
-Cap: ?

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: ( this when your release the accelerator and put your feet on the brake pedal)

-Playing music: When playing music at maximum volume while idle the oil pressure gauge and rpm stalls. It has stopped two times by this, don't know if the high powered stereo is the problem..

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Y
-Oil pressure gauge: Y
-Tachometer: Y
-Fuel Gauge: Y
-Alternator Gauge: Does not exist
-Abs light: Y
-Srs light: Y
-Engine light: Does not exist
-O2 sensor light: Does not exist
-all the other light : Y
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

-Random: When driving in R then taking it to D the engine sometimes stops. And always when I'm first in a "traffic light" (dont know in english), the engine always stops, not if I'm second, lol. It stalls more and more often. But sometimes, like some few days it can be 100% healthy.

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light: Y - ABS light may come on or flikering without a stall too.

Engine Temp when stalling: 80-115

Outside Temp when Stalling: Does not exist

Fuel gauge reading: N

Alternator's reading: Does not exist

Ac/Heater on or off: On and Off

Heated seat on or off: Does not exist

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

-Sometimes it start easy sometimes i have to wait 2 minutes to 20 hours.

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM):
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): 350-1000

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after:

-I stop the engine for few :
-Hours (specify): 2

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem?

-Personal procedure
I'm not a mechanic, but I've tried something on my own.

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

-I'm going to replace the ovp after I read it could be that on this forum. And the ABS light is going on and off all the time.

-I've changed oil, spark plugs, battery, and had fuel condens remover but none of them fixed the problem.
All because I got tips to do it.

Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

- I also replaced the air filter with a Kingdragon sportfilter.

How long since you fixe-it?

-A week and more then a month

Comment:

I've had this stalling problem since january 2008, hope it will get fixed soon.
I can't trust my car.

If it only stalls when you are playing loud music it probably is related to low voltage caused by the high power stereo system. Check your voltage under these conditions to see if your voltage is low (less than 11 volts could cause a problem). If the voltage is low check the alternator voltage regulator brushes for wear and replace as required. You may also need to install a higher capacity alternator (some of the 70A alternators barely charge at idle) and battery to continue listening to your stereo at high volume at idle. Mark

Hi,

It's been a long time since my last post, I still have the Mb 190e with a 2.6 engine.

Last winter was a mild one -14C° at the coolest so the Mb never stall.

This winter it is different story, we already have some -20C° on a few morning.

Yesterday it was -17C°, so I drive wifey to work... The car stall at the exact same convenience store as usual.

Wifey just get out of the whitout a word and walk the 150 meters to there work place , leaving me with a stalled car.

I get a coffee at the convenience store and wait about 20 minutes.

Get in the car, put the throttle to the floor, crank the engine, after 15 to 20 seconde the engine start. I notice I'm a little bit low on fuel, a quarter tank.

I get to the pump to fill the car, when I open the gaz cap I hear a big Woosh. This start me to think this not normal...

I get back home and pull out my old Mb shop manual to find out that the maximun vacuum on my gaz tank should be 1-16 mbar and the pressure should not exceed 30-50 mbar. A milibar is 14.5psi divided by 1000, to make short, nothing that you might hear or feel when you open your gaz cap.

This morning it was -20C°, before she leave I open the gaz cap and let him loose so the air could go in the tank.

Success , the mb never stall and wifey was smilling at me when she get out of the car.

I will test all the parts for the evaporative emission system and report to you the one that was in trouble.

I' m just curious how many of you guys with a SSS car have pressure or vacuum in your gaz tank???

Easy to test just open your gaz cap after you make a ride with the car if you hear a Woosh, you a problem with your evaporative emission system.

Take care

Max

Car model: 300TE
Year: 1988
Chassis Model: 124.090?
Engine Model: 124.090?
Mileage(km/miles): It was about 70,000
State: California
Last tune-up (km/miles): 65,000
-Spark plug: HD9CO
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: New Bosch (80k miles)
-Cap: New Bosch (80k miles)

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?
Would usually stall at lights, but it did also stall while driving regardless of acceleration/deceleration.

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?
Yes until it actually stalled then all came on.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:
-Random:


Resolved with new OVP. Never stalled again.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
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2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Hi

I test all the components on the emission from the canister to the gaz tank.

I find out the air vent valve was frozen from condensation.

I just used a hair dryer to dry the condensation in the valve. Now it is working fine.

I do still have the SSS problem. It stall a few time since my last post.

I' m now working with a duty cycle tester and I built the code reader from Arthur Dalton design.

The first few code I retreive was more or less junk because I was testing some component and propably create does code.

Over the week-end after I erase the junk code the car stall again....

The code I retreive was code7 and code27

Code 7 = Rpm signal
Code 27 = Ignition contol unit

The procedure for both of this code seams to point tower the EZL(ignition control unit) as the problem. I do check all the component related to the EZL, crank sensor, temp sensor, coil, throttle valve switch, reference resistor and all wiring according to the procedure, they where all within the spec.

I do have one ground broken, the one from the intake manifold to the left of the wheelhouse under coil.

I took the decision to change the EZL ignition unit.

Will see tomorrow the weather forcast say -26 C°.

Max

Hi

Yep, it was -21C° this morning, no wind, thanks god....

The MB stall again this morning, nice weather to do test outside...

I still have the code 7 and 27 this morning, I test the crank sensor and it was within the spec. (985 ohms), plug it back and the car won't run.

I wait for 15 minutes or so and it just start back like nothing ever happens.

Here's my question:

What could cause this two code 7 and 27 other than the ignition module ?

This Stalling Syndrome start in winter 2006, never get worst or never get better since than.

Same sh***t different winter

Max

The crank position sensor frequently passes the tests even when bad. I would replace it. Also, this is a previous post of mine citing my experince with this issue.

I recently had intermittent ignition problems with my 91 300TE (245K miles). The car first started missing intermittently when warm and then after 50 total miles of operation since the intermittent missing began refused to start warm (it had the audacity to leave me stranded for the first time in the 130K miles I have owned it. After the car cooled down it started and ran fine a couple of times until it finally wouldn't start cold. When attempting to start the car at this point the engine locked up (I wondered if the timing chain had slipped a tooth or two) and backfired through the intake manifold (indicating improper ignition timing) before it finally wouldn't "fire" anymore. Although I could hear the fuel pumps operating, I sprayed starting fluid into the air cleaner and cranked the car to make sure it was getting fuel. It didn't fire once. Next, I cranked the car with the coil wire disconnected from the distributor and observed a healthy spark firing at what seemed to be the appropriate intervals. I checked the distributor rotor and since the resistance of the rotor appeared too high I replaced it with a new rotor I had available. Still no start. I suspected the CPS or the EZL was the culprit. Since it was easy to check the status of the CPS, I measured the resistance (800 Ohms) and the cranking voltage (.4V AC) and found all to be within specs. Although I am not in the habit of throwing parts at a problem, since I needed to make sure the car was operable within a very short time period, I ordered a coil and CPS from an online source and purchased a used EZL from ebay. I installed the ignition coil first (the easiest to do) and the car wouldn't start. Next, I installed the used EZL (next easiest to install) and the car wouldn't start. Finally, I installed the CPS and the car started without problem. When I removed the old CPS I noticed that the seal around the wires at the sensor itself had failed and moisture/oil had penetrated the area. It is a mystery to me why the voltage and resistance measurements of the old CPS were within spec and the system appeared to have good spark but I guess that happens sometimes. Because of the backfires I did try to use my timing light to get an idea of the timing situation but because the light was not bright enough at cranking speed, I could not confirm that the timing was off (although I know it was due to the backfiring). I pose this question to the experts like stevebfl, etc.---How could a defective CPS presumably retard ignition timing to where the engine won't run yet still seemingly operate the EZL/ignition coil properly?

Mark

Hi Mark

I do some test on sunday with the crank sensor.

After I erase the code 7 and 27 I start the engine and let it run to engine temp and unplug the crank sensor from the EZl, the car stop.

Take my code reader and read the code from my diagnostic socket(16pin) no code at all, just code 1 (no fault).

I do that five time in a row just to make sure the ECU doesn't need more than 1 time fault to register.

Even after 5 times no code show

After replacing the EZL monday I erase the 2 code. No code yesterday night.

After stalling this morning code 7 and 27 show up again.

The duty cycle with the new EZL is +/- 38% engine warm at idle and +/- 50 % at 2000rpm. A Little bit to rich...

To the expert here, which part most often cause code 7 and code 27

Max

From JD

SSS factsheet:

Car model: 420sel
Year: 1987
Chassis Model: W126
Engine Model: 116?
Mileage(km/miles): 100230
State: NY
Last tune-up (km/miles):100000
-Spark plug: new
-S/P Cable: new
-Rotor: new
-Cap: new

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: Not sure, was at a stop sign rolled through and she calmly stalled but started right up.

- Coasting: At 20mph or so a smooth stall, pulled over and started up again

- Crusing: Same as above


- Acceleration: Same as above

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Yes
-Oil pressure gauge:Yes
-Tachometer:Yes
-Fuel Gauge:Yes
-Alternator Gauge:Yes
-Abs light:Yes
-Srs light:Yes
-Engine light:Yes
-O2 sensor light:Yes
-all the other light :Yes
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

She has only stalled on two consecutive days and day 3 no start, first day I rolled through a stop sign and she calmly and quietly shut off, I rolled to a stop and started her up as normal. Second day while doing about 20mph she simply and quietly shut down, pulled over and started as normal. NOW day 3 she is parked and will not start.

-At a certain outside temp(specify): winter in NY average 40 F

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?: No
Engine Temp when stalling: Normal

Outside Temp when Stalling: Winter in NY average 40 F

Fuel gauge reading: Normal

Alternator's reading: Not sure

Ac/Heater on or off: Off

Heated seat on or off: N/A

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

The first two (days) times it stalled she started as if normal, the next day (3) sitting over night she does not start

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM): Yes between 5-10
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): No, steady RPM, as above

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after: Does not apply

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N/A

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N/A

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem? This fact sheet

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

OVP, Voltage Regulator (had fluctuations and blew OVP fuse), cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, just had the time and the parts. This was all replaced prior to stalling.


Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

No

How long since you fixe-it?

Did not fix, still can’t get car to start.

Comment:

I did notice after stalling the battery light was on? Could this be a failed or failing alternator, I did have to place the voltage regulator (located on alternator) about 300 miles ago because she broke down on me and blew the OVP fuse. So I replaced the Voltage regulator and OVP. She ran fine up to now. Possible coil? Vacuum leak?

I pulled out the fuel pump relay, wire jumped #7+8 and heard fuel flow and she started right up. I previously dismiss the fuel pump relay as the SSS cause because I replaced it last year. I guess I'll try the old fuel pump relay I still have that I replaced if not order a new one. Goes to show new parts go bad don't be so quick to ignore a step in diagnosis because you replaced that part already, like me..
JD

I fixed a stalling problem in my 300TE the other day, that was a bad connection to the Throttle Position Sensor.

__________________
600SEL '91
300E 4Matic '88
240D '83
280SE '77
350SE '73
The most complex systems can fail in the simplest way.
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