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  #1  
Old 08-30-2007, 11:15 PM
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The races, from what I recall, were in fact slippery. They looked like they offered a "lip" to catch, but the problem is that the lip is just part of the rounded race. However, although the screwdriver would keep slipping off when I pounded it, I kept at it, and somehow after about a half hour of seemingly useless pounding, it came out. I still don't know how it came out.
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  #2  
Old 08-30-2007, 11:25 PM
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmercoleza View Post
The races, from what I recall, were in fact slippery. They looked like they offered a "lip" to catch, but the problem is that the lip is just part of the rounded race. However, although the screwdriver would keep slipping off when I pounded it, I kept at it, and somehow after about a half hour of seemingly useless pounding, it came out. I still don't know how it came out.
Thanks. That is exactly what I plan to do tomorrow. It seems to be quite stuck in place.

I plan to will use a Dremel cutting disc to try and cut a flat ledge for the screwdriver. That might help things a bit.
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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2007, 07:50 AM
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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Success!

After my last post, I sprayed around the race with WD40 and left it alone. This morning, after less than 20 taps with a hammer and screwdriver, it came right out.
__________________
2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2007, 04:08 PM
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Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 1,322
This repair when well. Should anyone be interested, here is what is involved.

Tools
  • 16mm Socket (to loosen/tighten belt tensioner)
  • 13mm Socket (loosen/tighten pump bolts)
  • 1.25” Socket or other Drift to push bearing out of pulley
  • Rubber Mallet (to hammer out bearing)
  • Screwdriver, Carpenters Hammer and WD40 (In case bearing has disintegrated).
  • Brake Parts Cleaner
  • Retaining Ring Pliers to remove retainer ring on pump shaft
  • Electrical Tape (to repair inevitable damage to pump wire insulation.

Parts
Double Row Radial Ball Bearing, Both Sides Rubber Sealed.
ID:32 mm x OD:52 mm x W: od 18 mm + id 20 mm

BearingsDirect.com
Part# 32BG05S18G-2DS
$18.99 + shipping

Note: These are the same parts sold on eBay, without the 100%+ markup. One seller uses the exact descriptive language that BearingsDirect does.

Remove Pump From Car

Remove Air Filter Housing
  1. Remove filter cover and Filter.

  2. Lift out the cover in front of the air filter housing, and directly behind the passenger headlight.

  3. Remove the nut on the top rear left of the air filter housing, attached to the wiper fluid reservoir. It holds a rubber wedge that keeps the air filter housing in place.

  4. Remove the housing by pulling up from the rear, then front. It is held in place by two plastic nipples on its bottom, which insert into two rubber “Doohickies” (Don’t know the correct term.)

Remove Fan Shroud
  1. Pull out plastic clip on top of the circular ring part of the shroud, and tilt it against the fan blade to make room for the main shroud to be removed.

  2. Slide off the two metal clips securing main shroud: one plainly visible on the left of the shroud, and the other on the right of the shroud, abut about an inch or two lower. Lift this shroud up and out, and then the circular ring.

Loosen Serpentine Belt
  • Rotate the tensioning pulley clockwise with an 16mm socket to release tension on belt. (Note: My car is late 95 E320. Your vehicle may differ.)

Remove Air Pump
  1. Remove electrical connector to the pump. On the 95E320, it is behind the black protective cover at the front of the engine. Just trace the wire from the pump. There is a cylindrical rubber “bumper” (don’t know term) that you must slide off its post in order to move the connector from its nook. There are actually two of these. Remove the upper one.

  2. Remove molded rubber hose from the rear of the pump. It uses a spring-type clamp that must be compressed. It twists off easily with pliers, but is a challenge to get back on unless you have the right tool for it (which I did NOT).

  3. Remove the coolant tube that runs along the left side (facing forward) of the pump. Just detach it where it connects below the overflow coolant tank & washer fluid reservoirs.

  4. Remove the upper Pump bolt, which is long. Then the lower bolt, which is short. If you have one of those skinny sockets, use it, as you will be working between the fan blades, and a thinner socket will be a bit easier. You will also need an adapter/extension to get at the lower bolt, if you leave the fan attached for this job.

Step Two: Replace Failed Bearing

Remove & Replace Pulley/Bearing
  1. Remove front nut.
    This was a challenge. I had do use a C-Clamp to lock the clutch in place. Once off, the clutch lifts right out.

  2. Remove locking ring holding the pulley in place.

  3. Slide bearing and pulley from shaft.

  4. Use 1.25” drift to hammer old bearing out.

    NOTE: If the bearing has disintegrated, and the inner race and ball bearings have fallen out (or have been removed) the outer ring will be stuck in place. Turn pulley front-side down, soak the edges of the outer ring (of the stuck bearing) with WD40, and find something else to do for a few hours.

    When you return, use a screwdriver and carpenters hammer to strike, obliquely, at the outer race. Tap a few times, then rotate the pulley 30 degrees or so. If your experience was like mine, you will not complete a 360 degree rotation before the outer race is dislodged. This will be easier if you use a Dremel tool and cutting discs to grind away those six tiny retaining tabs that somewhat helped hold the original bearing in place.

  5. Clean the pulley and place in oven at 400 degrees. Put new bearing in freezer. (Credit to MercedesShop member Brewtoo for this). After 30 minutes or so, remove pulley and bearing and slide bearing into place.

    Note: I prepped the pulley surface by lightly sanding with the Dremel and sanding drum. I also sprayed a spot of WD40 on my finger and rubbed it around the periphery of the bearing when I removed it from the freezer. The bearing slid smoothly into place, after which I shock-cooled the pulley under the kitchen sink tap. Bearing was solidly in place.

  6. Slide Pulley/bearing onto shaft.

  7. Replace locking ring.

  8. Replace air pump in car.
__________________
2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

Last edited by EricSilver; 08-31-2007 at 04:14 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2007, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: AL
Posts: 1,219
Very nice, Eric.
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