OK, I jumped 12v+ from battery to the x49/2 and the car started right up. What is the next step after this. I really am appreciative with all of this help you are giving me. Thanks a million

Jumped 12+ to the x49/2 terminal and the car started right up. Where does that leave us? What is my next diagnostic test? I really am appreciate with all of this help. THanks

I don't know if I am ahead opf myself, but I went ahead and pulled the dash cluster, and jumped pins 87 and 30 with a piece of copper wire, and then put the relay back into the car. The car would not start up. Was this the next logical step or did I skip something? THanks

OK..
That verifies NSS circuit is OK.
If you look at the schematic I posted for you, you will see what we are doing is working backwards from the X27 terminal under the hood..so, we now know you have a bad K38 or bad Ignition sw.
You will notice on the schem. that there is a section marked CDN ..note that jumpers out the K38 circuit b/c they have no K38 interlock feature.
So, you now have to get to K38 and jumper 1 and 3 just like the CND version does.

BUT..as I stated ..first check that $5 fuse on BOTH sides for power b/c if there is none on one side , then K38 will not be held IN and the starter circuit will NOT WORK..so, kindly check that FIRST before pulling cluster.

You are getting ahead of my instructions..give me time to type..

OK
With relay out of car, test for 12v w/test lamp at pin 87 of relay plug as you turn key to starter position

OK, I checked the #5 fuse for 12v, and with the ignition on, I got 12v above and below the fuse, so that looks good. I then checked pin 87(#3) on the connector, and turned the ignition on, and did not get 12V. So it seems pin 87 is not getting power. What is my next step?

..with the key turned to Start ????????????????????????
Not RUN..we need START for this test.

Yes with the key is the start position, still nothing. The problem must be further down the line I am guessing since pin 87 is not getting power.

Does START position = engine on position OR cranking position?

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14

I tried them both in the on position and in the start/cranking position.

OK

That points to bad start position contactor bar in the Ignition sw.
Put your test lamp back on socket 87 and ground,,then turn to Start position and wiggle the key ..try several times and see what you get..

Also , do you get High Blower when set to Defrost??

Start position is Starter circuit , of course..
RUN position is Ignition activation ONLY......................................

NOTE

Make sure you are not at pin 87a...we want # 87 , which is Vi/#1 , coming from ignition switch
[Look at schematic]

Yes I tested #87, top row, middle. I got no change when I put the ignition to start. Does this mean it is an ignition switch problem. BTW, I do not know if this makes any difference, but before all of this happened, if the temperature outside was above 85 F, the turn signals would not work. I don't know if one has to do with the other, but too much information can't hurt. When all is said and done, PM your home address, I will have to send you a gift from NYC....Thanks again

One other thing, when I jumped the x49/2 connector, and the car started, couldn't I put i switch wired directly from the battery there, and start the car that way. OF course the key would have to be in the ignition to unlock the steering. Just a thought.