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#31
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<
That is why I ask you to try Blower motor..that is just a trick I use to test that we have Bat power to the ignition switch before we go take that all apart... if we have blower , then we have Ignition sw feed from ALT/BAT MAIN feed .. I need that question answered... |
#32
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Quote:
Yes ..I have seen guys do that b/c they had a bad ign sw starter circuit section...I even had a guy that would open the hood everytime and stick a jumper into the original x27 plug after I showed him how to do the test at the firewall...not my style, but he never did change the ign sw.... Prob still like that.... The key still has to be used b/c the other bus bars in the sw activate the RUN positions [ ecu/ign/etc] You are simply jumping 12v to the Starter with the test I have mentioned. The k38 relay and the NSS only interupt the starter circuit............ The x27 firewall jumper terminal is a good piece of info to know if your car happens to get a NSS breakdown in the middle of Nowheresville at 3 in the AM..that trick will get you Home before the Homies get your car............. Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 09-06-2007 at 03:30 PM. |
#33
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OK, i just put ignition to the ON position and the blower works fine. Whats he next culprit.
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#34
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I would rather fix it the correct way, but sometimes it is too expensive or complex.
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#35
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Quote:
Ignition sw |
#36
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Note...
I just ran through your post and noticed on post #21 you have pin 87 listed as teminal #3 for voltage test...Pin 87 should be term.#1 , not 3....verify that as a typo before we continue as that would throw a wrench in the test procedure for ignition sw test............... http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=21H0MN3YU26A0YL2Y3&year=1995&make=MB&model=E-320-001&category=M&part=Ignition+Switch Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 09-06-2007 at 04:13 PM. |
#37
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Sorry for the confusion, yes I tested pin #1 top row left side. Again no change when I put the car in the on position or the start position. Sorry for the mixup.
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#38
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Violet wire , correct?
That is the feed from ign sw, so that would be the suspect...did you try the key On/Off/Wiggle trick while you had a test lamp on the vilet wire terminal???????? |
#39
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No I did not try that yet, but I went ahead and ordered the new ignition switch. The problem I talked about before with the turn signals not working above 85 F. Would that have to do with the ignition switch as well? Just curious. Also where is the ignition switch, right behind the ignition? Finally please PM me your name and address, I really would like to send you something from NYC. I really do appreciate the time and effort you have given me.
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#40
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http://dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm
This DIY has good pics ot the assembly. Of course you won't have to do any cutting. You will not need to remove the tumbler... just keep the key in position 1 to: 1) keep the steering lock from engaging 2) keep the security pin retracted and 3) keep the lock on the ignition wiring harness disengaged. There are three screws on the back side of the ignition switch (conceled by the wiring harness plug) that secure it to the steering lock assembly.
__________________
-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14 |
#41
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Thanks for the information. I thought this was going to be easy........lol.......I will wait until I have a few hours free time to attempt this. Thanks again everyone.
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