I have tried the search but can't find anything about this problem. My 84 500SEL has been using oil at about 1 qt/1000 miles. I know this is not bad but the car started skipping at idle and I found #8 plug was oil fouled. I replaced the plug and all was well. Well I couldn't accept this so I started doing an investigation and found that #8 intake valve guide was loose in the head. Has anyone had/seen this problem and is there any easy fix short of replacing the head? This car is in very good condition and needs to be fixed but I can't see spendig a $1000+ because of the mileage (and I don't have that kind of money right now). Any words of encouragement?
Thanks

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Very common problem on that early engine. MB does offer 2 repair sizes of valve guide & I have installed 100's of them through the years.

Have even seen people install 1 guide on the engine as a temporary repair.

The standard guide is a couple ten-thousands larger than the ones in the engine from the factory. OF course a good machine shop can turn down one of the repair sizes to the correct size for the diameter of the OD bore of the guide.

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Does the head have to come off?

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

you can replace a guide or two without pulling the head but the cam and bearings have to come off and the likelyhood of some of the others needing the same thing right after you go thru the procedure is right up there with murphy's law.

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David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
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I doubt very much that replacing the guide without removing the head will give a satifactory result. You might get lucky; but usually the new valve guide, when installed, is not concentric with the valve seat, resulting in a compression leak and the need to remove the head an re-grind the valve seat.

Well, I borrowed a hand made tool to install the guide without removing the cam. I then used a center punch to put 3 rings of 6 punches each on the outside of the guide. Cleaned the head and guide, coated the guide with lock-tight and installed in the head with the borrowed tool. I installed the valve spring and then hit the top of the valve several times (again using a handmade tool). Installed the adjustment shim and rocker. Waited about 2 or 3 hours, restarted and the engine was as smooth as ever.I was given this procedure by an old MB mechanic who said he has know engines to run another 100K or more and never having any more problems. He also said sometimes it doesn't work. I guess I was just lucky for a change. I have another set of heads with bent valve that I am going to rebuild and keep in stock, just in case I need them. Thanks for all the responses.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)