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  #16  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:19 AM
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Stinkin 2 pin electrical is right there
so its very suspect
but changing it back
would think the housing hoses are different

this sits vertical not horizontal

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=48774&d=1192686587



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  #17  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlies84380SE View Post
Would being a Euro cause it to have the airslide instead of the ICV? but you have an ICV connection in your wiring loom too. HMMM!
No Euro's ( I have two here) are fully electronic .In my experience it is only 380's which had the old style of airslide.USA may have been different ,but i doubt it.
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
No Euro's ( I have two here) are fully electronic .In my experience it is only 380's which had the old style of airslide.USA may have been different ,but i doubt it.
What about 82 euro?

I looked up usa 82 380 part
has the electronic part w 2 pin
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
Stinkin 2 pin electrical is right there
so its very suspect
but changing it back
would think the housing hoses are different

this sits vertical not horizontal

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=48774&d=1192686587

To complicate matters,the black rubber fittings are entirely different .the method of actuating the various vacuum functions are different ,so is the throttle body.
The Warm up regulator ( that device to the right of the airslide ) is also different to the electronic airslide.
If the airslide is the only thing to have been changed ,you are in luck...almost.
I am beginning to think your hot start problems are tied to this bodge with the warm up regulator not being connected properly.
I have just had a quick look at one in the shop I am tuning and it has also been bodged exactly the same way. The control box for the idle is still in it's correct place though.
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
What about 82 euro?

I looked up usa 82 380 part
has the electronic part w 2 pin
what is the first 6 numbers of your VIN? .
I had a 1983 high compression 380,semi euro engine,which had the heat controlled airslide. Heat controlled setups need the vacuum change over valve and the corresponding ignition distributor to function properly. you are getting into a lot of mucking about when you feel you need to install those. Easier to put up with higher idle in park.
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2007, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
what is the first 6 numbers of your VIN? .
I had a 1983 high compression 380,semi euro engine,which had the heat controlled airslide. Heat controlled setups need the vacuum change over valve and the corresponding ignition distributor to function properly. you are getting into a lot of mucking about when you feel you need to install those. Easier to put up with higher idle in park.
Thanks for your insight
I appreciate it
This has been sort of a daunting mystery

Hey its Saturday evening in Brisbane!

Well have to look at the scope of it
why did they go thru all the trouble of changing all those things

thanks for the engine pic
I;ll llook it over

my vin starts
wdb126044

my wur is from FRANCE????

its hooked up funny
now hooked up eaven funnier as one of the thermo vac valve behind it
2 back there red 50 C is broken

odd all those things them copntrolled

I got alot of pics as I went thru this car from day one
running a 60 page thread on figuring out this car

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=197661&page=59

It was owned since 87 by a wealthy Dr in Malibu
It was then donated
I can't see him butchering it

Attached Thumbnails
Idle problem seems to be fixed!-mbbackwur.jpg  
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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 01:14 AM.
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2007, 02:21 AM
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I would say his mechanic has done this,as quicky patch up. but it's far easier to repair the system properly!.
Your VIN is a 500 SEC.so it should have the electronic idle control.
Do you have the diagrams for the vacuum lines to WUR?.It's pretty important that it's connected in the correct fashion because warm up ,aceleration and general running depend on it. All of the WUR's are stamped made in france. The last three numbers of the part number should be 101. it must also have two lower connections and one large top connection.
I see from your pic that the plug leads are looking old, if you have access to a multimeter,check the resistance from cap to plug end. They are very sensitive to correct plugs and good leads.Another reason your car will be hard to start when hot.
You also have the rubber cover over the distributor cap. LOSE IT! Mercedes don't even list that as a part anymore because of the problems it causes.
Everything from moisture getting trapped under it,to dirt causing static electricity causing spark leakage.

Last edited by mercmad6.3; 10-20-2007 at 02:28 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2007, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
I would say his mechanic has done this,as quicky patch up. but it's far easier to repair the system properly!.
Your VIN is a 500 SEC.so it should have the electronic idle control.
Do you have the diagrams for the vacuum lines to WUR?.It's pretty important that it's connected in the correct fashion because warm up ,aceleration and general running depend on it. All of the WUR's are stamped made in france. The last three numbers of the part number should be 101. it must also have two lower connections and one large top connection.
I see from your pic that the plug leads are looking old, if you have access to a multimeter,check the resistance from cap to plug end. They are very sensitive to correct plugs and good leads.Another reason your car will be hard to start when hot.
You also have the rubber cover over the distributor cap. LOSE IT! Mercedes don't even list that as a part anymore because of the problems it causes.
Everything from moisture getting trapped under it,to dirt causing static electricity causing spark leakage.
I'm all for repairing the problem correctly
esp if its easier!
\

I just replsced the distributor cap & rotor
cap I got is same as one on it...???

The euro is a beast
I hope that I got the correct one

I don;t have ;east I dont think I have a rubber cap on distributor cap.

I have bought NGK BP5Es plugs & bosch prem ignit wires
& I am going to have a mechanic change

I;m no mechanic
but got the distrib cap & rotor done

I have been changing out old vacuuum lines on WUR & anywhere I can

the WUR
has 3 vac hses
one on top which goes to a port off the thermo ICV
one in front I cant trace
& one in back that leads to a t vac hose that the bottom of goes into a 50C thermp vac awitch
thern goes to back intake manifold
the other line on the double TVV goes to that quad hose in front
which one leg goes to distributor valve another to that yellow & green air inject valve which leads into intake manifold

I rteplace most of the vac hoses
some were cracked or broken & thet yeloow green valve was discionnected

Now that I broke the TVV
I have connected that loop together & bypassed the tvv

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=48703&d=1192412309

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=48698&d=1192408159
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83 500 SEC Euro 198K

Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 03:51 AM.
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  #24  
Old 10-20-2007, 03:14 AM
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Thanks I really appreciate your opinion on this
You seem to have knowledge on it
& I thank you for any leads you can offer to try to get my 500 sec
back in form!!!!
\


Here;s my house in NSW
Built I think in 40's out od iron bark
Well my parents...

Wish I was there sometimes...

Dads Yute

Thing its got some strange start problem too
Attached Thumbnails
Idle problem seems to be fixed!-nook34.jpg   Idle problem seems to be fixed!-aussieyute.jpg   Idle problem seems to be fixed!-matildantwins31.jpg  
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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 03:32 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-20-2007, 03:43 AM
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Night to you in Brisbane
Spent a few days at coronation hotel off the river in 86
then rented a room in a house in 86 while I looked for a house for my parents
Found the farm &
they emigrated from NY.

Was back in 94 for 3 glorious weeks
just love the land & the farm
not like the city!

Brisbane is nice
but hot & sticky in summer
Its actually a small town for a :"big" town

I vistied the zoo then wnet up to Stanthrope

& then down the gold coast

ooooh
the forest up there
& the lightning storms
& the sky at night full of stars

OOOOh

Anyway I wish you a real nice weekend & I look foward to your ideas on getting this great car back in shape!!!\\\\\

Thanks so much

Night!

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Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 03:52 AM.
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  #26  
Old 10-20-2007, 05:40 AM
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Ahhh, so you know this hot and sticky town!.You will understand why we value our Aircon!!
There is NO way you would recognise this place since the 1990's.It has changed enormously since 2000. Mainly due to the resources boom,Queensland is (allegedly ) rolling in the cash. It hasn't rained much since 2001 so the humidity and big storms we had every spring have become a thing of the past.
So washing cars has become illegal ...if you get caught it's big fines.
You mention the Coronation Hotel..did you mean the Regatta on Coronation Drive? .You can't stay there now,it's become a trendy watering hole for the rich young things who live the Toowong area.Coronation drive has become a traffic choked nightmare .
Your parents live an idilic life style.The house appears to be 1800-1900's vintage. I restored one similar in the late 1980's in Glen Innes,northern NSW.
Cheers! i'll check this Euro 500 in the workshop and post up just exactly where your vacuum leads need to be.All these cars a different!.
This weekend is Indy weekend so the Gold Coast is place to avoid
http://www.indy.com.au/
I've been spending a lot of time on all these forums in the last few days trying to find info on a 500SEC I'm tuning for a customer...and I've spent more time replying to questions...LOL!!!
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  #27  
Old 10-20-2007, 02:41 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
Ahhh, so you know this hot and sticky town!.You will understand why we value our Aircon!!
There is NO way you would recognise this place since the 1990's.It has changed enormously since 2000. Mainly due to the resources boom,Queensland is (allegedly ) rolling in the cash. It hasn't rained much since 2001 so the humidity and big storms we had every spring have become a thing of the past.
So washing cars has become illegal ...if you get caught it's big fines.
You mention the Coronation Hotel..did you mean the Regatta on Coronation Drive? .You can't stay there now,it's become a trendy watering hole for the rich young things who live the Toowong area.Coronation drive has become a traffic choked nightmare .
Your parents live an idilic life style.The house appears to be 1800-1900's vintage. I restored one similar in the late 1980's in Glen Innes,northern NSW.
Cheers! i'll check this Euro 500 in the workshop and post up just exactly where your vacuum leads need to be.All these cars a different!.
This weekend is Indy weekend so the Gold Coast is place to avoid
http://www.indy.com.au/
I've been spending a lot of time on all these forums in the last few days trying to find info on a 500SEC I'm tuning for a customer...and I've spent more time replying to questions...LOL!!!
Wow, there is a 500 SEC in Brisbane...


Coronation was on the river
I had a room that looked out on it
It was $95 a day then so after 2 or 3 days I rented a room in a house in Brisbane for about 2 days in a hotel I got 2 weeks...LOL


I walked along the river into town..remember Queen St
Had a friend who had a music shop around there in the late 80's.

Glen Innes is not that far we are a little more north in the mountains by Tenterfeild...Yep its an old town
One of the first towns!!!! but don't think the house is that old...
but there are some in town late 1800's

No rush on the vac advice but I would really appreciate your insight on trying to get this car back into better form thought its running ok
cept for the hi cold idle which doesn't bother me & the hard warm/hot starts which is a pain..

I really have to figure out what to do with the ICV to make it run best.
If its just the ICV maybe get the correct one & the tubing...

So is that the 500 SEC apart?

Cool!
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  #28  
Old 10-20-2007, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad6.3 View Post
To complicate matters,the black rubber fittings are entirely different .the method of actuating the various vacuum functions are different ,so is the throttle body.
The Warm up regulator ( that device to the right of the airslide ) is also different to the electronic airslide.
If the airslide is the only thing to have been changed ,you are in luck...almost.
I am beginning to think your hot start problems are tied to this bodge with the warm up regulator not being connected properly.
I have just had a quick look at one in the shop I am tuning and it has also been bodged exactly the same way. The control box for the idle is still in it's correct place though.
Is this the 500 sec you are tuning?
yours has the airslide valve
I see it
also the green yellow valve
is that a air inject valve

mine has the green end toward front of engine
not sure if there is a front & back to that valve???
but thats the way mine came

Thats valve had a bad hose & was disconected when I got the car
so I got a new hose & connected it to the port out of the intake

That car you have looks like mine
what year 500 sec is it????

Why does it also have the air icv like mine?

Why do you say it orig comes with a electronic?
it seems the 500 sec you are working on is set up like mine

Wouldn't that seem our 2 engines may have been made like this?

This is really interesting



I also have that saem red patch on that wire
its exact
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  #29  
Old 10-20-2007, 08:59 PM
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Ok first thins first..Good morning!
Tenterfeild is a nice little town, and the history between Glen innes is really interesting too,the Gay Singer and one time husband of Liza Minelli ,the late Peter Allen came from there.It was also where Australia become a sovreign Nation instead of a collection of seperate colonies.
Glen Innes was the home of several Famous Australian Authors,Including Ruth Parks whose husbands works included the Peter Finch Movie ." The Shiralee" .

Now to Business.
These cars ALL came with the electronic idle control.
This one I am working on now has been bodged like yours.
The Warm up regulator should be connected so that the Front lower port is connected to the Throttle switch on the throttle body.
The correct port is on the (your) passenger side of the throttle (it's down under the large airflow meter thing) .
If you shine a light down there you will see a white plasti device with three hoses leading off. the top hose is the connection for the front port on the warm up regulator.
The Port on the rear( at the bottom) of the WUR is connected to the left hand thermo switch device directly behind the WUR. ( you should have two of those,left and right) .
This must have a large black plastic hose with a rubber tee which then connects to a port half way along the intake manifold.

On top of the WUR is a hose which connects to the large black hoses feeding into the intake airmeter from the Airslide device.

Now...on the opposite of the throttle body ( your drivers side) are two ports .The top port must be connected to the EGR valve.thats the big device on the drivers side exhaust manifold.
The lower port is connected to the Vacuum switch,thats the metal device mounted to the left hand fender .It has one plastic line and one electrical leading into it.

The other plastic leads come from the white plastic device of the passenger side of the throttle body.On the underside of the switch where you cannot see them ( ) are two ports.
The lower one ,connects to a 4 port rubber connector.
The upper connects to line running from the engine to the point on the firewall where it connects to a reservoir.This a long line,around 4 feet in length.

The 4 port connector is connected to the intake by the green/white one way valve.the green side is faced towards the manifold.
one lead from the 4 port connector is to the ditributor.
one leads to the left hand switch behind the WUR>

The right hand switch activates the EGR so it's not important that it's connected ( well..not here anyway)
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  #30  
Old 10-20-2007, 09:27 PM
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Here are three pics showing the throttle body and where the vacuum ports are located. In the first pic the upper throttle body is the type you should have.
the middle pic shows the white plastic device on the left side of the throttle body and how it connects.
the third is a sketch showing how the four way rubber connector is installed.
Attached Thumbnails
Idle problem seems to be fixed!-img063.jpg   Idle problem seems to be fixed!-img064.jpg   Idle problem seems to be fixed!-img065.jpg  

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