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  #16  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
Ouch
Not on a 25 year old M117.

I wonder how close Delvac 1 is to the 5w40 Mobil 1 that the dealers now use? On an 07 that may be an issue. I know they just changed Delvac 1 so its safe to use on the latest diesels with the all their emissions goodies.

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  #17  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Not on a 25 year old M117.

I wonder how close Delvac 1 is to the 5w40 Mobil 1 that the dealers now use? On an 07 that may be an issue. I know they just changed Delvac 1 so its safe to use on the latest diesels with the all their emissions goodies.
I am supposed to have a high compression euro engine
so it does need thick oil
& it runs hot

Engine top at least looks pretty clean
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2007, 01:06 AM
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I'm kind of surprised the M104 is ticking though, how many miles? My friend has a 97 S320 and his is smooth as silk. 80k miles, I don't know what the PO was using but he has been using Mobil 1 0w40 for the past 10k miles. The M104 is a really nice motor!
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Last edited by Hatterasguy; 10-20-2007 at 01:11 AM.
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2007, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
I am supposed to have a high compression euro engine
so it does need thick oil
& it runs hot

Engine top at least looks pretty clean

I don't think the euro specs change anything oil wise. I would recommend the synthetic especially if you have ticking hydraulic valve adjusters. (they actually are not lifters).

If you are running hot that is not likely an oil related issue and should be sorted out.

Now in my 280e (with mechanical lifters) euro, I was running 10w30 moblil one and caught a slight knock on start up that I suspected was bearing knock from the thin oil running off the bearings, so I switched to 20w50 castrol and that stopped.

Different oils for different motors. You have to be careful. The newer oils don't always work in the older engines.

Synthetics are no panacea.

Tom W
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2007, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I don't think the euro specs change anything oil wise. I would recommend the synthetic especially if you have ticking hydraulic valve adjusters. (they actually are not lifters).

If you are running hot that is not likely an oil related issue and should be sorted out.

Now in my 280e (with mechanical lifters) euro, I was running 10w30 moblil one and caught a slight knock on start up that I suspected was bearing knock from the thin oil running off the bearings, so I switched to 20w50 castrol and that stopped.

Different oils for different motors. You have to be careful. The newer oils don't always work in the older engines.

Synthetics are no panacea.

Tom W
It's running 90 95 now so its in line
has new thermostat
that didn't help it any
then a new radiator

that brought temp down
as it used to run up close to redliine

The engine doesnt look dirty of slugdy
so its been maintained

will have to look into it as its not a new engine & might not be good to change its diet...

Thanks


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  #21  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:36 AM
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There's 125k on the odometer, but the odo has been changed at some point. (It has digital odometer & trip meter - no '92 140 I've ever seen has that). I'd like to think the change was by a dealer and was on the up-and-up, but who knows.

T Walgamuth is correct - my terminology is dated from my ohv-engine days. I think the car received less-than-ideal care from the PO-1. I bought it for a song from a good friend who bought it from them when they popped the serpentine belt and overheated it enough to blow the headgasket.

The mechanic that did the rebuild of the upper portion of the engine said he replaced "some" of the hydraulic valve adjusters (to properly identify the items) - I know they're not cheap (probably $25-30+ each wholesale) but for the effort to get to them, and if "some" of them needed replacing - why not replace the lot??? Such is the story of this car...

They only tick at startup, so they're leaking down. I'm not as concerned about the leakdown of several as I am about the single lifter that doesn't pump up readily (sometimes). Things like this don't tend to heal themselves, and eventually, that lifter will fail to pressure up at all, and the constant banging against the cam lobe will damage the camshaft - which is what I'm wanting to avoid.
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2007, 12:32 PM
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How hard are they do get on on the M104? I changed all them on my 603 and it was pretty easy. You have to lock the timing chain to the sprocket, than unbolt the cam. Once the cam is out you can pull them out on the 603 with a magnet. The M104 has two cams so I'm not sure what that would change.
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  #23  
Old 10-21-2007, 12:35 PM
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Pretty hard - most of a day's work, but the job is the same. Just have to be careful to properly re-align the VVT on the intake side when reassembling.

I can handle the job, it's just I don't have a spare day in my calendar for quite some time.

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