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  #1  
Old 10-18-2007, 10:13 AM
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lifters ticking

'92 300SE. Sometimes as short as overnight, others it takes a day or so, but eventually, several of the valve lifters leak down and I get a ticka-ticka-ticka sound at startup.

All but one of the ticking lifters are fully silenced by the time the oil pressure hits 3 on the gauge - maybe 2-3 seconds after startup.

One persistent beggar will tick for some time afterwards, but once there's a little heat in the motor, he's quiet, too.

I run Castrol 20W-50 and change it regularly.

My mechanic suggests I try an oil treatment like seafoam on a couple of cycles to see if we can clean out what is probably some coking of the oil around the check-balls in the lifters.

Car runs fine, smooth at idle, etc.

I'd like to avoid paying probably $1500 to have the lifters replaced. I can do the work myself, but I simply don't have the time.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2007, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrian63 View Post
'92 300SE. Sometimes as short as overnight, others it takes a day or so, but eventually, several of the valve lifters leak down and I get a ticka-ticka-ticka sound at startup.

All but one of the ticking lifters are fully silenced by the time the oil pressure hits 3 on the gauge - maybe 2-3 seconds after startup.

One persistent beggar will tick for some time afterwards, but once there's a little heat in the motor, he's quiet, too.

I run Castrol 20W-50 and change it regularly.

My mechanic suggests I try an oil treatment like seafoam on a couple of cycles to see if we can clean out what is probably some coking of the oil around the check-balls in the lifters.

Car runs fine, smooth at idle, etc.

I'd like to avoid paying probably $1500 to have the lifters replaced. I can do the work myself, but I simply don't have the time.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards
MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) silenced my noisy lifters. I put 1/2 quart in the crankcase, and a quart or so in the gas tank. It took a few days but it made a difference.
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  #3  
Old 10-19-2007, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrian63 View Post
'92 300SE. Sometimes as short as overnight, others it takes a day or so, but eventually, several of the valve lifters leak down and I get a ticka-ticka-ticka sound at startup.

All but one of the ticking lifters are fully silenced by the time the oil pressure hits 3 on the gauge - maybe 2-3 seconds after startup.

One persistent beggar will tick for some time afterwards, but once there's a little heat in the motor, he's quiet, too.

I run Castrol 20W-50 and change it regularly.

My mechanic suggests I try an oil treatment like seafoam on a couple of cycles to see if we can clean out what is probably some coking of the oil around the check-balls in the lifters.

Car runs fine, smooth at idle, etc.

I'd like to avoid paying probably $1500 to have the lifters replaced. I can do the work myself, but I simply don't have the time.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards
I have read some suggesting to use Mobil 1 synthetic.
My SEC has 237,000 and tics too. Well, it did. I tried synthetic right after I got the car to clean it out. Boy does this stuff clean!
Then after 7000 miles or so I went back to my regular high mileage oil.

I noticed the ticking had returned. So I am currently using Mobil 1 15wt 50.

$8.00 a quart is a little stiff to handle, but this stuff really works.
Ticking gone again.
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2007, 02:23 AM
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Heck if it works
great
Sure beats a engine rebuild...

Might even try it myself...

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  #5  
Old 10-19-2007, 05:46 AM
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I had that trouble with my 84 500sec when I first got it. I put rotella in it. I switched to mobil one 10w30 and it went away. Thinking it was cleaned out I went back to rotella and it came back. Then I switched to mobil one permanently. I ran the mobil one a bit longer and the money thing worked out about equal.

Tom W
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2007, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I had that trouble with my 84 500sec when I first got it. I put rotella in it. I switched to mobil one 10w30 and it went away. Thinking it was cleaned out I went back to rotella and it came back. Then I switched to mobil one permanently. I ran the mobil one a bit longer and the money thing worked out about equal.

Tom W
Why use a lighter oil?
don't specs go 20W50 on hi mile engines?
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2007, 02:23 PM
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20W50 is extremely heavy, I don't see why you would run it in any car.

Try some synthetic 5w40, see if that doesn't clear them up. I know Delvac 1 helped the lifters on my 603 a lot.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:08 PM
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Be careful using diesel rated lube oils in gas engines. Some of the additives can foul the cat.
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:18 PM
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Ouch
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
Ouch
Not on a 25 year old M117.

I wonder how close Delvac 1 is to the 5w40 Mobil 1 that the dealers now use? On an 07 that may be an issue. I know they just changed Delvac 1 so its safe to use on the latest diesels with the all their emissions goodies.
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  #11  
Old 10-19-2007, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Not on a 25 year old M117.

I wonder how close Delvac 1 is to the 5w40 Mobil 1 that the dealers now use? On an 07 that may be an issue. I know they just changed Delvac 1 so its safe to use on the latest diesels with the all their emissions goodies.
I am supposed to have a high compression euro engine
so it does need thick oil
& it runs hot

Engine top at least looks pretty clean
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2007, 01:06 AM
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I'm kind of surprised the M104 is ticking though, how many miles? My friend has a 97 S320 and his is smooth as silk. 80k miles, I don't know what the PO was using but he has been using Mobil 1 0w40 for the past 10k miles. The M104 is a really nice motor!
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Last edited by Hatterasguy; 10-20-2007 at 01:11 AM.
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2007, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamelotShadow View Post
I am supposed to have a high compression euro engine
so it does need thick oil
& it runs hot

Engine top at least looks pretty clean

I don't think the euro specs change anything oil wise. I would recommend the synthetic especially if you have ticking hydraulic valve adjusters. (they actually are not lifters).

If you are running hot that is not likely an oil related issue and should be sorted out.

Now in my 280e (with mechanical lifters) euro, I was running 10w30 moblil one and caught a slight knock on start up that I suspected was bearing knock from the thin oil running off the bearings, so I switched to 20w50 castrol and that stopped.

Different oils for different motors. You have to be careful. The newer oils don't always work in the older engines.

Synthetics are no panacea.

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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