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#1
10-19-2007, 03:10 PM
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How to check relays...Should U replace?
Is there a way to check if a relay is functioning?
Whats the idea should you change relays just becasue a car has almost 200K would you say that they have served there useful life on a 25 yo car? My volvo ignit relay went at 125K I changed the OVR in the benz have a hard hot/warm start looking into fuel pump relay is that the ignition relay? I have to be carfeul as its a Euro & I have found it takes different relays. Hoping this wasn;t the case w the OVR I got... drats I suppose before we all start changing pumps & injectors it would be eise to check or replace a relay
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~Shadow~  83 500 SEC Euro 198K 
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#2
10-19-2007, 03:20 PM
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i keep an a/c, fuel pump, and ovp in the shop... change them if needed.
so far, two ovp's , one on the CE, the other on the 300e.... It was very nice to have a spare in the shop when one went...
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k  1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC]
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#3
10-19-2007, 05:10 PM
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Does say a fuel pump or ignition relay
when it gets hot relays do get hot they heat up & cool down affecting solder joints creating weak connections Its possible a hot relay might not start the car or fuel pump as well as a cold one? I never have a cold start problem but have the warm/hot start problem I found the fuel poump relay for $100 just wondering if its worth changing it whilst not knowing if mine might be fine? Still the car runs fine the relay obviously is allowing the pump to work Its probably ok as it starts cold & I don't have any fuel problems except starting the hot/warm engine that has sat./...
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-19-2007 at 06:17 PM.
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#4
10-20-2007, 12:08 PM
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cdplayer
Another area that causes warm/hot start problems are worn or dirty/plugged injectors and their respective seals. They tend to let the fuel that should be pressurized, to "leak out" when the engine is off.
I replaced everything fuel related from the rear of the car forward. Including two accumulators. Reading several posts here and trying different parts(all new) IMPROVED THINGS A LITTLE. But never really solved my persistant warm start cranking. Finally a moderator commenting on another's issue suggested actually replacing the injectors. With a second set of seals and a new set of injectors I now have instant starting hot or cold. Well, always had good cold starting. Good luck 
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 Selling used Mercedes parts on Ebay...always changing... cdplayer51 take a look! ____________
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#5
10-20-2007, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
car was used litle in least 4 years & I haven't really got to use it much either so I need to get a better handle on it befor eI start changing big $ things which right now can't sfford anyway... I probably have a wrong ICV now thats air temp operated & not electrovic so maybe its not helping things... getting daunting have to stand back & breathe... Seems it will start warm/hot ok if you re-start quick guess that means something? Thanks.. 
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-20-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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