I think I goofed Mervyn. I thought your vehicle had struts (McPherson or the like), but I guess you have springs and shocks. So disregard.

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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.

I'm surprised noone has mentioned one cause yet.

A classic groaning noise on older MBs is the idler arm. The rubber bushings dry up and make a low pitched creak/groan as the steering wheel is turned. This noise appears to come from the area in front of the passengers feet. It's only noisey as the steering wheel is actually being turned - going around a corner while holding the wheel off-center doesn't cause the noise.

To really check it out, diconnect the track rod and passenger side tie rod from the idler and check it for noise and free play.

The good news is this is a simple and inexpensive repair. I've done it once or twice myself, never paid to have it done. Parts cost is about $25 from a mail order vendor. No more than an hour of labor.

Jcyuhn,

"It's only noisey as the steering wheel is actually being turned - going around a corner while holding the wheel off-center doesn't cause the noise."

You hit the nail on the head. This is exactly how my car behaves, and the noise is indeed a low pitched creak/groan. I must go get the idler arm checked then, now at least I have another lead to follow upon.

One question though, it doesn't make any noise when turning the wheel when the car is stationary. Should this be the case, or otherwise?

Thanks pal!

Mervyn
1983 W126 (280SEL)

Jcyuhn,

Some more thoughts:

1. Should I replace only 1 idler arm assmebly or both? It's rather cheap, costs only approx. USD$9 for 1 repair kit.

2. Should I also replace both the steering dampers (steering shocks) while I'm at it? Costs approx. USD$20 each.

Cheers!

Mervyn
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On another note, are the bushings in the steering column called the "steering coupling"?

You only have one idler arm, so no need for two kits. Nine bucks sounds too inexpensive for the repair kit, but perhaps my memory is going.

As well, there's only one steering shock. Go ahead and replace it if it'll make you feel better. This shock is part of what makes a Mercedes feel like a Mercedes. They don't last forever, and are inexpensive and easy to replace.

Jcyuhn,

Pardon my ignorance, but it beats me as to why the sales guy at the part store told me there's 2 sets of idler arm repair kit (one for left and one for right). Ooops......

Many thanks, and cheers!

Mervyn
1983 W126 (280SEL)

I've come to the conclusion that old cars make funny noises, just like old people. If everything seems to work okay, just accept it as a fact of life. I make noises I didn't make ten years ago, but I only go to the doctor if something isn't working. It's good to keep your car mechanically sound, but don't be too paranoid.

Good luck

Without reading every post, I can relate my story...had a creaking EXACTLY like what you described...caused by a loose subframe and a ball joint and upper control arm that needed replacement.

The motor mounts were fine, they said, as they handed me the bill for around $1300.00.

In my case, the creaking mostly came from the sub-frame "swimming" around under the car...and yes, it creaked when I got in and sat down...(although I do have a rather intimate--260 pound--relationship with gravity).

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Tom

'87 560 SL

Hi everyone,

I had my steering damper and idler arm bush (idler arm repair kit) replaced yesterday, but the groaning sound still stays.

Now that I've been tracking this sound very closely since I posted this thread, I am able to confirm one peculiar phenomenon: it only groans when steering left (and also when returning the wheel back to center). Works perfectly alright when steering to the right, and on straight runs.

I'd my mech checked all those places you guys mentioned. Lower ball joints, tie rod ends, motor mounts, etc., all are OK. Now I'm clueless! I just cannot live with it knowing very well that the groan only surfaced recently, and this obviously points to the fact that some part/s (where???) has been worn, and due for replacement. Could it be the steering column or related? Anyone else could help me out?

For those of you keen on this problem, do follow this thread as I will post any update as soon as I have new leads.

On another note, for those who are curious as to whether it's time for them to replace their steering damper/idler arm bush, let me say this: Go do it and you'll be VERY pleasantly surprised! Trust me. My original damper has lost so much of the shock absorbant property, and the idler arm bush took a considerable amount of effort to yank it out. Must have been there for a good 18 years!! Can you imagine that? The rubber bushings have dried up, as expected. This job is quite an easy job though, very cheap too, at least for me here in Singapore. Damper cost me USD$9, and the idler arm repair kit also cost USD$9. Now the steering feels great, no longer "loose" and it wanders so much less than previously. There is much more "feel" in the steering now, it feels like new. Go do it!

Mervyn
1983 W126 (280SEL)

I HAVE THIS EXACT SAME PROBLEM! Have you found a solution yet? I am about to bring the car into the dealership on Friday at 10:30AM...

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1995 black pearl/black Mercedes-Benz E420 :

i too have that problem. creaking when the stearing wheel is turned. i got out the silicone spray and started spraying. i wasn't concerned with the silicone because i know the front end needs a rebuild. started with the inner upper control arm bushings. no change. next sprayed the sway bar bushings, the ones that are located on the fire wall, (no more creaking). the bushings look ok but they are obviously worn. as soon as the rain deminishes here in so oregon i will start the rebuild. things i will replease are ,rebuild idler arm,all tir rod ends,stearing damper,inner upper control arm bushings, all sway bar bushings,lower control arm bushings, rear drag links. all of the ball joints and track rod are good. still need to locate a coil spring compressor.

Have the same groaning too...only when the wheel is turned to the right(passenger side)..No one found out what was wrong with there cars?????

Did you read this whole thread? Posts 7, 11, 23 and 26 all found the cause of their problem. Lots of good ideas here.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Yep I did,some found out what it was and others did not.. I will have the whole front end checked & let you know what I find...Thanks again.....

These things can generally be anything. I had a clicking when turning the wheel. I put the car up on the lift and had my son rock the wheel. There was significant motion on the left tie rod. I ordered 2 new ones. It is definately bad but it may not be causing the noise.

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