I had a '94 Dodge Intrepid that had a power booster failure. It failed in such a way that it caused the brake calipers in the rear to get stuck in the braking position.

I didn't realize it was a brake failure at the time. As I was driving along, it felt like the transmission wouldn't shift into high gear.

The entire rear braking system was replaced under warranty, including the rear rims, which had actually melted.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

That is a massive brake system failure.
That came within seconds of incinerating the car.

Professional and personal opinion..

I would replace the:
* Master Cylinder
* Rear Rotors
* Rear Calipers
* New Rear Caliper mounting Bolts
* Rear Pads
* Rear Hoses
* Park Brake Shoes
* Flush the total brake system
* Sand blast the backing plates on the car and repaint

Before considering re-mounting wheels, I would need to inspect the tires and rims with EXTREME care for heat damage.
A test drive will then be needed to determine if rear wheel bearings are damaged.

i have to agree with ILUVMILS.your problem is with the master cylinder which held locked brake pressure to the rear calipers.i have seen this several times.there is no way that sufficient heat could be caused by emergency brake.you will need to replace master,brake hoses ,calipers,rotors and pads.don't think going into rear wheel bearings will be necessary.

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David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

I've seen the same failure as ILUVMILS. Seemed more common on older Benzs, particularly 123 models. Happened to my old 123.133 about 15 years ago. The piston in the master cylinder which activates the rear brakes sticks, and the rear brake system stays under pressure. General concensus is the problem occurs due to rust in the master cyclinder bores, caused by deferred brake fluid changes.

I'm surprised at the amount of damage. My spouse (why is it always the spouse?) drove the car 25 miles at highway speeds and there was not any more damage than on your 202.

Anywho, I concur with the crowd: you need a master cylinder, rear calipers, rotors, pads and hoses. Check everything else out while in there. On my 123 the plastic struts which connect the rear stabilizer bar to the hubs melted. You may have similar consequential damage.

Good luck.

- JimY

I have added the master cylinder to my replace list. I will get the hoses local. As soon as I get everything replaced I will take it for a quick spin around the block to see if the bearings were damaged. Now that I think about it, I should have poured some gasoline on the fire and stroked the flames because insurance would have covered it. hahahaha. I have a Mitsubishi Diamante that I have rebuilt the engine and done lots of work on, so I guess its time to get to know the Mercedes.

The importance of flushing the brake system completely cannot be overstated. That fluid's been boiled. You need to remove all traces of it.

I had the same thing on my 96 500sl. Replaced everything. Root cause was the brake booster hung up a little at the top of the stroke and didn't allow the fluid back into the master cylinder. I backed off on the pedal stop and is OK now.

You need calipers, pads, rotors, e-brake shoes, and a master cylinder. Yes, the master cylinder can do this. I have seen it before on M.B., on a 140 chassis, and a 126. In fact, you may need wheel beaings, if the seals got cooked. -Zach

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I'm in the middle of the same exact brake problem with my 99 c280. I had gone to the store 2 miles away with no problem. Started back home and it started to feel like a slight drag, just not the same kind of coast off the accelerator. It gradually got worse but like your wife I thought the 1 mile left to go before home would be alright. By the time I'm back in the driveway the rear rotors are glowing like a lava flow and the flames incidentally where popping up from the top of the rotor from between the cooling slots. Also like you my e brake was in good shape. I thought the problem was with the anti-tow feature of the security system (which applies the rear brakes when being stolen with a tow truck). My mechanic says no that that system passes diagnostic testing. Get this. After a complete rear brake replacement and a subsequent master cylinder swap, now the front brakes are locking up. It's been in the shop 5 weeks now going on 6. I sure would love to know what the problem with yours turned out to be.

I was unaware of the brakes applying as an anti tow. You could unplug the ABS unit and see if the problem goes away. But you won't have ABS in a hard stop so proceed at your own risk. ( and drive it like an old car with straight brakes )

You would see a button on the center area of the dash to disable this very feature, it is drawn like a car being lifted by a hook from the front. (it does show on my E320 which has ESP too.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I would not use stock pads anymore,I use ceramics

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Got it. I have seen the button on other cars before and through it was to shut off the tilt alarm.