R/R steering box removal - scale of 1-10 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #1 03-06-2008, 07:14 PM

I pose this question here although it is specific to the W107. I think it may be similar on the W126 and others

So on a scale of 1-10 , 1 - (so easy I could so it with my eyes closed

) to 10 ( WTH was I thinking

) what does it take to R/R the steering box. I have a replacement that was fairly easy to remove becuase the engine was out and I could trash everything in the way, but to replace mine with everything in the way - seems like another story - who has done it and what can I expect, more importantly is this a DIY project

In my case - more information the better!

donbryce · #2 03-06-2008, 08:03 PM

I'm doing this very job right now, or at least I started today ('86 560SL). First issue is getting the bolts/nuts off that hold the exhaust/crossover pipe to the driver's side manifold. Wow, talk about inaccessable, I tried every socket/flex-end combination I have and no way yet to get at 'em. This pipe has to come off to drop the box. Tomorrow, I'll look into a sawzall to cut the bolts, last resort will be an acetylene torch....
The big nut on the pitman arm was easy, as I had a big socket left over from my Volkswagon bug days, used for the wheel/axle nuts IIRC. The splined arm is another story. My heaviest puller isn't up to the job. It's on there at full tension, and I'm soaking with PB Blaster, hoping it might budge. Air-hammer on the arm while puller engaged didn't do nuttin'. I'm going to go begging/borrowing tomorrow for a BIG puller...maybe
As I understand this job, the little coupler bolts on the steering shaft are loosened, and the manual says to follow the drill to raise the steering shaft up enough to get it out of the coupler. I'm going to find out if the box spline can be withdrawn out of the coupler without pulling the shaft upward. The upper bolt looks really hard to get at, but the lower one isn't too bad....
I already removed the damper, and popped the 2 ball joints for the tie rod and drag link out of the pitman arm. Hopefully, I can remove the gearbox with the pitman arm attached and get it off in the shop press....
I understand the gearbox is very heavy and care must be taken to get it out without dropping it...
After it's out, I have an excellent article on seal replacement, and a complete kit on the way. Reading this suggests, to me, that the seal/rebuild of the box itself is about a #8 job, getting the thing out is a #5 with the right tools, a #9 without the right tools...
http://www.davidpetryk.net/Mercedes/Steering.htm

meltedpanda · #3 03-06-2008, 08:51 PM

luv - hate - luv , we have talked!

Please keep detailed notes! pictures

. Mine is leaking quite a bit. By what you have said so far it looks like a 10+ for me!

Thanks for the link

Richard Wooldridge · #4 03-07-2008, 12:04 AM

Keep in mind that the lower bolt on the steering coupler must be completely removed as it locks the shaft in place when its through the hole, due to a depressed area in the spline. Also, the upper bolt on the steering coupler is very easy to access by lifting the cover inside the cabin area, contrary to the information Mr. Bryce gave. If you only need to replace the coupler, it can be done from inside the cabin without removing the steering box in about 2 hrs max.

pmckechnie · #5 03-07-2008, 07:41 AM

First, set the front wheels straight, use something to make sure the steering wheel does not turn, mark the coupling and shaft of steering box for realignment, and mark the position of the pitman arm in relation to the steering box. If you don't do the above there is a good chance you will be doing the job again (don't ask how I know). I have done this job on the 107 and the 126 and believe the 107 is a little harder.

donbryce · #6 03-07-2008, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Also, the upper bolt on the steering coupler is very easy to access by lifting the cover inside the cabin area, contrary to the information Mr. Bryce gave.

I'm feeling a bit thin-skinned today I guess, but I wasn't trying to be authoritative on this at all, as I stated that I'm just starting the job myself....and learning as I go. Appreciate the information on the lower bolt and the access to the upper one, very much....none of these details are anywhere else I've read. I'll be looking for this 'cover' today.
So, is it recessary to pull the steering shaft upward to release the coupler?

ctaylor738 · #7 03-07-2008, 09:33 AM

If you poke around a bit you will find my post on my experience on the Wayward Woman, the world's worst 380SL. I bought a cheap front end set from JC Whitney for the job. It's tedious, but not difficult, made much worse if you have to do it on your back as I did.

You need to mark everything - steering wheel, both ends of the coupler, and the pitman arm to be sure that you get it back together so your steering wheel will be straight when the wheels are straight and the turn signals cancel.

meltedpanda · #8 03-07-2008, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmckechnie

I have done this job on the 107 and the 126 and believe the 107 is a little harder.

thats encouraging

meltedpanda · #9 03-07-2008, 09:52 AM

I gotta ask, mine is leaking and must be addressed but , any seals that can be replaced while the unit is on the car??? I really do not have any slop to speak of?????

MattBelliveau · #10 03-07-2008, 09:53 AM

Not trying to hyjack, but has anyone done this job on a w123? I've got a used box coming, that I was going to reseal and swap into mine. Is this job a 1 man job, or should I be looking for help?

donbryce · #11 03-11-2008, 07:41 PM

Quick update on the job progress:
- I borrowed a heavy duty pitman arm puller from the local indie, a nice snap-on unit. It still took an 18" strong-bar and an extra 14" length of pipe to get the damn thing off! It's a tapered spline joint, probably never been removed since the factory.
- With that out of the way, I had some room to tackle those 2 bolts attaching the drivers side exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe, the $$ one with the stainless steel/asbestos wrapped covering. Royal PIA, no socket I had or combination of extensions/flex-ends would let me grab those bolt heads. I used a die grinder and small cutting wheels and carbide burrs to cut off the heads, fearing that the bolts might be into the manifold casting (rather than nuts) and I wanted to end up with studs to grab later to turn out. I think there are capture/cage nuts on the other side, they can barely be seen. One bolt/stud turned out by hand, the other I'll wait until the box is out to remove it.
- My 'intermission' project will be to fabricate a couple of stainless patches in the exhaust cover, and weld them in. Lots of fluids have found there way into the asbestos lining through the holes, especially PS fluid, which accounts for much of the smoking after a hot run. Where can I find some asbestos in this day and age?
Next up will be to remove the cover plate at the base of the steering column and tackle the coupler allen bolts. I'm wondering if the coupler can come off with the gearbox if the upper bolt is loosened?

Edit/Added today Mar.12: Picture of the exhaust pipe missing cover material. I dropped into the woodstove outlet and they gave me a handfull of some asbestos-like packing used in their stoves, guaranteed not to burn. Next up will be forming some stainless to the curvatures and mig-welding the patches into place.

VEGASTECH777 · #12 03-12-2008, 12:18 AM

Ive resealed many a steering gear box. The SLs are the ones that take a little longer due to the need to remove the exhaust pipe. On a good day I can do the job in 2 hrs start to finish. I have a date coming over for some quality time if you know what I mean....

It will take me at least a half an hour to type a full detailed job instruction. Ill get back here later on tonite or in the morning and do it. Dont worry its not as bad as you think. But be careful when doing the reseal. If you disassemble the box too far you will have to deal with 17 if I remember correctly steel balls and if you lose one your screwed! The first time is always the hardest, but once done its not all that bad First time skill level 8 2nd time 4....

meltedpanda · #13 03-12-2008, 08:16 AM

no way to do seals on the car?

VEGASTECH777 · #14 03-12-2008, 08:42 AM

Its possible to replace the large seal at the bottom where the Pitman arm is. Simply remove the pitman arm and the 4 bolts for the lower cover plate. Then tap the sides of the lower cover plate gently to get it to free and pry it off the box with a flat screw driver. Once off you can replace the large black inner oring and the bottom external seal. Keep in mind that the inner oring does most of the sealing in that area and the outter seal is just backup. And just as if you were working on an automatic trans use vasoline or trans assy lube to lube it before re-assembly.

donbryce · #15 03-12-2008, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VEGASTECH777

It will take me at least a half an hour to type a full detailed job instruction. .... But be careful when doing the reseal. If you disassemble the box too far you will have to deal with 17 if I remember correctly steel balls and if you lose one your screwed! The first time is always the hardest, but once done its not all that bad First time skill level 8 2nd time 4....

Are there any important details in the David Petryk article that we should be aware of, or differences to watch for, since he was doing a W126 gearbox and this thread is focused on the W107?
Not wishing to discourage you from doing a write up, that would be most welcome. At this early stage of my job, the seal kit is sitting in customs, the box is still in the car, but more advance knowledge of what lies ahead would be very comforting....