R/R steering box removal - scale of 1-10 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #1 03-06-2008, 07:14 PM

I pose this question here although it is specific to the W107. I think it may be similar on the W126 and others

So on a scale of 1-10 , 1 - (so easy I could so it with my eyes closed

) to 10 ( WTH was I thinking

) what does it take to R/R the steering box. I have a replacement that was fairly easy to remove becuase the engine was out and I could trash everything in the way, but to replace mine with everything in the way - seems like another story - who has done it and what can I expect, more importantly is this a DIY project

In my case - more information the better!

donbryce · #2 03-06-2008, 08:03 PM

I'm doing this very job right now, or at least I started today ('86 560SL). First issue is getting the bolts/nuts off that hold the exhaust/crossover pipe to the driver's side manifold. Wow, talk about inaccessable, I tried every socket/flex-end combination I have and no way yet to get at 'em. This pipe has to come off to drop the box. Tomorrow, I'll look into a sawzall to cut the bolts, last resort will be an acetylene torch....
The big nut on the pitman arm was easy, as I had a big socket left over from my Volkswagon bug days, used for the wheel/axle nuts IIRC. The splined arm is another story. My heaviest puller isn't up to the job. It's on there at full tension, and I'm soaking with PB Blaster, hoping it might budge. Air-hammer on the arm while puller engaged didn't do nuttin'. I'm going to go begging/borrowing tomorrow for a BIG puller...maybe
As I understand this job, the little coupler bolts on the steering shaft are loosened, and the manual says to follow the drill to raise the steering shaft up enough to get it out of the coupler. I'm going to find out if the box spline can be withdrawn out of the coupler without pulling the shaft upward. The upper bolt looks really hard to get at, but the lower one isn't too bad....
I already removed the damper, and popped the 2 ball joints for the tie rod and drag link out of the pitman arm. Hopefully, I can remove the gearbox with the pitman arm attached and get it off in the shop press....
I understand the gearbox is very heavy and care must be taken to get it out without dropping it...
After it's out, I have an excellent article on seal replacement, and a complete kit on the way. Reading this suggests, to me, that the seal/rebuild of the box itself is about a #8 job, getting the thing out is a #5 with the right tools, a #9 without the right tools...
http://www.davidpetryk.net/Mercedes/Steering.htm

meltedpanda · #3 03-06-2008, 08:51 PM

luv - hate - luv , we have talked!

Please keep detailed notes! pictures

. Mine is leaking quite a bit. By what you have said so far it looks like a 10+ for me!

Thanks for the link

Richard Wooldridge · #4 03-07-2008, 12:04 AM

Keep in mind that the lower bolt on the steering coupler must be completely removed as it locks the shaft in place when its through the hole, due to a depressed area in the spline. Also, the upper bolt on the steering coupler is very easy to access by lifting the cover inside the cabin area, contrary to the information Mr. Bryce gave. If you only need to replace the coupler, it can be done from inside the cabin without removing the steering box in about 2 hrs max.

pmckechnie · #5 03-07-2008, 07:41 AM

First, set the front wheels straight, use something to make sure the steering wheel does not turn, mark the coupling and shaft of steering box for realignment, and mark the position of the pitman arm in relation to the steering box. If you don't do the above there is a good chance you will be doing the job again (don't ask how I know). I have done this job on the 107 and the 126 and believe the 107 is a little harder.

meltedpanda · #6 03-07-2008, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmckechnie

I have done this job on the 107 and the 126 and believe the 107 is a little harder.

thats encouraging

donbryce · #7 03-07-2008, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Also, the upper bolt on the steering coupler is very easy to access by lifting the cover inside the cabin area, contrary to the information Mr. Bryce gave.

I'm feeling a bit thin-skinned today I guess, but I wasn't trying to be authoritative on this at all, as I stated that I'm just starting the job myself....and learning as I go. Appreciate the information on the lower bolt and the access to the upper one, very much....none of these details are anywhere else I've read. I'll be looking for this 'cover' today.
So, is it recessary to pull the steering shaft upward to release the coupler?

ctaylor738 · #8 03-07-2008, 09:33 AM

If you poke around a bit you will find my post on my experience on the Wayward Woman, the world's worst 380SL. I bought a cheap front end set from JC Whitney for the job. It's tedious, but not difficult, made much worse if you have to do it on your back as I did.

You need to mark everything - steering wheel, both ends of the coupler, and the pitman arm to be sure that you get it back together so your steering wheel will be straight when the wheels are straight and the turn signals cancel.