That's right 3 pins and no other relay visible.
Did double check arm and disarm and try with all doors close with same horn result.

You must mean 86, 87, and 30 ???

Take the relay out and jumper right at the plug the relay plugs into.

That should be marked #1 [ for relays 87 pin] and # 3 [ for relays 30 pin]

That will/should be the V/GN and V wires at that plug.


Don't go doing other stuff on me...

__________________
A Dalton

roger that.
I will only do as directed.
Just to described what I had done. I soldered across the pins 3 & 87 on the relay.
I will remove the solder and try to jump the connection. I am having a hard time seeing into the recess to see labels or wire colors (not much room) I did not fully disconnect the cluster but pulled it out and to the side. I will be back shortly

< I soldered across the pins 3 & 87 on the relay>

Are you going to answer my other question??

I ask again...did you mean 30 , not 3???????
There should be no 3 ..there should be a 30 .
Verify

__________________
A Dalton

Yes, so sorry. it's 30 not 3

Sorry for the delay (it's raining and I'm working outside on this)
the plug is labeled 1,3 and 4. 1 goes to 87 and 3 goes to 30. Give me just a minute to jump the 1 and 3.
Looks like three wires are going to the plug. I think all wires have a black stripe. colors are violet, brown and white with red spots.

Started right up (when I finally did as instructed)
Thank you so much AD. Please tell me how to make this permanent. I don't understand why soldering across the relay pins did not produce the same result.

Ok

The suspect problem is the relay contacts have shorted to 86 , which will then feed the ATA and blow the horn. [ relay probably rattles??]
Anyway, What I would do is to take the top of the K38 relay and junk the coil and contacts internals, just leaving the pins and the base..then solder a jumper across 30 and 87 and plug the relay back in as your permanent jumper . Make sure nothing else is left on these pins, please!!!!
If anyone ever works on the car starter circuit again, just tell the Tech yours has been rewired to Canadian Version [ No K38 circuit]

We did a post on the best way for you to get an answer from this Forum a couple of years ago, and you may want to go read my post [ post #2]
at the top of the page:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=127343

That post info about sums it up and sure does fit this one.



Seeya.

__________________
A Dalton

Thanks AD.. I read your post on posting and I hope I did due diligence in searching the forum before asking for help. In spite of my confusion and questions you patiently got me through this job and I have a great deal of satisfaction from being the hands if not the brains on fixing this. Very best regards.
Ray

Very Good.

You get a C- , but I am sure the next time around will be cool...
This one was testy, so I am giving myself an A+ for Patience.

Glad it's over.

__________________
A Dalton

Success Story:
I took the cover off the relay and inspected the coil. Of course everything of the electromag contact in the relay seemed to be ok and no sign of short. I figured it might have been stuck before I opened it so I went back to the car but before plugging it in I removed the jumper and just for fun I tried cranking before plugging in the relay and it started right up with no jumper and no relay. I plugged the relay back in and it starts then too. The horn works fine.
The only remaining glitch is it will not start in neutral; only park. I'm delighted and posting this info for whatever it may be worth.

If it cranks with no jumper or relay, then someone has already jumpered the K38 circuit out and you have a bad NSS.
That is why , way back in your early post, you had a V wire from ignition sw down at the NSS x49 plug when it was supposed to be V/Grn..
Remember that?
That would indicate K38 has already been bypassed.

__________________
A Dalton

Arthur:

I am getting the same symptoms as fulltimefamily ( no crank, no start, batt is 12.4V). It started fine one morning ( 2 days ago), turned off engine and parked it for about 10 minutes. tried to start it thereafter, and no crank. Are the steps in here applicable to a 91 560SEL?

thx

Did you try "N " gear selection??

__________________
A Dalton

Arthur:
Thx for the quick reply. Neutral does not work either. I found my schematic and for my car and as I see it, the flow is in this order:
1. ignition sw (S2/1)
2. Starter Lockout/backup lamp switch(S16/1)
3. Starter harness connector (X27)
4. Starter (M1)

I jumped the Batt+ to X27(pin 2, male end) and I could see spark at the Batt+ terminal as I try and jump but could not get the starter to turn. So I concluded I have a bad starter. One thing that confused me though was that in this thread, you had mentioned that it is the "Mounted to firewall" end of the X27 plug that needs to be jumped. I found that for my car, it was the opposite. I traced the continuity of the X27 harness, and found that the "unplugged end(male) that is NOT mounted to the firewall" that actually goes to the starter solenoid. I have ordered the starter and hope to get it in by Thursday. can you confirm if I am on the right track?