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At wit's end over an idle issue
Hi all,
This post is to follow up on a previous post I created to discuss an idle issue I'm having with my 1985 380se. I've been through a lot of work in dealing with the problem and I'll list it out with steps that I've taken. - I've tested the throttle position switch in the throttle wide open position and the throttle shut position. Both close the continuity tester. - I've found a blown resistor in the Idle Control Unit. I've replaced it twice with no luck. The idle still rides high. - I've replaced the idle control valve. I tested the old one; it bounces up and down between 32 and 50 ohms. The one I received sits well at 5 ohms. - I've tested the voltage across the nos. 2 and 4 pins on the Idle Control Unit connector. I get a solid 12 volts. - I had my parts supplier send me another control unit because the first I suspected of being shot and to no avail, the one he sent also had no effect. Could it be a vacuum leak somewhere? Could it be to do with the switchover valve; the one on top of the driver's side fender under the hood. I tell you, this problem is such a mystery. It started randomly one morning when I was driving out to work. I momentarily pressed the gas and I felt a sudden jump in power and since then the idle's been running at about 1600 - 1700 cold and between 2000 and 2300 warm. I've almost considered just playing with the timing to get it to come back to normal, but I think that'd really mess with fuel economy. So far it makes between 16 and 17 city and 18 to 20 highway. I used to get 19 city consistently when I came out to Texas. Before coming out here I used to get anywhere between 22 and 25 mpg in the Arizona desert. I appreciate any insight you guys can provide. -Troy
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- - - '77 federal 280e - 222k miles - - - '85 380se - 129k miles - - - '07 Chevy truck - - - '79 Datsun 280zx with '82 turbo motor - - - Currently looking for a clean 190e with less than 160k miles. |
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