We need to remove the drivers side seat from a 1992-300E. The wires have been cut and pulled. Why, I don't know but we can't get to the rear bolts... I have tried to jumper the proper wire/s and move the seat. The wires are cut but can be reached at front of the seat.. Help and ideas are needed... Jim

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James A. Harris

Jim,

I removed the driver's seat on my '95 E420 over the summer and had to have the seat's back all the way forward prior to its removal. I'm not sure about the cut wires though?? Who would cut the seat's wires??

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1995 E420
1998 SL500 Sport
2009 E350 Sport
1995 S500 Coupe
1992 500 SEL

Are you sure you are powering the correct wires? Does anything move when you put power to the seat.

I don't think there is any other way to get to those bolts. Unless you can take the entire seat apart and then access them.

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Jim,

I suggest you check/replace all fuses associated with the seats F2 and F9 and fuses E, F, G, and H.

Also Auxiliary fuses holder (F13) this may be under the cover to the rear of the fuse box, together with the group of relays, which includes the relay for power seats.

From what I can see, the wires to the seat forward – backward motor are one blue and one violet. Are these the ones you are trying?

It’s possible the PO cut the wires to test or move the seat when they could not find the fault of reason for it not working.

You could use a volt meter to test the right side seat motor to understand power and ground to the motor and apply same to the left side
Good luck with it,
Acky

We are parting out the car and every thing has been removed including the fuse box and the wiring to the door and to the seat from the door. All that is left is the drivers seat.. The seat is all the way back. I told my helper not to cut any wires until the seats were removed but things happen. I will jumper the blue and or the violet wire. If it has a brown wire I will hook up a ground. I think it has about 6 or 7 wires in a bundle. Jim

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James A. Harris

I had a similar issue when parting out my '91 300SDL. We used a carbide burnishing tool on an air grinder to grind the heads off of the bolts.

I don't know if grinding from below the floor is an option, might check that as you might have more space for a regular cutoff wheel or angle grinder.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

The fore and aft motor is supplied current via violet and blue wires at the motor. Dont pinch your weiner in the seat frame if you take my advise and try to jumper power to them from a seperate power source.

quick and dirty is with front bolts removed tilt the entire seat back, bending the floor track so that you can now get a wrench or socket on the rear bolts in from the sides (side meaning from the center toward the outside). The floor track can bend back nicely when out of the car. You may be able get a wrench or socket in from the sides of the track on one of them without using the grunt method.

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Hanno
'79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years)
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion
'02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'05 E500 Wagon

I've been able to stick a wrench or small socket in there since the rear bracket is slightly elevated. It takes awhile since you can only turn a little at a time.

Another option if you can't get your hand in there is to cut at the floor if it's going to be trashed anyway. Cut enough to get access to the bolts.

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'88 300TE, 175k, black RENNTech 3.6L Recaro C's AMG 1 SOLD
'92 500E, 110k, Spruce green, stock SOLD
'94 E320 Cabriolet, 130k, E500 wheels, Emerald green SOLD
'94 E320 Cabriolet, 110k, black, stock, SOLD
'88 300TE, 229k, dark grey, SOLD
'90 300CE, 212k, white, new paint, SOLD
'91 300E, 209k, white, rebuilt head SOLD
'74 914-6, grey, 2.7L 325hp twin turbo Audi conversion