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Wow , lot's of Incorrect info on this one , too..............

1- Not only does this chassis have an OVP, it has the infamously troublesome one that was Factory changed from part 000-540-52-45 to 000-540-67-45.
A '95 124.092 E320 without an OVP would be wishful thinking......

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1995-Mercedes--Benz-E3--0--Wagon-Body--Electrical&yearid=1995%40%401995&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6392%3ABT%7C6%3AMBC%7C1522%3AED%7C10000022%40%40E320+Wagon&catid=241959%40%40Body+Electrical&subcatid=242003@@Overload+Relay&mode=PA

If you have the Original OVP part#, change it to the Modified part #, regardless.

2- This chassis has DIS Ignition system, so it has NO rotors or caps. It is Distributorless Ignition.

3= You do not have EHA system...this car is HFM/SFI full electronic.

Which is exactly why the OVP is suspect.
It is located behind panel to the rear of the Battery. Tall, aluminum relay w/fuse on top. Part# is on the side..if it is made by Siemens, it is the faulty one.
And get rid of the Plats . Never use Plats in a 104 Waste Spark Ignition system.

Don't even bother looking for caps/rotors cuz there are none, but you will find an OVP right where I posted.

You also want to get the existing codes from pins 8 [ HFM-N3/4 module] and pins 14 [ Elecronic Actuator module]
The codes you have posted are Emmissions codes and the actual codes you want now are in the Engine Management ECU. The codes you list are only CE lamp activation/emmissions codes from the DM -N/59 module.

On the 4K limit, that is normal default torque converter RPM protection in N or P gear selection...so, an answer to that question/post is required for proper diagnosis. You can verify that by driving >8MPH and putting into N ..the 4K limiter default will then be over-ridden and higher RPMs attainable.
Back to N or P at standstill and the 4K limit will default again. Normal.

Go here :
This will tell you how to get the correct codes and the charts for each module.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=107630

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A Dalton

AH-HA! I have some direction...and I am off! I will check the OVP first, then order coil packs and correct plugs. I will work on building a code reader...thanks a million, I will keep posting as I learn more.

Don't get coil paks until you get the codes from Pin 8 of HFM module...that will tell you if all/any of the coil paks are NG..that is the reason I am sending you to HFM module for Engine Management codes...see?

__________________
A Dalton

I see, said the wise man....

Code reader seems simple enough....I will be stopping by Radio Shack shortly..wish me luck

Very Basic...


A good chassis is an empty 35 MM film container...easy to poke a couple of holes in to mount the sw and exit the leads.

Only trick is read the instructions on the LED b/c they are polarity sensitive..if it does not work, you most likely have the LED leads reversed...common mistake.
When the tool is assembled, an easy verification test is to simply put the red + and black- across a car battery and press the switch...if the led lights , you are good to go. If No, yoo are reversed on Led lead/ wiring.......

__________________
A Dalton

If you were anywhere near me, I would buy you a beer!