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#1
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300e stalls when watrm
I have a 92 300e with the 103 engine. Always starts right up and idles great cold. But when car is warm it wants to stall at idle. New plugs and wires, but i can't figure out what could be the cause. Is this a potentiometer issue?
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#2
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the potentiometer should be fine if the cold starting and warm up is OK.
Near stalling is normally resolved by a thorough cleaning of the air intake bore and idle control valve ICV . This should sort out the problem and also set the basis of further checks if required, vacuum pipe leaks ,ignition, fueling etc. mak 300se/103 |
#3
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What is the condition of the distributor cap and rotor? Is the coil new(er) or original.
Sometimes a bad cap/rotor will cause issues once the car warms up. If they have not been replaced in recent history, then they need to be.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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Thanks for the input, I will try suggestions and report back.
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#5
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Any random lights popping up on the dash? abs cel?
__________________
Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#6
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check these items
do a fuel pressure test, check for internal and external leaks, air flow sensor plate and the coolant temperature sensor. I fixed a stalling when warm problem with a new coolant temp sensor and fixed some leaks at the fuel pump assembly hoses. The resistantance is measured diagnolly( if you have a 4 pin coolant temp sensor) and the resistance MUST be the same or its junk. Are you plugs black?
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#7
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I know this sounds dumb, but check the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Back of engine on top of the flywheel. My car did the same as yours, I replaced almost everything and found out it was this sensor the went out. Replaced it and it ran like a champ.
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#8
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if it was the cps should be stalling whether the engine is warm or cold.
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#9
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Often the resistance of the CPS will change as the heat of the engine warms it up. This happened on my 300E....it was "sorta" in spec cold, but got right on the borderline when warm. I replaced it, no more stalling/hard starts. The wiring was falling apart on it too. Best to replace something so critical to the operation of the engine.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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Quote:
none of the TSBs for stalling when warm do not mention the CPS. Stalling when warm is caused by rapid pressure drop results in the formation of vapour bubbles in the system. in my case the coolant temp sensor was sending mixed signals to the ke control unit and ezl causing confusion between the ignition and fuel injection
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) Last edited by Oracle12345; 10-17-2009 at 09:37 PM. |
#13
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we should know what component is causing it or it may be slight drift off in the air flow due to accumulation of oil, dust etc at the bottom of the air flow passage ,visible if the air flow plate is removed and throttle held wide open.should be spotlessly clean .
mak 300se |
#14
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I did not mean to start a small uproar. My car stalled only when warm, it ran fine cold.
Got to go about 15-20 miles the first time, then the expense of all the goodies to make it run - and it did not run one tiny bit better. I was at an end of the cars life when I saw something about it on here. The next time it happened (ran fine for 15-20 minutes this time) I bought a CPS, changed it, and never had another problem with the car, no matter how long I drove it or how far I drove it. To all those mighty thinkers that say it can't happen, I have proof that it can and does happen. |
#15
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Quote:
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
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