My w124 evaporator removal thread

[ps2cho]

Good news...Vacuum is pulling almost 75cm Hg! It held vacuum so obvious no large leaks or issues. Going to let it keep evacuating for a total of 1hour at those rates then filling with r12 FSM states 30mins, so 1hour should be fine. Can't wait!

[ps2cho]

Everything is plugged back in, no leaks.

I'm about to recharge, but something is weird with the flaps. The middle flap has no air coming out of it under any condition and the pods don't seem to be moving. I've switched between the heater, econ and off and nothing moves.

There is also this electrical 'cracking' noise coming from the main unit where all the vacuum cables go to. Does this sound like that unit is dead? Any ideas?

[ps2cho]

^ Figured out the above...the vacuum cable in the engine compartment fell out...

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Larry,

Having an issue with the charging. I bridged pin 5 + 7 on Klima as the pressure switch wouldn't kick on the compressor and it is engaging, but the r12 does not seem to be sucking into the system. It took 1 can then basically stopped. Any ideas what is going on??

You may have to put your can into luke warm water to boil off refrigerant for the system to take it. This is common if you are charging in less than really hot weather.

You should NOT have had to bridge ANYTHING to get the compressor to turn. Once it has the pressure of a static charge after it takes whatever refrigerant it will take, then the low pressure switch should engage and the clutch should engage. Is it still bridged?

[ps2cho]

I just did what you suggested and it took another 1/2 a can...but has stopped drawing any more in again

Here are my static pressures.



Shouldn't the compressor have kicked on naturally by itself by now?

Yes, it should. I'm sorry, but I misunderstood your situation. I thought that the compressor had kicked in. You haven't hurt anything by boiling the refrigerant into it.

You need to trace the circuit. Do you have the factory wiring diagram? Basically the CCU supplies a hot to the low pressure switch at the r/d. The other side of the switch goes to the klima relay. With key on and I think even with engine off, there should be a hot at one side of that switch. If there is a hot on one side then move to the klima, if not move back to the CCU. Since you had everything apart, there might be one of the CCU's temp sensors disconnected.

Sorry I can't help any further.

[ps2cho]

It only kicked in when I jumped the pins 5 + 7 on the Klima, it has not kicked in by itself automatically. As I said, I bridged the two pins on the low pressure switch and nothing happened.
I have a functional A/C system on my wagon and I just swapped both the CCU and the Klima in and it still won't kick on by itself

...but either way, even when the compressor is ON by me bridging pin 5 + 7 on klima, it still is not pulling in the refrigerant...I'm lost here.

[ps2cho]

It looks like the footwells are closed....is there a way I can check if that main pod control unit is functioning as it should?

[babymog]

Footwells are closed in cooling mode IIRC.

[ps2cho]

Anybody else confirm this before I finish wrapping everything up?

Is there a procedure to check all the pods are functional seeing as I don't know which setting should move X pod?

[jcyuhn]

The footwell vents open if it is heating the car. Turn the temperature wheel all the way up; the center dash vents should close and the footwell vents should open.

The center dash vents open if the car needs cooling. I think you've already tested these...

The defroster vents open when, well, you push defrost...

The only one I don't understand is the diverter (I think that's the name), kind of a shortcut to the center vents which bypasses the heater core. Not sure when it opens - perhaps only the when the interior is very hot, way above the setpoint.

[babymog]

Is that tied to the recirculate button?