My w124 evaporator removal thread

Yes I would use the metal screen

[rickkhall]

MB manual says to take that screen and install on the new evaporator. I have done what you are doing. If you don't want to go back in after having a footwell full of coolant, I would personally replace the heater core, it IS 23 years old. What's another $100 dollars at this point??

[ps2cho]

In the FSM it mentions to 'glue' the screen to the new evaporator. What glue should I use?

Sorry for may seem like silly questions...but I want to make sure I get this right and not make silly mistakes like this.

[fred1948]

Originally Posted by ps2cho

In the FSM it mentions to 'glue' the screen to the new evaporator. What glue should I use?

Sorry for may seem like silly questions...but I want to make sure I get this right and not make silly mistakes like this.

I used RTV gasket maker. Put a blob of RTV in the same places as on original and embed the screen in it. Only problem with this is that you have to wait several hours for the rtv to set up.

I just tear off some small pieces of Sealtite and dab it on the screen to hold in place for assembly.

[ps2cho]

This is the oil I have...should work for the back-conversion right?

POLYOL ESTER OIL (Retrofit Oil)
Polyol Ester oil (Ester for short) or retrofit oil as its' sometimes called is the preferred oil to use when you are performing a retrofit. Ester oil is recommended by most after market manufactures and rebuilders. Ester oil mixes with and is compatible with mineral oil. Ester oil can be used with R12 and R134a refrigerants. Ester oil is not as harsh to o-rings, seals and paints as PAG oils. This is the oil that comes in or is supplied with the compressors that come from Everco, Murray, and Four Seasons. When you are doing major repairs you could prepare the vehicle for later retrofit.

New heater core:





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Box is all sealed up..Only had 2 clips left over and couldn't see anything obvious. I tested all pods and only 2/6 were 100% functional 3 were dead and one was just holding on for dear life

I found this lodged in the top intake. Any ideas what the heck it is??? I don't know if it was something jammed in there that has nothing to do with the box, but I couldn't figure it out. I don't think it came from the box, but just double checking if anything jogs memory?

Yes Ester is for R12 or R134a. I personally am old school and still use mineral oil, but there are many that use Ester with good success.

[ps2cho]

I remember reading something about removing the paint on the condenser...Is this what they are talking about?

I don't want to damage the fins, is it worth removing?

[lorainfurniture]

Roy said that you can flush with acetone and compressed air. I did mine that way and came out super clean. It flushed a ton of goo out.

Just do it outside!

[ps2cho]

Got the compressor off...Looks like it has been remanufactured at some point, but no date. Somewhere around the year ~2001. The car was not in use 2006 onwards and who knows when the A/C originally leaked out as I got the car and it was not functional, so it is probably safe to say the compressor has only been working for 3-4 years at best.



Now, the only seals are on the back that connect to the A/C pipes, correct? Nothing else I should do on the compressor once it is cleaned up and flushed with acetone followed by Ester?

I personally would not flush the compressor with anything but oil. Clean the condensor, but don't remove it.

My $0.02,

[ps2cho]

Box is back in and I will be attaching the bare minimum items to get the car started...Basically just anything that attaches to the heater box and the ignition lock and will start the car up. I want to make sure no leaks before anything else is attached.

Now I am at the point I will begin to flush all the hoses.

I have a DV Industries Vacuum Pump capable of 5CFM. Is that good enough? A friend gave it to me a while back as he was moving out...How long of an evacuation will it need once everything is ready?

Yep, that's a dandy vacuum pump. Even a small wet vane will get the job done, but it gets hot.

[ps2cho]

Just want to make sure I got this right...Correct me on any steps please!

1) Clean inside compressor using the ester oil and turning by hand until it comes out clean. Do I use compressed air after this? Add 20ml oil

2) Condenser needs to have the A/C Flush done to it followed by compressed air. No oil added. Does it matter which end flush it?

3) All hoses A/C Flush then compressed air (no filters/mufflers on our hoses? I'm reading you cannot flush these) Evap -> Compressor line = 10ml oil, Compressor -> Condenser line = 10ml oil

4) Expansion Valve/Evaporator....Leave it alone since it is new. Connect last. Add 40ml oil to evaporator.

5) R/D Leave it alone. Connect last - Add 10ml Oil

6) Connect everything up.

7) Evacuate system for X hours?

8) Fill system with 120ml oil and 2.4lbs of R12. Is it really 120ml or 120ml minus what I put in stated above?

All done!?

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Thanks again Larry. I really appreciate all your input. Couldn't have done it without you! Never done this before. I'm good at doing...just need a little instruction along the way

[ps2cho]

Great...The Reinz evaporator did not come with an expansion valve. I thought it didn't look right.
So much for finishing this up this weekend.