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  #16  
Old 09-12-2010, 07:15 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I tried several options similar to this over here - the pictures look great on the internet but when they arrived all of the ends of the pullers were too thick to fit in the little groove...

...That SIR tool looks the best so far to me!
Could you assemble a combination of the HF tool and two small collars or "keys" that slide into the grooves? That way you will be applying the puller to a "positive" rather than hoping the tool wiil fit into a recess. You'd need to find a piece of bar stock that fits very snugly into the recess on the pulley (maybe 3 mm thick or so?), cut it down so it sticks out maybe 3/16 inch and then apply the puller.

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  #17  
Old 09-13-2010, 05:45 AM
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Good idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Could you assemble a combination of the HF tool and two small collars or "keys" that slide into the grooves? That way you will be applying the puller to a "positive" rather than hoping the tool wiil fit into a recess. You'd need to find a piece of bar stock that fits very snugly into the recess on the pulley (maybe 3 mm thick or so?), cut it down so it sticks out maybe 3/16 inch and then apply the puller.
Yes good idea Yak - I tried something similar with some bits of 90 degree steel angle that was thin enough to fit in the slots on the pulley. However, on the pulley I tried this on, it turned out that the pulley was more or less glued in place with paint. I think the solution you suggest would work in most cases though.

As my attempt didn't work I didn't bother posting it.

I'm not sure if I've said this before (probably) but if anyone who is stuck and is reading this - if the puller suggestions are not working for you (TRY THESE FIRST THOUGH) knock the pulley off of the shaft with a brass drift. When the pulley is really stuck on there you will make less damage with a brass punch than you will by trying to use a puller on the V groves where the belts go... This works best for power steering pumps with the flatter pulley - I haven't done this on the bell shaped ones (yet)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 10-23-2010, 02:17 PM
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Better late than never!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Well I've got my mits on a FSM and the vanes do indeed go in as shown above.

The bit that goes around the vanes also needs to be in the correct way.
There is an arrow cast into this bit to show the direction of rotation.

I had a miserable time getting the pump to work after I had carefully cleaned it, resealed it, and put it back together. I was convinced that I had put it back together properly and in the end that proved to be correct... although I took it on and off the car another FIVE times before I found out what was wrong.

I went through 5 litres of ATF getting it to work and all that was wrong was a tiny bit of grit on an internal shuttle valve...

...as it is often said here what a PITA!

I'll post some pictures of the offending part when I get them off of the camera.

Well I said I'd do that 3 months ago - and guess what? I've just found the photograph.

If anyone has trouble getting one of these pumps to work after they've taken it apart try cleaning this bit (note the white stained fingers due to excessive and aggressive use of brake cleaner!)
Attached Thumbnails
W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions-vickers-shuttle-valve.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2013, 01:03 PM
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I have rebuilt a few of these pumps. The first one I did is the one on my car about a year ago. It's not that difficult at all. I tried several pullers and none fit that well. I found that you can get the pulley off the shaft rather easily if you hold the pump up by the pulley, loosely install the nut, and smack the nut a few times with a hammer. Popped right off for me and no damage to the pulley. Remember to keep track of the woodruf key.

No need to spill the vanes out, either. With the pulley off, use a ground down punch or similar tool to puncture the shaft seal and pry it out. Reinstall new seal with the help of a deep well socket that fists the seal diameter.

Now you can use a C-clamp to open the back of the pump. Install the shaft bolt and attach the C-clamp to compress the back plate so you can remove the snap ring. Be careful not to push the shaft into the pump when you remove the clamp or you will spill out the vanes. Replace the rear O-ring. Lube and reassemble. Don't forget the washers, etc that may have come out.

Replace filter and prime the pump with ATF before reinstall.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2013, 03:46 PM
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Thanks for the pulley tip - I might try that this weekend (just for fun)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #21  
Old 03-24-2014, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I have rebuilt a few of these pumps. The first one I did is the one on my car about a year ago. It's not that difficult at all. I tried several pullers and none fit that well. I found that you can get the pulley off the shaft rather easily if you hold the pump up by the pulley, loosely install the nut, and smack the nut a few times with a hammer. Popped right off for me and no damage to the pulley.
I tried the same method for removing the pulley and both the pulley and shaft came out!

When I tried putting the shaft back in nothing keeps it locked in place. I tried looking for a snap ring but to no avail.

Help...what do I do now?

Thanks..!
Paul
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  #22  
Old 03-24-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul060266 View Post
I tried the same method for removing the pulley and both the pulley and shaft came out!

When I tried putting the shaft back in nothing keeps it locked in place. I tried looking for a snap ring but to no avail.

Help...what do I do now?

Thanks..!
Paul
I don't know how that is possible. Can you post a picture of what happened?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #23  
Old 03-24-2014, 07:21 PM
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I threaded the nut half way and then I held on to the pulley while hitting the nut with a hammer which caused the pulley and shaft to come out in unison.

You can see a groove on the shaft but I do not see a snap ring or similar unless it fell into the vanes portion...in any case I need some help on how to proceed...
Attached Thumbnails
W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions-body.jpg   W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions-shaft.jpg  

Last edited by paul060266; 03-24-2014 at 08:54 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-25-2014, 04:49 AM
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If you look in chapter 46-720 in the FSM you'll see that there is a ring that goes on the shaft.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #25  
Old 03-25-2014, 06:59 AM
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Can someone post that page and any instructions on how to install the shaft with the ring...
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  #26  
Old 03-25-2014, 12:35 PM
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PM sent
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 03-26-2014, 06:55 AM
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Thank you Tristan...
I finally found the clip stuck to the back the vane housing...I reassembled and all is working fine...
Paul
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  #28  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul060266 View Post
Thank you Tristan...
I finally found the clip stuck to the back the vane housing...I reassembled and all is working fine...
Paul
I'm glad you got it figured out. I have never seen one come apart like that.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2018, 01:20 PM
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Post P.S.Pump Sealing

T.T.T.

I ran across this whilst planning to re seal two weepy (at rest only, never when driving / observing with the engine running) pumps .

Lots of good tips here, I hope to only need to replace the front shaft seal .

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