|
|
|
|
|
#1
09-12-2010, 03:03 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Anyone use an angle gauge when torquing the head?
The second and third steps are 90 degree turns. A gauge would be more accurate but I haven't read anyone mentioning it's use...
Quote:
__________________
'88 300TE, 175k, black RENNTech 3.6L Recaro C's AMG 1 SOLD '92 500E, 110k, Spruce green, stock SOLD '94 E320 Cabriolet, 130k, E500 wheels, Emerald green SOLD '94 E320 Cabriolet, 110k, black, stock, SOLD '88 300TE, 229k, dark grey, SOLD '90 300CE, 212k, white, new paint, SOLD '91 300E, 209k, white, rebuilt head SOLD '74 914-6, grey, 2.7L 325hp twin turbo Audi conversion 
|
|
#2
09-12-2010, 04:04 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
YES you should use an angle gauge for angle torquing.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
|
|
#3
09-12-2010, 06:37 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
In the W123 300D / 240D FSM it says that you may estimate the 90 degree torquing angle. See chapter 05-115 page 12.
"Estimate the torquing angle... [apply] wrench handle and ratchet parallel to centre line of engine, and turn until it is at right-angles to engine. Do not use a torque limiting wrench for applying the torque angle" I do not know if that is appropriate for your engine though (partly because you didn't state which of your cars you are talking about!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 09-12-2010 at 06:41 AM. Reason: Small print
|
|
#4
09-12-2010, 11:47 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I didn't on my 2.6. I torqued them down then did the 90 by eye. No leaks solid compression.
|
|
#6
09-12-2010, 06:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Eyeballing it is the easy part. the problem is your brain telling you that it swears the bolt is going to break while you are doing the second 90 deg
 .
__________________
Hanno '79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years) '83 280SL, 5 spd. '94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion '02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!) '87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold '05 E500 Wagon
|
|
#7
09-13-2010, 04:12 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, I find myself pulling on the wrench for all I'm worth while turning my head and squinting to avoid flying pieces of head bolt when it shears off into a million pieces. Feels like 200 lb-ft at least, but probaly not.
No angle gauge here, easy to hit 90 degrees pretty accurately with the inline six head. But with that kind of bolt torque, it's important to follow the cleanliness and lubrication recommendations to achieve proper clamp load and even pressure. DG
|
|
#8
09-13-2010, 05:00 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Use the gauge. You can get a cheap one at AutoBone for like $19. Yes the 90 deg is easy to eyeball, but there are times when you may have to pick up the wrench and move it to complete the 90 deg rotation due to the hex being in the wrong location or some interference in the engine bay hitting the wrench handle, e.g. the firewall. It's poor economy to save $19 for a potentially $$$$ screwup. In Oklahoma we used to call that kind of thing "a dollar tripping over a dime", trying to save a nickel on a potentaily expensive screwup.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
