Hey guys...using the forum advice and DIY links, I was able to install new front struts (KYB), new rear shocks (KYB), and new steering damper in my '91 300E in 2.5 hours total. Struts, Shocks and damper cost me $220.00 including shipping. The car handles like a new sports car and corners like an AFX G-Plus Slot Track race car (dating myself)! I didn't have to use a torch or PB Blaster to get any bolts loose. Original shocks were some cheap off brand made in Africa that had been in there and the struts were the originals with the Mercedes Emblem stamped on them.
Let me know if you have any questions if you are thinking about doing this yourself anytime soon. Be glad to help. And like they say, you do not need the spring clamps for the strut or shock installations.

How is the ride and stability?
And how would you compare the KYB shocks to Bilstein ones?

I am planning on doing a full suspension overhaul, including all bushes but unsure which dampers to get as the most important thing is ride quality for me.
Also I am unsure of changing every single bush is necessary or a waste of money.

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Smoke Silver 1994 E220 Coupe Automatic
0 kilometers 6 September 1994
100,635 kilometers - 6 September 2010

sptt, recommend taking your 1991 300E to your local MB dealer for an alignment so your car tracks properly and your tires wear evenly.

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Fred Hoelzle

I like my bilsteins with the sportline springs. I ran kybs on my trans am and they didn't last long. They handled great while they lasted (about a year). That car was lowered though so.

sptt,

Could you post links to the specific threads or articles that you needed to get the job done? I am about to purchase the 2 struts (front) and 2 shocks (rear) required, would really like to save the money and do this job myself.

Thank You

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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)

The ride is su-weeeet...now!!! I can take turns without braking and the car just stays level and seems to love it! I was going to replace all the other bushings, ball joints, etc. but my mechanic friend (who works on race cars and is an ex certified in everything mechanic) said suspension components in my car were still solid as a rock (he was amazed) and no need to replace yet unless I wanted to. He was very impressed with the suspension in this car and said it is still one of the better designed ones he has seen to date. I was going to use the Bilsteins but he said he has always used KYB in his trucks, cars, and SUVs and they last a long time so I tried those. If they go, I can replace with new Bilsteins in 20 minutes on each side. And yes, Ferdman, I will get it aligned as there was about a 1.5" higher difference when done. Also, when putting new strut on leave some play on the top nut in the engine compartment so you can perfectly line up the bottom to the top fitting nut/bolt assembly or it won't go in easily. I wasted 5 minutes trying to get that to work!

Strut Replacment....http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124FrontStruts

(get a long breaker bar type ratchet to break those bolts free...otherwise, you will need PB Blaster and a torch) Also, make sure you have a 7mm allen head wratchet socket for the top of the strut (if original strut...my new strut replacement was a 6mm head). Hold the outside brass nut with a wrench and crank the allen head to loosen (works best if you have a wratchet with allen head attachment. I tried the other way and could not get it to go).

Do your rear shocks first before your struts (gives you some confidence and momentum), the hardest part was getting the covers out of the trunk to access the top nuts for me! Remove these covers first. Jack up the car and put jack stands under each side so you have enough clearance to remove tires (after you've loosened lug nuts). Put your jack under the spring and give it some pressure just in case. Unbolt the original shock from top, then unbolt from bottom. Compress top down and remove. Replace with new shock in reverse. Bolt back in. Do other side. Replace trunk panel covers. Done!

To do the steering damper was very easy...just unbolt each side underneath car, remove and replace with new one. Mine was an original and had very easy movement in and out. The new one had good strong resistance and I can now tell the difference when driving on the freeway after hitting bumps and not getting a steering wobble.

The stability is 100% better now. I like cornering without feeling like I'm gonna fly out of the window I don't know what new Bilsteins feel like but I'm sure they're great! I just didn't have enough money to buy those and the shocks all at once. Next time, if I need them, I'll use the Bilsteins. By the way, fixing and padding my driver's seat was still the most difficult job I've done on this car !

Hope this helps.

Steve

Congrats; amazing the difference it can make. :-)

KYB seems to be a bit of hit and miss. They have held up fine on my 300D but on my Jetta they only lasted a year before leaking badly.

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How many kilometers on the car?
I have 100K km and the car rolls a lot and feels pretty unstable. It feels like more is worn than just the shocks, as the ride seems pretty solid (no oscillations over bumps, doesn't skip etc)

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Smoke Silver 1994 E220 Coupe Automatic
0 kilometers 6 September 1994
100,635 kilometers - 6 September 2010

Spetz,

Well...I have 186,000 Miles on my car (I can't do metric math in my head very well ). Before it rolled well...just dipped and swelled on the highway or when you went over train tracks you ears tickled, front end slammed when you'd hit a 2 inch bump and you had to turn like an old lady in an Oldsmobile Cutlass. Not now. I can turn at 90 degrees and accelerate as long as I have a nice dry road (not at high speeds). Freeway handling is sport-like...nice and tight. I noticed today that is seemed a little smmother than yesterday on the same stretch of highway...or is that a sugar pill I'm taking?

I am sure most of it is actual positive change in ride quality. My car has 211,000 miles and has the original struts and shocks. I know the struts are dead and leaking. I am debating whether I need to just get the control arm bushings replaced too as they seem very worn upon visual inspection. I dont have a spring compressor and doubt I would use it often enough to justify a purchase of one. Might need to hand this over to the indy with the parts in the trunk...

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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles
2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles
1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles
1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles

(On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!)

The replacement is not difficult at all. Take a read of my DIY on it...
http://w124-zone.com/?p=65

Very straight forward.

My struts were toast at 82k miles...You will notice a huge difference just by changing the struts and sway bar bushings. Unless you have wear on the tires, I would definitely do the sway bar bushings (front and rear...especially at 211k). It will no joke feel like a completely new car.

I've had great experience with Bilstein. I've used Comfort (do not recommend due to possible raising of the car...very comfortable though!!) and sport.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Yep...that is exactly how I did it. hardest thing was figuring out that it was easier to turn the allen bolt on the top of the strut vs. the nut that clamps it down. Also, make sure your steering wheel is unlocked so you can work on the front and back side of the strut to remove lower bolts easily. My sway bar bushings were rock solid but maybe I can't tell by feel??? Any tell tale signs of these being worn when driving?

Steve