The ride is su-weeeet...now!!! I can take turns without braking and the car just stays level and seems to love it! I was going to replace all the other bushings, ball joints, etc. but my mechanic friend (who works on race cars and is an ex certified in everything mechanic) said suspension components in my car were still solid as a rock (he was amazed) and no need to replace yet unless I wanted to. He was very impressed with the suspension in this car and said it is still one of the better designed ones he has seen to date. I was going to use the Bilsteins but he said he has always used KYB in his trucks, cars, and SUVs and they last a long time so I tried those. If they go, I can replace with new Bilsteins in 20 minutes on each side. And yes, Ferdman, I will get it aligned as there was about a 1.5" higher difference when done. Also, when putting new strut on leave some play on the top nut in the engine compartment so you can perfectly line up the bottom to the top fitting nut/bolt assembly or it won't go in easily. I wasted 5 minutes trying to get that to work!

Strut Replacment....http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124FrontStruts

(get a long breaker bar type ratchet to break those bolts free...otherwise, you will need PB Blaster and a torch) Also, make sure you have a 7mm allen head wratchet socket for the top of the strut (if original strut...my new strut replacement was a 6mm head). Hold the outside brass nut with a wrench and crank the allen head to loosen (works best if you have a wratchet with allen head attachment. I tried the other way and could not get it to go).

Do your rear shocks first before your struts (gives you some confidence and momentum), the hardest part was getting the covers out of the trunk to access the top nuts for me! Remove these covers first. Jack up the car and put jack stands under each side so you have enough clearance to remove tires (after you've loosened lug nuts). Put your jack under the spring and give it some pressure just in case. Unbolt the original shock from top, then unbolt from bottom. Compress top down and remove. Replace with new shock in reverse. Bolt back in. Do other side. Replace trunk panel covers. Done!

To do the steering damper was very easy...just unbolt each side underneath car, remove and replace with new one. Mine was an original and had very easy movement in and out. The new one had good strong resistance and I can now tell the difference when driving on the freeway after hitting bumps and not getting a steering wobble.

The stability is 100% better now. I like cornering without feeling like I'm gonna fly out of the window I don't know what new Bilsteins feel like but I'm sure they're great! I just didn't have enough money to buy those and the shocks all at once. Next time, if I need them, I'll use the Bilsteins. By the way, fixing and padding my driver's seat was still the most difficult job I've done on this car !

Hope this helps.

Steve