I ordered a Meyle torsion bar bushing kit (Part #1153200047) for my 81 380sl. However, the the diameter of the rubber buffer that's supposed to fit around the bar is only 22mm, and it should be 25. So the buffer won't close around the bar.

In addition, the bolt on the connecting link is supposed to be 210mm long, but it's only 203 mm. So, the bolt isn't long enough to hold the bushings, spacer, washers, torsion bar and the control arm together.

I was just wondering whether anyone has had this problem before, or am I just missing something.


Thanks in advance

I'm not familiar with your car - I've got a W123 - but I know that there are different sized torsion bars for the station and the sedan... may be you've got the wrong part?

Searching on Fast Lane gives this

http://catalog.peachparts.com/searchitem.epc?cookieID=32L0I7MU032L0I7MTZ

Do your parts look the same? Sorry I can't help more.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks for the quick reply. I plugged the kit #1153200047 to the Fastlane search engine, and it came up with one by Febi and one by SIP, which I never heard of.

Problem is that I can't tell whether these kits have the correct sized bushings and links for my car or not, and the dealer wants over $100 for the MB kit.

So now I'm thinking that the best thing might be to see if I can get just the connecting links and torsion bar bushings from the dealer, without having to buy the whole kit?

The dealer might help - the parts department for my local one happens to be really good here - but there are lots of grumblings here on the forum about dealers...

Anyway if you check out febi.com there might - just might be more information about the part that they make. May be you can compare dimensions there (if there are any) with the one you have. Otherwise as tomorrow is Monday why not give Fastlane a call and see if they can shed some light on your problem...

There could be differences in cars with / with out self leveling suspension for example - or chassis numbers etc etc

I think you need a chap with a bit more knowledge.

Don't start the conversation by saying I need part number XXXXXXXX - say I need a part for this car - the VIN number is:- XXXXX

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Considering the problems I'm having replacing the torsion bar and connecting link bushings, I'm now wondering whether replacing them is worth the effort in that the car (a 1981 380sl) will ride or handle better?

I can't say for sure with just the torsion bar bushings but for the suspension rebuild I did on my W123 it felt like a totally different car. I'm sure new torsion bar bushings were helping...

Take another look at how the suspension parts connect together - new bushings on the upper control arm are certainly going to give a more positive feel - and any sloppiness in a longitudinal direction would be improved with new bulkhead bushings.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!