The latest trouble with my 89 300TE is that it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure gauge to register pressure. It just seems to be a bit too long after sitting overnight. Once running, I have no concerns with pressure.

It has over 179k miles (odometer is dead), so I figure the first thing to check is if the electrical gauge is working by using a manual pressure gauge instead.

Any other suggestions?

Thx -CTH

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- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

i believe the consensus is that if it goes to 3 upon acceleration you are ok

on my 104...it drops to 0 at idle when it is warm...but immediately goes to 3 upon acceleration. on the 103 it is slightly above 0 at warm

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

The 103 engine requires an oil filter with a check valve. Cheap filters typically dont have one. Without one oil will drain out of the filter as it sits, taking longer to come up to pressure on a cold start.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

check the oil pressure sender unit. my oil pressure would shoot up to 3 when I was accelerating, but at idle it would rest at 0. eventually it only went up to 2.5 while accelerating past 40 mph. I replaced the sender unit and now it goes up to 3 when accelerating and is at 2 - 1.5 when idling.

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1990 190E 3.0L