|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
91 300CE motor rebuilding.
Hi guys, Have a few questions.
I have 91 300CE 104,980 That is having problems. Thinking of have the motor rebuild or replaced. I found a place on line that says they will rebuild my motor like new. Additional Core Deposit $1,100 Charge for non rebuildable core items: Block $500 - Head $600 - Oil pan $100 Cost: $6,850.00 LONGBLOCKS INCLUDE: Basically all components contained between valve cover and oil pan. New pistons, New oil pump, New rod and main bearings, New timing chain and sliding rails, New rod bushings, New crank seals, New freeze plugs, New water pump (on V-8 only), New oil pump drive bushings, New valve guides, New valves, New valve springs, New rocker arms, New ball stud adj., New hydraulic lifters, New chain tensioner, New or reground camshaft, Complete gasket set. Block machined to exacting factory specs. Bore and hone cylinders, surface deck. Connecting rods reconditioned, Reground and balanced crankshaft assembly. Cylinder Head is completely remachined including pressure test, resurface, cut seats, hone new guides to size. New valve guides, New valves, New valve springs, New rocker arms, New ball stud adj., New hydraulic lifters, New camshafts (on all V8 & Hyd. Lifter Engines), reground & hardened camshafts (on earlier mechanical type). Replace as needed or new: Timing gears, cam bearings, valve train hardware, Flywheel ring gear, Misc. hardware. Installation of cylinder head including valve adjustments. Diesels also include: rebuilt & calibrated Injection Pump, New injector nozzles, New prechambers, New rocker arm shafts, New glow plugs. Longblocks do NOT include: Engine management, electrical parts, carburetors or gasoline fuel inj. Components, starter, water pump (except v-8), A/C compressor, power steering pump, alternator, or other components not directly contained within the engine. My questions are: Is this a good price? How much should I expect to pay for someone to pull the engine out and how much to should I pay to have it reinstalled. Thank you for your help with these questions. Have a good day.
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
The bottom end of these motors are B-U-L-L-E-T P-R-O-O-F
Literally. The most ever needed is a top end rebuild (head, valve stem seals, etc). Putting in a new long block is a complete waste of money IMO. If you have someone else do the top end rebuild, it will run you $1500 MAX. Do it yourself and it will probably only be $300-500. Are you sure your running problems arent caused by the CIS-E being out of tune? There are many critical components that can fail making the engine run like dog *****. Just my .02.
__________________
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
JohnM., I am not sure what is the problem..
I know I am having the oil and water mixing. meaning I need to replace the gaskets. I figured that since I was at I would just have the motor rebuilt. I am not wanting to waste money on this repair. I just really love this car and want it to run tip top shape when I am done. I guess I just need a really good mechanic to give it a once over and tell me what is wrong.. It idols rough but does run.
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Common head gasket failure. It does not cause any damage to the bottom end. I bought my car with the same problem. Did the head gasket and all the tune-up items while I was in there and the car still runs great, nearly 4 years and 60,000 miles later.
My car still had full cylinder wall cross-hatching at 120K, walls looked brand new. The bottom end should be good for 400K+ before needing to be refreshed, if the rest of the car can make it that far!
__________________
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
CIS-E being out of tune? What is that? The car was running perfect till I replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator; Fuel Distributor Pressure Regulator EHA Valve. Installed it and the now the car idols rough... Changed out the fuel filter, and spark plugs and not change.. Did I have to do something to the car when installing a new Fuel Pressure Regulator; Fuel Distributor Pressure Regulator EHA Valve ? Like some setting or something?
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
You will probably need to adjust "duty cycle" i.e. basic fuel mixture when the engine is warm and idling. Was the EHA new?
__________________
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
yes brand new.. the old one was leaking fuel.
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Search for "duty cycle adjustment". All you need is a long allen wrench, and a volt meter. The adjusting tower is accessed through a hole in the air cleaner, which is why you need a long allen wrench, or a "T-handle" one if you can find it.
This adjusts IDLE mixture ONLY. It may have previously been adjusted by someone else, so replacing the EHA probably changed the mixture. Like I said, the car should be in closed loop, warm and idling with air cleaner on.
__________________
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I just did a head gasket job on my '93 300CE at 195K. What amazed us was the cross hatching on the cylinder walls looked brand new. You need to find a good Benz mechanic in Bakersfield to give you some help. A rebuilt engine would be a gross waste of your money.
Anziani '93 300CE 196K '95 E420 122K |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys I will go in a different direction. I am glad I posted this.. Ill let you guys know how it works out.
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
MARINE V, there's no way you need an engine rebuild at 105,000 miles. Find a reputable indie who regularly replaces 104 engine head gaskets and have the head gasket replaced and the head reworked. In fact, you may want to get quotes from two indies and a local MB dealer for the work.
__________________
Fred Hoelzle |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68...V/untitled.jpg |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Marine_V,
I concur as well. The car looks very nice. You can get a duty cycle meter from Sears for $29.99 and make the adjustment yourself (I can tell you how) but, if you are going to have the head gasket replaced, which will probably fix a lot more than you expect, the shop should be able to adjust it after they do it if it still needs it. I just did my head gasket and had oil in my coolant and found that coolant was also leaking into the #3 cylinder as well. This caused starting issues, warming up issues, burning coolant smell, and a bad leak down the back of the head onto the exhaust causing a horrible smell. Everything else looked great after it was cleaned up and it is running like a champ with no leaks or smells any longer. Check out ps2cho's thread on head gasket replacement. He has a DIY that works beautifully! Keep us posted with results! sptt |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
...and share some of the $5,000 you WON'T be spending with John and Ferdman. Find a good, knowledgeable MB mechanic, there's no substitute for understanding these motors. Good luck.
__________________
1988 California version 260E (W124) Anthracite Grey/Palomino Owned since new and still going strong and smooth MBCA member Past Mercedes-Benz: 1986 190E Baby Benz 1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized 1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin' There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I'm guessing you looked at metric motors?
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|