ok I went to NAPA and picked up a tire valve core, the type that has a rubber gromit and a nut to tighten or clamp it in place. I drilled a hole in the cap of the master cylinder and installed the valve core. I put pressure in it from my compressor but it leaks around the threds of the cap so I can not keep a steady pressure. yes the rubber o ring is in the cap. what the hell is next?

how much pressure are you using?

IIRC when I use the motive to pressurize it works wonderful under 15 PSI.

__________________
03 540I (GAK!!)
81 280E (W123)
70 LeMans Sport with pissed off Poncho 462"
1989 Silverado Step Side (under the knife- complete restomod)

I had my regulator dialed down to 30 psi

I have not done a car like yours but I would go down to 5-8 lbs. I don't think I ever use 10 lbs even.

I was able to bleed my master cylinder by using a motive pressure bleeder and then cracking open all the lines one by one.

It worked like a champ.

__________________
With best regards

Al

+1 on that. The 30lbs is way too high. I foresee complications with the compensating valve at that pressure. Also a possible conflict with any anti-lock braking system if you have one.

Boy this is some sort of conflict, some of the post I have read say 30 psi and now the return comments are mutch less than I have read. I just orderd a Motive bleeder I hope this will fix the system! I am curios though, I built a pressure cap from the original master cylinder cap, and it leaks, is the one Motive has of thicker plastic?

I'm pretty sure the bleeder itself has some type of internal regulator. 30 psi just seems way too much. I'd imagine brake fluid at 30 psi would shoot clear across the work shop.

Agreed. At 30 PSI I foresee complications washing brake fluid from hair, eyes, garage wall, etc.

I had my home made pressure bleeder pumped to 15 lbs while I was bleeding the clutch- the hose from the slave popped off and it looked like a brake fluid waterfall under the car.

30 lbs I'd be worried about cracking the fluid container!

__________________
95 E300D gave away
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, body gone away to the rust gods, engine is in a Yota pickup, going strong
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 154k summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k
12 VW Jetta- 250k
74 MG Midget-78k

well I toned down the pressure to 5psi then 10psi still no flow from the master I suspect that it is because of the air leak around the cap. I hope the motive gets to me today. perhaps we will find the answer, though I am troubled with wondering if the abs is pluged? I just do not know!

When I had to replace a brake line on the 190 I could not get it to bleed until I got the pressure up to 15-20 lbs.
The one I made is a pump garden sprayer that I added a pressure gauge to. I bought a new reservoir cover and drilled the old one, which fits plenty tight. I loose pressure out of the O ring around the pressure gauge right at about 20 psi.

__________________
95 E300D gave away
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, body gone away to the rust gods, engine is in a Yota pickup, going strong
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 154k summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k
12 VW Jetta- 250k
74 MG Midget-78k

the damn motive bleeder did not arive today perhaps it will on sat. maybe I will succeed with that tool.

Heck, you are under there already just try doing it the old fashioned way....
Put a wooden block under the brake pedal to limit the stroke so you don't damage the MC internal seals.

rjp

__________________
03 540I (GAK!!)
81 280E (W123)
70 LeMans Sport with pissed off Poncho 462"
1989 Silverado Step Side (under the knife- complete restomod)

Takes two to tango, I work by myself thats why I make as many tools as I do from liner pullers and press tools on class eight v hick ells to autos and cycles. its hard to find people to work with and if you do they want more than you make.