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  #1  
Old 07-04-2012, 01:25 PM
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Spring Rubber to temp fix camber issue

Put on a new set of tires on my 92 300 D and realized that my front end needs a rebuild so an alignment tech can adjust the camber on the tire via the control arms for an alignment.

As a temporary fix to help the inside edges of the tires I thought about getting some spring rubbers to bring up the level until I can do the rebuild so the inside edge of my tires have a break.

Anyone do this or have an idea how to figure out how much rubber is needed?

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  #2  
Old 07-04-2012, 01:30 PM
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Interesting idea - I reckon it will just make the front higher though...

...wouldn't you be wanting to fit in smaller springs / take out rubber to make the outer edges wear more?

EDIT - scratch that I now think you're right adding rubber will make the top of the wheel topple out...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #3  
Old 07-04-2012, 01:36 PM
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It should push the control arm down as well and that should take some of the weight off the inside edge of the tire.
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Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale
Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine

Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2012, 02:25 PM
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I'm not convinced you'll get very far with this - but if you can measure the length of the spring as it is now and make some rough measurements of the angle of the spring relative to the lower conrol arm (LCA) and the angle between the upper spring mount and where the LCA meets the chassis you should be able to get a rough idea of how much rubber you need.

I'd do this for you but the measurements on my W123 probably won't help.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2012, 05:15 PM
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They sell different size shims in the fast lane store. That would be even better than a rubber but do something similar. BTW that is probably a lot more cost effective than buying an after market camber bolt set. Which run about 400.
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My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles
Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale
Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine

Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I'm not convinced you'll get very far with this - but if you can measure the length of the spring as it is now and make some rough measurements of the angle of the spring relative to the lower conrol arm (LCA) and the angle between the upper spring mount and where the LCA meets the chassis you should be able to get a rough idea of how much rubber you need.

I'd do this for you but the measurements on my W123 probably won't help.
Trig.
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Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale
Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine

Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2012, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselJim View Post

As a temporary fix to help the inside edges of the tires I thought about getting some spring rubbers to bring up the level until I can do the rebuild so the inside edge of my tires have a break.
My guess is that a spring rubber would lean the tire in more at the top, if as I suspect, your upper control arm is shorter than the lower arm. However, you can simulate the rubber by jacking the body up a couple of inches and checking the change in the "lean" of the wheel.

If the wheels appear to be standing straight up, your wear problem is more likely to be a toe in problem which wears the inside of the tires if they are toed out too much, and wear the outside if they are toed in too much.

PS On second thought, it depends on the orientation of the upper control arm as it now sets. If the ball joint end on the upper arm is higher than the inside end attachment points, a spring rubber would lean the tire out. And of course, if your car has struts on the front, than I have been of no help what so ever.
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Last edited by nelbur; 07-04-2012 at 08:43 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2012, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
My guess is that a spring rubber would lean the tire in more at the top, if as I suspect, your upper control arm is shorter than the lower arm. However, you can simulate the rubber by jacking the body up a couple of inches and checking the change in the "lean" of the wheel.

If the wheels appear to be standing straight up, your wear problem is more likely to be a toe in problem which wears the inside of the tires if they are toed out too much, and wear the outside if they are toed in too much.

PS On second thought, it depends on the orientation of the upper control arm as it now sets. If the ball joint end on the upper arm is higher than the inside end attachment points, a spring rubber would lean the tire out. And of course, if your car has struts on the front, than I have been of no help what so ever.
I too was scratching my head for a bit about which way it is likely to go...

...and then I remembered the camber on those dumped VW Beetles back in the 1980s...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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