So I recently acquired an 88' 190e 2.6 Auto on the cheap! (steal really)
Car has only 100k and is quite clean.


Sat up for about a year with no fuel.
Owner had a stall issue, drilled holes in cat to fix. (Could be cause of the issue)
I've done some more tuning up (cap/rotor) and checked plugs (all nice and clean!)

The car still has a misfire on cylinder #4. Sometimes, the idle is fine, other times its rough. The odd thing is, even though its quite rough getting it going, once up to speed the fuel consumption meter relaxes back to nothing and you can hear/feel the engine even out like its firing correctly. But the second you go to accel any more, it misses and the fuel meter dips drastically.

Changed wire to no avail.
Would the clogged cat (or possibly precats) cause a misfire on just one cylinder?

Going to do some checks for vacuum leaks and other various CIS related things tomorrow, but wanted to bounce the problem off you guys as well.

Any help is appreciated!

Could be an injector or the fuel distributor outlet for that cylinder maybe blocked - due to no fuel for a year or so.

So remove the injector, clean the area and spray some carb cleaner into that injectors port on the fuel dist? Or would it require complete removal.

DERP.

Had checked the plug on the missing cylinder for crud, didn't even look at brand/model/gap.
Car had 6 Bosch Platinums completely ungapped (.050!!!!!) Changed to some autolite coppers for now.
Now she starts and revs fine for about 10 seconds then starts sputtering. Fuel filter change is next.

Update: Car starts and idles just fine. But, when you put it in gear the economy reader stays dipped about %25 (like its under a fair load.) Went to drive around the block and if you give it decent gas she sputters real bad and dies.

Basically, can't give her any load, but in park/neutral revs up real strong all the way up the rpm band. I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator I grabbed out the junkyard, going to throw it on next and see whats up.

Update:

Car starts and idles like it should but after about 30 seconds it just shuts off. No shutter, just kills like you turned the key off. Tried the supposedly new FPR that came with the car, and the one I snatched from the junkyard. Same result for both.

Wires/Cap/Rotor/Fuel Filter are new. No "obvious" vacuum leaks when sprayed with starter fluid.
IACV has been cleaned and when standing under the hood and it dies, you can hear it click about a half second later.
(I'm guessing returning to how it sits when not in use?)


EDIT: So both the fuel pumps are suppose to be new, I had ruled out any problems with them. Went back there to "feel" them and it seems only the secondary one is running. It's vibrating waaaay more than the first (as far as steps in the fuel system) Going to grab one from the JY and see if it fixes the shut-off issue. Also, the one that is running is quite loud at all times. I can hear it almost over my exhaust leak.

sounds like the car at least ran with the bosch plugs, correct? Did you check OVP? Pull the OVP and check that the fuse, or fuses if you have the one with 2 fuses, aren't blown, then start the car with OVP on and while its running, disconnect it. See if there is a change in idle

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1990 190E 3.0L

It actually ran with them and the huge gap! Just ran reaallllll bad haha.

I've messed with an OVP I pulled and the one that was in it. But I haven't tried pulling it while the car was on yet. Changing what I believe is a dead primary fuel pump.

If the rotor and cap are new then next check for a clogged exhaust ,easily checked with a vacuum gauge.
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Replace the OVP.
Put a can of Seafoam thru it on a low tank, so its a pretty heavy dose.
If that does not get it..
Do a fuel pressure and output test, then test each fuel line for output and volume.
Ps2cho did this and he has a step by step on his website,

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2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

I found that our 420 had a fuel supply problem, it too would die, turned out to be the fuel filter in the fuel distributor.
the car would start and run but when you put your foot on the accelerator the engine would shutter and die.

So instead of a new thread, I'm going to pop this one up.

The story:
Car is running great for a week or so. Driving to a friends house and as I'm turning into his driveway (a right turn) the car just sputters and dies. Coast into a spot, crank it up, and it fires with no problem or hesitation. Go to make the block and make sure its all good, and once again dies when turning.

Come back to the car a couple days later and discover that it is immediately dying when turning right even at like 5mph, but left turns will only "sort of" kill it. Accelerates in a straight line strong with no problems.

So I get my dad to follow me home as I try to limp it so I can have regular access to it for whatever the repair is. As we're driving home (over the course of maybe 30 minutes) it starts to die in a straight line as well. Was barely making it a half a block by the end! But always cranks right back up! About the only thing that wont kill it is sitting idling. Sometimes when starting, the idle is very high ~2500rpms. I know these cars are very sensitive to vacuum leaks and I'm curious if I should start there?

I should mention for a good 10 minutes of that leg home it was not dying but sputtering while still running (could only go about 40 and had to continuously feather the throttle) but after I came down from a highrise, it just evened itself back out, like nothing was wrong. This really perplexed me and leads me to think something other then vacuum.

Any suggestions are appreciated, even if they are rare or oddball.

Crank position sensor.

The sensor picks up a feed from the rear of the engine under the oil filter. There is a cable that goes to the EZL. You can measure the resistance of the cable. Cool and hot it should be between around 800 - 1100 ohms. If the engine stops measure the resistance of the cable straight away - they breakdown under heat.



Don't put those platinum plugs back in. Keep the coppers gapped to .08mm.
Make sure your fuel filter are changed - there are two - one back by the fuel pumps and the other in the input to the Fuel distributor.
If your Crank Posi sensor checks out O.K. check your coil.
Of course you have changed your Fuel Pump Relay? These will fail and give exactly the symptoms you have described.

Ah I never thought of the CPS.

Ya the coppers are staying in.
Rear filter is changed, wasn't aware of the front one!
Coil could def. be the culprit as well, it was on the list of things to check.
Grabbed a fuel pump relay out of another 190 when I bought the car, have tried it with both. OVP is also newer twin fuse style, although not "brand new."

Thanks!