722.600 versus 722.605 in C230 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Fuzzball · #1 02-08-2015, 12:30 AM

Hey smart people,

I have a 98 W202 C230 with 171,000 and if I'm to believe all that I've read, I blew the planetary in the transmission. Also based upon what I've read, the tranny for this model year is 722.600.

I went to the WrenchAPart today and snagged a tranny from a 99 C230 Kompressor. The donating vehicle looked nice, black metallic paint with no fading. The interior was very clean. It was also a Sport model. The tranny is a 722605 0 and also has 2102701701 on the id badge.

It also has the number R 140 271 26 01.

I've read that if I put in a transmission that is of a different gear assembly that I can have the computer cause problems.

I think I got a good one, but would like some knowledgeable comment and backup.

Thanks everyone,

Kevin

Hirnbeiss · #2 02-08-2015, 09:36 AM

I did some advanced googling on the subject, and it doesn't sound like you should run into any problems. But, the car could behave differently if it has taller gearing (important on a baby engine like the 230), and there may be differences in the torque converter as well.

97 SL320 · #3 02-08-2015, 10:32 AM

The R 140 number is a casting number, it does not mean much beyond it is a rear drive trans ( and not 4 matic )

I don't see much difference between the two trans. There might be subtle valve body differences ( maybe slightly firmer / quicker shifts ) but most of the differences are probably in the trans computer. ( Located under the passengers feet, pull the rug back and unbolt the angled foot pan. )

MAVA · #4 02-08-2015, 08:44 PM

Here is the scoop:

A) 722.600 has less friction count than 722.650. Since you are dealing with the same engine you will not have issues.

B) Any valve body from +98 to current generation 722.6 will work with any engine(I4,I6,V8 & V12). 96 & 97 722.6 valve bodies will not work with +98 TCU's. The shifts are determined by the TCU software.

The wisest thing you can do, so your work and effort does not go in vain is to replace:

A) K2 copper bearing as that is the reason yours failed. It would be really dumb not to change it.

Input Shaft Bushing - 68410-01 - Sonnax

B) Next, Change the pump bushing and stator bushing

Pump Bushing - 68004-01 - Sonnax

Rear Pump Stator Bushing - 68915-01 - Sonnax

C) Change this guy out too:

Regulating Pressure Control Valve Spring - 68942-01 - Sonnax

D) Lastly, do put a new torque converter as it contains frictions. They are $150 to $220 for the 722.6 rebuilt. The brand is CVC, and What ever it takes sells them. They will need your core.

Torque Converters Distributors Page - Consolidated Vehicle Converters, Remanufacturing Torque Converters for Automatic Transmissions

Here is the service manual, and right click and save-as..

http://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/722.6.pdf

Exploded Diagram:

http://www.jpat.co.uk/60%20Mercedes%202A%20722.6.pdf

Hope it helps,

Martin

Fuzzball · #5 02-08-2015, 11:57 PM

Thanks for the input everyone.

Martin, it looks like you've given me what I'm going to need to get this on the road and working for a long time.

Just one question:

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAVA

Here is the scoop:

A) K2 copper bearing as that is the reason yours failed. It would be really dumb not to change it.

Input Shaft Bushing - 68410-01 - Sonnax

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Hope it helps,

Martin

Since this transmission is from a '99 model, is this still a bad part? That looks like getting really deep into the guts of the tranny, something I'm not so sure I'm qualified to do. My brother, maybe, but me, hmmmm....

Just wanted to be sure that the newer tranny wasn't already fixed.

Thanks again for your help!

Kevin

MAVA · #6 02-09-2015, 11:55 PM

Kevin,

I know there is some reservation, but it is a real gamble if you do not change it. Now, you could be right on the 99 transmission being updated. The sign is the donor car would have a touch shifter with the + and - on D, or no interlock port at the back.

I will give you a quickie on how to get access to the K2 bushing bearing.

A) remove all the torx bolts on the inside outside parameter inside the bell housing. Like the video at 30second mark

B) Remove the screw in the circular electrical connector on the side of the transmission
C) remove the oil pan
D) remove the torx screws holding the valve body, and the valve body itself
E) Remove the two large torx bolts behind the bell housing

F) lay two two-foot 2x4's about 10" apart
G) Lay the transmission the bell on the 2x4's, but the shaft in the center of the 2x4's
H) you may need to bang on the transmission with a rubber mallet right where the bell mates to the body. You may need to pry it alittle on the little half-moon on the bottom
I) then you can lift the rear. Do NOT remove the rear nut like in the video at 2:45. It will be heavy. Have someone help you.
J)The K2 is inside the center of the drum that is on the table.

See this video. it is very poor in quality, but it will make sense. The transmission in the video is a 722.6 out of I4 or I6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YySiJhiy_8

Now, I can offer you some pictures of one of the many 722.6 rebuilds I have done, and the 722.6 is the easiest to DIY rebuild of any modern transmissions. I have 800 to 900 pictures on the 722.6, and I can email you a section of them, or you can send me a 16gig flash drive, and I can load all the pictures of the rebuilds with literature, and you decide.

Martin