Sway Bar bushings question (Front) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

85 DSEL · #1 07-09-2015, 07:42 AM

Guys, I'm getting ready to replace the inner and outer SB bushings on the front of the '95 W124 wagon. I know that I read someplace that the hardware that is used to contain said bushings - straps, bolts, nuts, etc. - are one-time use items. Am I dreaming this or not? I can't seem to find any of these parts listed on Pelican so was wondering if they are exclusive MB Parts Dept items? Any other tip(s) on doing the job is appreciated

Dale

Stretch · #2 07-09-2015, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

Guys, I'm getting ready to replace the inner and outer SB bushings on the front of the '95 W124 wagon. I know that I read someplace that the hardware that is used to contain said bushings - straps, bolts, nuts, etc. - are one-time use items. Am I dreaming this or not? I can't seem to find any of these parts listed on Pelican so was wondering if they are exclusive MB Parts Dept items? Any other tip(s) on doing the job is appreciated

Dale

Here's a link to Pelican's offerings

1995 Mercedes-Benz E300 Diesel Sedan - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 4

This system seems to me to be pretty weak. I've read lots of threads where the brackets break - I have a theory that this is because they have been fitted with the front end up in the air =>

If you look at how the anti-roll bar is attached to the front lower control arms and how the two inboard chassis brackets are fitted - and then note how spindly these brackets are it seems to my MK1 "mechanical" eyeball that tightening with the wheels up in the air is gonna cause trouble because the front wheels droop down and in when up in the air.

So my advice is to fit the anti-roll bar on the front with the wheels on the ground. If for some other reason the car has just been up in the air roll the car back and forth so the true driving position of the front end is settled.

Please note - in order to align the W124 / W201 chassis the front anti-roll bar needs to be loose. It then gets tightened once the adjustments have been made. If in your case you remove the anti-roll bar replace the bushings and fit it back in place and the alignment seems a bit out - you might have loose bushings in your lower control arms which have moved during this fix to a less than desirable position. So the message is you might be making more work for yourself!

As for fit only once parts - I'm pretty sure that will be the self locking nuts not the brackets.

Stretch · #3 07-09-2015, 08:01 AM

Oh yeah getting the bushings back on - use something like KJ jelly (water based lubricant)

And if you feel the urge to read the FSM - there's a link in my signature that might help (so long as you use MS explorer and have a shockwave player installed)

85 DSEL · #4 07-09-2015, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Here's a link to Pelican's offerings

1995 Mercedes-Benz E300 Diesel Sedan - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 4

This system seems to me to be pretty weak. I've read lots of threads where the brackets break - I have a theory that this is because they have been fitted with the front end up in the air =>

If you look at how the anti-roll bar is attached to the front lower control arms and how the two inboard chassis brackets are fitted - and then note how spindly these brackets are it seems to my MK1 "mechanical" eyeball that tightening with the wheels up in the air is gonna cause trouble because the front wheels droop down and in when up in the air.

So my advice is to fit the anti-roll bar on the front with the wheels on the ground. If for some other reason the car has just been up in the air roll the car back and forth so the true driving position of the front end is settled.

Please note - in order to align the W124 / W201 chassis the front anti-roll bar needs to be loose. It then gets tightened once the adjustments have been made. If in your case you remove the anti-roll bar replace the bushings and fit it back in place and the alignment seems a bit out - you might have loose bushings in your lower control arms which have moved during this fix to a less than desirable position. So the message is you might be making more work for yourself!

As for fit only once parts - I'm pretty sure that will be the self locking nuts not the brackets.

I have seen the brackets you link to but those are not the ones I was considering! I was referring to the "C" shaped brackets that wrap around the sb to attach it to the frame and the bracket you reference as well. The bolts and nuts that are used to attach them are those I was also referring.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Oh yeah getting the bushings back on - use something like KY

jelly (water based lubricant)

And if you feel the urge to read the FSM - there's a link in my signature that might help (so long as you use MS explorer and have a shockwave player installed)

Unfortunately for this, I gave up MS computer-ing several years ago and am a happy LinuxMint user

Thank you for your pointers on this project, especially your insight into placing the wheels on the ground to reinstall the bar.

Stretch · #5 07-09-2015, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

... I gave up MS computer-ing several years ago and am a happy LinuxMint user

...

Ah - a sensible person - who will have no trouble with this project!

I can cook up a direct link for you to the PDF if you want one that will allow LINUX access...

85 DSEL · #6 07-09-2015, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Ah - a sensible person - who will have no trouble with this project!

I can cook up a direct link for you to the PDF if you want one that will allow LINUX access...

LOL! Thanks for the vote of confidence!

A direct link would be nice, thank you Sir

Stretch · #7 07-10-2015, 02:29 AM

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12264/disc_2/Program/Chassis/32-0300.pdf

(It says to do the job in the air - I don't agree as explained before!)

Ferdman · #8 07-10-2015, 05:32 AM

85 DSEL, replace the front sway bar bushings with the front wheels on ramps, or a stack of 2" x 6" wood. When I replaced the front sway bar bushings on our 124 cars I reused the bolts and nuts. Don't see where the bolting is so critical that it is a one-time use item. I have had a bracket break, and replaced both brackets at that time.

85 DSEL · #9 07-10-2015, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12264/disc_2/Program/Chassis/32-0300.pdf

(It says to do the job in the air - I don't agree as explained before!)

Thanks for the link Stretch. Great diagram. Question: does the bar come forward when removing it? Seems it would have to since the tires are still mounted and on the 'ground'...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferdman

85 DSEL, replace the front sway bar bushings with the front wheels on ramps, or a stack of 2" x 6" wood. When I replaced the front sway bar bushings on our 124 cars I reused the bolts and nuts. Don't see where the bolting is so critical that it is a one-time use item. I have had a bracket break, and replaced both brackets at that time.

Well, that's two people saying to leave the wheels on the ground and I will take that advice as it appears you both have experience! As far as the hardware, you're probably correct aboout the nuts and bolts but I figure they're just 'pennies' to purchase from the dealer and I just "feel" better doing it. I may go ahead and order the brackets from Pelican as I should have done last week when I ordered my coil packs and the bushings!

Stretch · #10 07-10-2015, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

Thanks for the link Stretch. Great diagram. Question: does the bar come forward when removing it? Seems it would have to since the tires are still mounted and on the 'ground'...

...

It shouldn't do that if the anti-roll bar was fitted with the wheels on the ground!

Seriously mine didn't move when I took it off the front of my W201 - well not that I noticed - nothing that my MK1 eye ball noticed...

85 DSEL · #11 07-10-2015, 02:09 PM

This thing about leaving the wheels on the ground has me scratching my balding headbone...Will there not be some load on that wascal when the nuts and brackets are removed? I mean, it's kinda....cocked!?!

Stretch · #12 07-10-2015, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

This thing about leaving the wheels on the ground has me scratching my balding headbone...Will there not be some load on that wascal when the nuts and brackets are removed? I mean, it's kinda....cocked!?!

If you are at all worried about it just undo the two inboard parts on the spindly brackets first

85 DSEL · #13 07-11-2015, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

If you are at all worried about it just undo the two inboard parts on the spindly brackets first

Well I just thought that someone who has been there before could give a more direct answer to my question!

Stretch · #14 07-11-2015, 07:28 AM

Not a good / clear answer?

If so I mean the outer shell-like bracket parts that fit around the inboard bushings.

Better?

85 DSEL · #15 07-11-2015, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Not a good / clear answer?

If so I mean the outer shell-like bracket parts that fit around the inboard bushings.

Better?

By golly, I think I GOT it!