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  #1  
Old 01-10-2016, 09:34 PM
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W124 Rear control arm bushing

Hey guys,

So I am replacing my inner rear control arm bushing. I unfortunately have mangled one in my press. It was going in straight, but the outer metal just ended up bending out.
I was using a 1" socket and its an identical size....I think the metals just very thin on that bushing.

Has anybody else replaced this bushing and can tell me any tips or how you did it?

(This is NOT the carrier arm bushing, its the INSIDE bushing of the lower control arm -- its the "Trailing Arm bushing" 202-352-00-65)

Thanks,

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  #2  
Old 01-10-2016, 11:35 PM
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Did you freeze it first?

I read that it is something important

I am currently studying the topic in order to replace same on my 95 wagon. My rear tires are being eaten fast.

good luck!
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2016, 09:04 AM
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I didn't. I will freeze the other one I have and see if I can make it work using that. If not, I can order two more since I have to replace the one I mangled anyway now.

There doesn't seem to be an MB tool for this one and the way the bushing is, you can't just press it in flat because the rubber would split.
If someone who has replaced this one can tell me what they used that would definitely be helpful!

I also believe part of the issue could have been that my HF press twists under load. I've read there is a "washer" fix for it that eliminates this and I will get at doing that to strengthen it.

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  #4  
Old 01-11-2016, 09:25 AM
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Here's what I did

Removal =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3265735-post349.html

Fitting method #1 =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299109-post397.html

Fitting method #2 =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299114-post398.html

Each link goes to an individual post - I don't like the way this site displays these URLs it gives the impression I'm pointing to the same whole huge thread
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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  #5  
Old 01-11-2016, 12:18 PM
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Thanks! that gives me some great ideas.

Would HD or Lowes carry the threaded rods and thick washers? I haven't tried anything like that before.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2016, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Thanks! that gives me some great ideas.

Would HD or Lowes carry the threaded rods and thick washers? I haven't tried anything like that before.
I've heard the name of those shops and they seem to get mentioned for similar subjects but I can't tell you for sure!

Any hardware shop / (home) DIY shop should be able to sell you threaded rod, nuts and washers.

Metric or otherwise doesn't really matter - just be aware that for automotive repairs as in using this hardware on a vehicle that the strength of these parts is not always up to scratch. 8.8 grade stuff is usually the minimum strength stuff for cars. Putting on 4.4 isn't a good idea. Still for the purpose of making a DIY press the use of lower grade stuff isn't so important - it will just strip a lot quicker. Keep cheap fasteners and junk like that well away from automotive spares!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2016, 01:28 PM
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Excellent. I'll get one made. I was also about to purchase the Tool to get the carrier bushing done, but after looking, I might be able to do this same technique.
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2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2016, 01:39 PM
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More tips are given in "that thread" at about the same place. If you want I can assemble all of the information in an easier to read thread and make a W201 / W124 suspension refresh thread.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2016, 04:44 PM
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I got myself two spring arms for my w124 from the junkyard to replace the bushings before install. I used the method stretch shows in his posts but I froze the bushings and heated up the metal slightly to assist it going in.
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2016, 03:37 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Here's what I did

Removal =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3265735-post349.html

Fitting method #1 =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299109-post397.html

Fitting method #2 =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299114-post398.html

Each link goes to an individual post - I don't like the way this site displays these URLs it gives the impression I'm pointing to the same whole huge thread
Why do these links send me to tire choice threads? I am using tapatalk. Weird.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:25 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atypicalguy View Post
Why do these links send me to tire choice threads? I am using tapatalk. Weird.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
I dunno.

The links go to where they should with my old fashioned computer. I don't use swipy things for connecting to the internet.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-12-2016, 09:21 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 3,525
Worked great! The threaded rod seemed to REALLY struggling the last 1", so thats when I put it back in the press and it got it easy. The rod I bought didn't say any rating on it, so maybe it wasn't super strong.

Either way it got the job done!







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2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2016, 08:00 PM
AKA PDXtyler
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 18
I just had the machine shop that resurfaced my head press-in new inner trailing arm bushings ($20ea). Unfortunately upon reassembly I noticed one of the new bushings was rotating freely once the arm was tightened. Just a little irritating.

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