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  #16  
Old 09-22-2016, 05:59 PM
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Thanks everyone for all the input so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhennig View Post
I am stocking up on all the parts for an "underside revamp" like yours. My policy is MB original or Lemfoerder ONLY.
Yeah, I'm leaning heavily towards some Lemforder parts, as well. It would be nice to be able to say I only used Genuine OE parts, but the cost savings to be had in the aftermarket are not insignificant, and Lemforder parts are by most (if not all) accounts nearly as good as the real thing. Of course, there is probably more money to be saved with other brands, but I think the consensus is that quality decreases sharply as well.

I will probably also be using Bilstein for the struts and shocks, and maybe even the steering damper. If need to replace exhaust components, I will probably go aftermarket as well, as the price differential between OE and OEM is even more drastic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhennig View Post
The only seriously costly parts were the lower control arms at €410 each. The Sportline spec arms are not available from Lemfoerder.
Does Mercedes sell Sportline LCAs? Do you have a part number? I thought the only option was to buy the regular control arms & press on the Sportline bushings. For this reason, I was leaning toward Lemforder LCAs, but if I can buy LCAs from MBZ with the Sportline bushings already pressed in, then the savings from not having to rent or buy the tool will offset the extra cost a bit, to say nothing about the time and frustration saved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
Bimmer-Bob, if you are handy and creative you could probably devise a tool with all-thread and structural shapes to remove/reinstall the sub-frame bushings. It's all a matter of time and the cost of that approach vs. transporting the sub-frame to a tech.
The problem is, I don't think I'm that handy! I've never pressed a bushing in or out before, which is why I'm a little worried about it. Looking online, it seems like it's just a matter of turning a socket, but if it were that easy then people wouldn't fuss about it so much - right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Break it up in chunks and tackle like a weekends worth at a time has been my philosophy as of late. I've Benz there done that as they say. I also try to group up projects that kinda go together by proximity.

The list of jobs needed to be done to my '92 300D is still a bit longer than the jobs that i have already done to bring the car back up as close to original comfort as can be.

Jobs done so far list includes: Glow plugs, new injectors, flex disc, turbo wastegate, shocks/struts, center console wood refinish, headlight bezel, hood pad, new water pump and thermostat, coolant flush

and most recently a full front end refresh including: Wheel bearings, brakepads, brake fluid flush, ball joints, sway bar bushings, LCA bushings, strut mounts, spring pads, tie rods, center link, idle arm bushings, steering damper, alignment.

I tried my best to go ahead and do as much of the front end "while i was in there" as i could think of. wish that i would have done brake rotors too during this but those are not difficult to go back to now. i can say from what i know now the front end is 100% DIYable... the bushing, the bearings and all in your garage.
Also a '92 300D here - glad to know I'm not the only crazy person trying to fix everything on this old car at the same time!

Right now I am leaning toward the divide and conquer approach. Probably the front end for a few days in my garage, then head over to the Auto Hobby shop and get the car on a lift Friday, Saturday, and Sunday to try and knock out the rear end. Then drive the 50 miles to the nearest dealer on a Monday for the alignment to 300E Sportline specs (assuming the toe and such isn't too out of whack).

Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
I have never done anything to my steering box, is yours actually leaking? I will be putting a rebuilt steering box into my brother's car but only reason for that versus rebuilding it myself is he got it for $100 and it was bought by the guy he got it from through MBUSA (guy worked in parts department, owned a 6.9).
The original steering box on my car does have a slow leak, but I'm not worried about it. I recently acquired a Sportline steering box, and I'm wondering if I should have it rebuilt before I swap it in. The PO claimed it wasn't leaking, but I'd hate to go through all the trouble to find out he was wrong, or to have it start leaking 6 months down the lie. Also, besides leaking, I'm not sure if there is any other indication for rebuilding - is there general age- or wear-related slop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
If I were to break up the jobs, I would probably do front end then rear end. You may not have thought about it but this would be a good time to do the parking brake shoes, or at least adjust them. This would be done after putting the subframe back on the car.
I will probably break it up into sections like you suggest, but do the jobs back-to-back in order to minimize downtime (and to avoid having to get aligned twice). Parking brakes are on my mental list, but on the back burner for now. I'm waiting until it's time to do brakes, then I will do pads and rotors all the way around, plus rear wheel bearings (fronts are done) and the parking brake shoes.

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  #17  
Old 09-22-2016, 07:24 PM
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A note on big jobs. Unless one is a pro mechanic in a shop, clean , repair , paint parts _as they come off the car_ rather than taking everything apart at once. It is far easier to take a car apart than it is to repair / reinstall. Many cars have fallen to " Car all apart for restoration, lost interest, best offer. "

Restoring single parts ( or small batches as skills progress ) leaves one with continual visible progress, and parts on the shelf ready to go.
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  #18  
Old 09-22-2016, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
A note on big jobs. Unless one is a pro mechanic in a shop, clean , repair , paint parts _as they come off the car_ rather than taking everything apart at once. It is far easier to take a car apart than it is to repair / reinstall. Many cars have fallen to " Car all apart for restoration, lost interest, best offer. "

Restoring single parts ( or small batches as skills progress ) leaves one with continual visible progress, and parts on the shelf ready to go.
Thanks for the tip. I had actually considered the implications of getting carried away with tear down. I will try to do it in sections, and probably take some pictures before and during so that I can keep track of what goes where.
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2016, 11:40 AM
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I haven't noticed any slop in the steering box of my 205K mile 190E Sportline, though my 190D with 320k miles on it did have a tiny bit of slop. The W123 boxes seem to wear out much quicker, I wouldn't be worried about these being worn out, but it may be worth hooking it up with the engine running but it not in place to see if it leaks or to just reseal it anyway. They aren't incredibly difficult to remove, biggest pain it the tie rods so having a Mercedes style separator would probably prove to be very useful.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.
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  #20  
Old 09-23-2016, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
I haven't noticed any slop in the steering box of my 205K mile 190E Sportline, though my 190D with 320k miles on it did have a tiny bit of slop. The W123 boxes seem to wear out much quicker, I wouldn't be worried about these being worn out, but it may be worth hooking it up with the engine running but it not in place to see if it leaks or to just reseal it anyway. They aren't incredibly difficult to remove, biggest pain it the tie rods so having a Mercedes style separator would probably prove to be very useful.
I may just reseal the box myself, still looking for a good DIY. For the tie rod separator, is that something I need if I intend to its replace the entire tie for in one piece? i.e., not just the ends?
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  #21  
Old 09-24-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
I may just reseal the box myself, still looking for a good DIY. For the tie rod separator, is that something I need if I intend to its replace the entire tie for in one piece? i.e., not just the ends?
You need it either way. You will also need a ball joint separator to get the steering knuckles off.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.
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  #22  
Old 09-24-2016, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
You need it either way. You will also need a ball joint separator to get the steering knuckles off.
Thanks for the heads up. I haven't gone through the FSM with a fine-toothed comb yet (this is realistically starting to look like a spring project, instead of a winter one), but I definitely appreciate any pearls or tips, especially concerning special tools or challenging bits.

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