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  #16  
Old 05-07-2017, 08:19 PM
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Get an 8.5mm in there and get it out, cause the clutch will need to be replaced eventually.

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  #17  
Old 05-07-2017, 08:32 PM
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right angle pneumatic drill.....should have enough room w/ the rad out of the way. might need a specialty bit (shorter) but once you drill off the head (pita) the clutch will come off. then you can get something on the shank of the bolt to extract the rest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taeandji View Post
I know i can leave the viscous fan clutch as attached now to pull the head from the engine but it bothers me knowing that the bolt is stripped....
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  #18  
Old 05-08-2017, 05:09 AM
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Clock wise or anti clock wise ,thats the question ...
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  #19  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:23 AM
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The bolt gets removed counter clockwise, clock wise to tighten, in the tool picture someone posted the neiko tool bits usually get that bolt out even if its stripped, after you get the tool locked into place i use two long wrenched to keep bit parallel to bolt and keep applying pressure until it comes loose, or at worst you just drill off the head but of course the area has to be clear ie removed condenser
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2017, 12:46 PM
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Can i use tap wrench to drill the hole and use one of thouse retractor bit from hanson or neiko?

If so, what size of drill bit do i need to use for that m10 bolt?
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  #21  
Old 05-08-2017, 01:33 PM
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use a right angle drill and you don't have to remove the condenser. drill off the head like i suggested in my previous post (which apparently went un-read)......if you don't have air use one of these>>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-3-8-Close-Quarter-Angle-Drill-0370-20-New/112388383348?_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Dd682b24936164d9685a419333 f849783%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26


i also have a brand new viscous clutch (and a used one or six) if you happen to wreck the old one in the process
Quote:
Originally Posted by taeandji View Post
Can i use tap wrench to drill the hole and use one of thouse retractor bit from hanson or neiko?

If so, what size of drill bit do i need to use for that m10 bolt?
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  #22  
Old 05-08-2017, 05:31 PM
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i will give it a try!
BTW, if i don't remove the viscous clutch, can i still turn the motor to TDC?
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  #23  
Old 05-08-2017, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taeandji View Post
i will give it a try!
BTW, if i don't remove the viscous clutch, can i still turn the motor to TDC?
unrelated. you turn the motor via the crankshaft bolt. you should have a better view of the index mark with it out of the way but it doesn't have to come off
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  #24  
Old 05-08-2017, 05:43 PM
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ok but i'm having difficulties with turning the motor to TDC... it stock at 0200 mark and won't turn.... any ideas? gear is in N position.
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  #25  
Old 05-08-2017, 08:01 PM
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Leave the fan clutch issue alone, deal with it when the clutch or fan mount bearing needs changed.

If you have the head off, the timing chain is probably wrapped around / jammed on the crank sprocket causing a bind.
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  #26  
Old 05-08-2017, 08:07 PM
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i think he's taken the radiator out. since it's stripped he might should do it now that he has more room.
i also assumed the head was still on but if not, you're probably spot on
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Leave the fan clutch issue alone, deal with it when the clutch or fan mount bearing needs changed.

If you have the head off, the timing chain is probably wrapped around / jammed on the crank sprocket causing a bind.
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"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
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Centrally located in North East Central Pa.
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  #27  
Old 05-08-2017, 09:25 PM
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still head is on and trying to turn the motor at TDC (I'm not doing anything to the strippted bolt yet) before I remove the chain tensioner and the head. I'm manually turning the motor with 20-inch 1/2" ratchet and 27mm socket but for some reason i can't turn more... it got stuck at 0200 mark.
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  #28  
Old 05-08-2017, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogweed View Post
i think he's taken the radiator out. since it's stripped he might should do it now that he has more room.
i also assumed the head was still on but if not, you're probably spot on
correct, i removed the radiator for additional clearance as I was going to work on removing the stripped bolt but i'm gonna have to remove the head first so i can send it to machine shop and will work on the stripped bolt.
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  #29  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:28 PM
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i would be using a longer breaker bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taeandji View Post
still head is on and trying to turn the motor at TDC (I'm not doing anything to the strippted bolt yet) before I remove the chain tensioner and the head. I'm manually turning the motor with 20-inch 1/2" ratchet and 27mm socket but for some reason i can't turn more... it got stuck at 0200 mark.
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James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.
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  #30  
Old 05-09-2017, 07:07 PM
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The motor should easily turn with that length bar so something else is binding. If coolant is entering a cylinder from a failed head gasket, you have hydrolock. Pull the spark plugs to vent fluid.

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