1. Getting ready to change one of my rear wheel bearings on my 87 190E. I’m going to change the 2 boots and re-grease the ball cages too while I’m in that area.

2. I got the special tools: remover made by Sir Tool, the 30 mm socket, in-hex bit for removing the old and socket for the new locking screw to do this job.

3. Got the parts: bearing kit, boot kit, extra boot and extra locking rings (for outer cage assembly).

4. I have the following questions:
. a. Before pressing the new bearing into the wheel carrier do I use any type of grease between them? If yes can I use the one that came with the boot kit? The reason I ask is the repair manual does not say to and the bearing kit did not come with any, but my instincts tells me I should because it gets hot down there and it’s metal to metal.
. b. For the ball cages I see no problem with the inner assembly as fair as cleaning, re-greasing and changing the boot. What about the outer assembly (nearest to the wheel side), was this side meant to be taken apart for cleaning, re-greasing and changing of the boot too, from the diagrams on the repair manual looks like it’s “factory sealed” unit, the only thing I can see is just changing the boot on this particular side. If repairs can be done could youall advised on how to take this side apart?
. c. What’s everyone technical answer on cleaning, re-greasing and changing of the boots should it be left alone unless it’s leaking, ripped or shows signs on rubber deteriorations (the vehicle has over 220K).
. d. On the hose/boot clamps that came in the kit I see that MB went back to the original type that was installed from the factory and not the “screw on” type as you would a radiator hose as illustrated on the repair manual. My question is do I need a special tool to clamp this? I have not gone down there to look how the originals are installed but looking at the new parts thought I get a heads up on it.
. e. What is the torque on the double hex collar nut? The reason I ask is the repair manual say 280-320 Nm. What does it mean by this pick what ever I want in between? (I’m a torque fanatic).
. f. Is the sealing compound “Loctite 574” same as Loctite 5900 and/or MB part # 002-989-73-20-10?


Sounds like a lot of nitty-gritty but I’m a enthusiast like youall are,
Thai GI sends...

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GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

1. The only update to this is the “Loctite 574”, after research I found out that it is easily available in Europe and wow I’m station in the UK right now, will look for local source in the yellow pages.

2. As for the crimping/clamping tool for the boot clamps no luck, after some research I ruled out some of the Stahlwille tools and also it’s not the “CLIC” or “DBGM” type found in VW or Audi. These are one time use crimp/clamp it on and cut off when remove.

Still looking,
Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

Hi,

the bands that go on the CV joint boots, you will have to describe them. There are two types that I am familiar with. When I bought mine from mercedes, they were the ones that you pinch together. However you can buy ones that you pull them tight. They each take a different tool. The pinch tool you can buy from SNAPON. That is where I got mine. Most autoparts stores have them or rent them. They are called CV joint clamp pliers.

I looked up the specs for the colar nut (double hexagon nut), according to the W124 service manual library available from mercedes, it says 200-240 Nm. I would Say 240 is good.

You should get a W201 CD if you can, they are really helpful.

I am actually about to put in new rear bearings on my brothers 300E, but I havent attempted it yet. We have the whole subframe torn apart. I can send you pictures of my CV joint pliers if you want.

I replaced my half shafts on my 83 300CD because all the boots were broken and it was cheaper to buy new half shafts from napa, but unfortunately, NAPA didnt do a good job with the cv clamps so I had to get mercedes ones and the tool and I redid them. I would insist on buying mercedes parts for your CV joints: clamps, grease, and the boots. I will warn you, it is quite a job to work on the CV joints and the half axles, it usually takes two people. Id only replace them if they were broken like mine.

I dont think that you should apply grease between the bearing and the carrier. Metal to metal is what you want for that. From my mercedes CD, it looks like there are a lot of specialty tools required, so maybe it would be better to have a dealer or house do it for you. I am actually thinking about having someone do them for me. The cd manual says to put some grease on the collar nut, then tighten it and lock it into place. Thats the only part in the intructions where I saw apply grease for the wheel bearing installation.

If you need more help, I can look stuff up on the CD.

Thanks,

Austin

1. Thanks for your reply.

2. I do have the CD and the original manual from Mercedes-Benz. Also have the special tools to do the job.

3. I always use Mercedes-Benz parts; I have access to the wholesale price at the dealer through MBCA. I made the mistake with NAPA parts about 10 years ago when I brought my first Benz. It don’t fit in perfect and messed things up around it, all the other parts had to be replaced after a few months.

4. Well I already started the job today, I got to get it done for inspections by Thursday or I have to pay again, it failed because of the bearings. So I went with the wait till it broke option on the boots for right now. I got to do it soon on my 260E however because it leaking a little.

5. On base we have a thing call Auto Hobby shop basically it’s like a workshop with tools, lifts, tire changing balancing equipment just like a car repair place would. You pay by the hour and additional if you buy parts and/or lubricants. It’s a cool concept I think they had these back in the days like that movie “Christine”. I usually do things in my driveway but today it was raining, glad I did because the lift came in handy.

6. About the tool, I made some inquiries to the different tool specialist, Samstag got back with me with what I needed the tool is made by Hazet part number 1847-1 see this: http://www.samstagsales.com/images/hz1847-1.jpg and http://www.samstagsales.com/images/hz1847-1jaw2.jpg

7. This is a big job I didn’t finish yet the car is still on the lift, I’ve got everything off, now I’m working on getting the part of the bearing off the flange because when you press it out the bearing brakes apart and half part of it comes off with the flange (this is suppose to happen). Mercedes makes a tool to pull this out, it’s like a collet type puller, I don’t have this and going to use a bearing splitter instead. Will go back tomorrow for round two!

Stay tuned
Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

1. Finished the job, it took 16 hours with 90% of the right tools.

2. Some of the things I remember that was worth mentioning are as follows:

. a. If you doing the passenger side (US model) to get the axle out, you must remove the exhaust (I wonder what those people still with the original exhaust system are going to do, it’s a one piece and must be cut!)
. b. The 6 bolts that holds the axle to the differential box has changed the old are in-hex and new are TORX bolts remember to get both tools to R/R.
. c. For R/R of the bearing holding ring make sure you got a big enough “inside circlip pliers” the ring is a big one and needs extra power to squeeze it close, mine was a 9’ and I still needed two pipes to make it longer for extra leverage.

Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

That's good that you did it. I actually did mine today too. I went to my mechanic to have it done. I took the subframe out of my car (1 hr), then I took off all the links( 1 hour), then I gave him the spindles only, took 3 hours to get the old bearings off, and put the new ones back in. The races got stuck on the hubs though, so we had to use the air hammer to get them off. Upload a picture of the finished product =).

Take care,

Austin

what is the size of the socket for colar nut (double hexagon nut) on the axle please? Thanks

30mm...see this post:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124RearWheelBearing

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Daily Driver: 02 E430 4MATIC
In the family: '03 E500 // '04 ML500 // 64 220SE

KD tool offers this tool

424
CV Joint Boot Clamp Pliers
For easy installation of Perma-Quick-type hose clamps on fuel filters, water pumps, other cooling hoses and CV joint boot clamps. Tool will work on late-model GM Super Boot. Its jaws crimp the clamp.
http://www.kd-tools.com/424.htm

Many local automotive parts stores sell KD tools.


Have a great day.

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Prototype R&D/testing:
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All you had to do was ask Markus:
http://www.mercedesclubs.de/cgi-bin/vdhforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=4500&forum=DCForumID1

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Prost!