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  #1  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:16 PM
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w210 broken ABS sensor ring

Right rear ABS sensor ring is broken.

As those of you who have seen this happen know, it causes all manner of intermittent problems with drivability.

Unfortunately Easter is a 4 day holiday for many businesses in this part of Canada, including parts warehouses and vendors. So I can't do much of anything about it until Tuesday now.

Questions:
1. Is the ring available as a stand alone part? I see it in Europe in the aftermarket. Not here.
2. Is it just better to change out,the entire axle?
3. Why does no one seem to list rear axles on the parts sites?
4. My mechanic pulled the main fuse for the traction control in the hopwsnit would help, and told me to switch off the TC as well. The fuse hasn't made any difference, and turning off the TC via the console switch made the car undrivable.

Any advice on any if this? Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 03-30-2018, 10:33 AM
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your best bet would be to replace that axle making sure to get a replacement with the reluctor ring (parts stores axles I saw had them)
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2018, 11:00 AM
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use a wire or paper clip to jump pin 1 and 6,it will turn off abs,and asr. on diagnostic connecter under hood
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2018, 11:02 AM
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here
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2018, 08:06 PM
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Unplug the affected wheel speed sensor. This should disable the ABS / ASR .

Please post the specific drivability symptoms as to help others.
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2018, 12:26 AM
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Dash warnings (lights on left side and center display warning) for ABS and brake assist illuminate after startup.Stability control illuminates as soon as the car moves a few feet.

Drivability symptoms (usually occur separately, though loss of drive and loss of power did happen together once)

- sudden loss of drive (car goes into neutral)
- car sticks in a gear, won't shift up or down
- loss of power, similar to 'limp home mode', accompanied by flashing traction control light on dash (yellow triangle with !)
- turning off the console switch for the traction control causes the ABS system to go insane, activating braking on alternate wheels at low speed

All of these are "cleared' by stopping the car, switching off the ignition and waiting a short time before.restarting. They may or may not recur after the restart.

Seem to occur only at speeds under 40 mph. I have been able to drive at secondary and main highway speeds,with no,issues (not that I recommend doing so).
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2018, 08:44 PM
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You've got other problems like a corroded ground. This seems to be a common problem on W210. In another post, someone lost engine computer operation. I'm pretty sure the grounds in question are on the passenger and driver side under the hood.

I'd unplug the ABS pump as well to see that happens.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Dash warnings (lights on left side and center display warning) for ABS and brake assist illuminate after startup.

With a stationary wheel, the sensor does not know that the ABS ring is cracked or even missing. The sensor is a wire wound round a magnet so a AC wave is generated while the wheel it turning. Worst case the wire is broken, however, this would just trip a circuit open code.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Stability control illuminates as soon as the car moves a few feet.

A cracked ABS ring could cause this but considering all the other issues I'd hold off on the ring for now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Drivability symptoms (usually occur separately, though loss of drive and loss of power did happen together once)

Loss of engine power would be the traction control pulling throttle out of the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
- sudden loss of drive (car goes into neutral)

The 722.6 trans will revert to 2nd gear in limp and not go to neutral even if you unplugged the trans electrical connector. The only way a false neutral might occur is if the line pressure solenoid drove pressure low but I don't know if line pressure will actually go that low.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
- car sticks in a gear, won't shift up or down

This would be the trans in limp, the last gear commanded is where the trans sits until engine stops.
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  #8  
Old 03-31-2018, 10:16 PM
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Location: West Quebec
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The ring is confirmed cracked, seen on a hoist. I kind of suspected I had more in play, but everything happened at once. Right now I pulled my w123 out of winter sleep and out it on the road.

Right now it appears the ring isnt available here as a stand alone part. It can be ordered on eBay, or direcrly, from UK vendors.

I haven't found the rear axles on any of the parts sites (My mechanic is on the fence whether it's worth it to replace the ring alone.)

Thanks for the input.
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #9  
Old 03-31-2018, 10:19 PM
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Just for info, the correct term for this part is apparently "reluctor ring," though in practice everyone calls it an ABS ring.
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #10  
Old 04-02-2018, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
here
Oldsinner, if that was supposed to be a link, it isn't working.
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2018, 01:31 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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To update this....

Problem was ABS ring, compounded by almost simultaneous failure of the brake light switch (not oem, likely URO). That switch can cause a pile of issues, based on what I have read on the forums.

Car is now normal. Note: remember that when the codes are cleared, you have to drive the car one km before the dash lights go off.

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