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  #16  
Old 03-23-2003, 04:54 PM
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another correction

It looks like my car has the crank sensor in the distributor and not the fly wheel, just found this out from the manual, same as the previous info, but where the sensor is depends on what ignition system you have.

xp

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  #17  
Old 03-23-2003, 05:09 PM
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I have got the ezl.
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  #18  
Old 03-23-2003, 06:32 PM
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ezl has the sensor at the fly wheel, TSZ has it at the distributor.

According to the manual that is, so you got the R16 resistor and all the other fancy stuff, I don't

and it still gives problems

xp
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2003, 06:55 PM
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mike j- so the cars that had this problem that came to my shop that we fixed by replacing the ovpr mean nothing?
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  #20  
Old 03-23-2003, 07:14 PM
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if it was the ovp, would the engine not start right back up?

why does it need a few minutes before it starts up again?

maybe that was a different problem then what I have.

xp
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  #21  
Old 03-23-2003, 09:49 PM
JRJ JRJ is offline
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I had similar problems with my 82 380SL cutting out as you describe at any time without warning including highway speeds then not restarting for minutes to hours. I followed the usual suspect repair list of OVP, Fuel Pump relay, fuel pump operation and connections, rotor distributor cap, under hood wiring connections as you have. The engine would crank easily, and the fuel pump was operating, but no spark. I replaced the ignition control module and the problem stopped. I do not know if your car has the same ignition module system. Good luck, this kind of problem is very frustrating.

I hope this helped
JRJ
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  #22  
Old 03-25-2003, 07:48 PM
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I'm going to start by checking my crank sensor, it's very worn, and it might be causing a problem, I'm hoping it's not the ignition module, they are rather pricey and a student like me probably can't afford it

xp
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2003, 08:10 PM
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I am with G-Benz and Mick, I'd bet on a fuel problem. I good hint is the tach itself. If it drops to zero when encountering this problem, the electronics have cut out. Fuel problems result in a working tach....all the way to zero. Drive it with a CIS test guage hooked up and see what happens.

Tinker
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  #24  
Old 03-26-2003, 08:18 PM
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Well the thing is the RPM gauge works fine until I put the car into neutral at which point it drops to 0.

I can't see if the car died or not by looking at the rpm gauge, it will still show the current rpm of the engine just slowly decrasing as if you were coasting to a stop. Even the economy gauge works fine also when I step on the gas, but there is no ignition and therfore and car will not respond.

I'm still hoping it will be just a broken wire.

xp
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  #25  
Old 03-28-2003, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tinker
I good hint is the tach itself. If it drops to zero when encountering this problem, the electronics have cut out. Fuel problems result in a working tach....all the way to zero. Drive it with a CIS test guage hooked up and see what happens.

Tinker
TY Tinker! I waited for a reply like this. Could a bad fuel relay cause this?
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  #26  
Old 03-28-2003, 10:34 PM
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No such luck in my case

car died on me twice today just like that, once refused to restart for quite some time

I took apart the ignition system and fixed up some bad looking wires, has not happened yet but I did not drive all that much either.

Got a few other problems to address as well before this baby is ready for racing he he.

xp
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  #27  
Old 03-29-2003, 09:57 AM
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pop a ovp in it.



Joe
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  #28  
Old 03-29-2003, 04:01 PM
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To answer mbshop, we are talking about a 190 with 2.3 litre M102 engine and KE fuel injection. This is a mechanical system with electonic aids. These aids are the idle speed control, cold start injector and electro-hydraulic actuator which fine tunes the mixture. If the OVP goes bad then the electronic aids don't work but the car usually still runs, unless it is badly out of tune or has some other fault. I cannot imagine this type of engine cutting out at speed because of the OVP - my 230TE ran fine for 6 months with an intermittent OVP.

Other engines, especially those with fully electronic fuel injection usually don't run at all if the OVP goes bad.
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  #29  
Old 03-29-2003, 06:04 PM
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Thanx Mick J

This is exactly why I'm not suspecting the OVP to be at fault and won't waste money on a new one at this point.

However, my problem still remains unsolved.....

If it will further convince anyone that this is not an OVP issue, I can pull it out, start my car, drive it home, park it on my driveway and shut it off, I did this before.

xp
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  #30  
Old 03-30-2003, 09:19 AM
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MB Road side assistance sez fuel pump relay is the culprit

I was on my way to work this morning after not having the car cut out on me for a day, but unfortunately, on the 15km stretch from my house to my work, my car died on my three times.

This got me very upset. Upon arriving at work, I did some reaserch, and I discovered the MB road side assistance number thanx to one of the posts here.

Since it is a free service, I gave them a try.

There was no hold time at all, which was amazing, cause that's what good customer service is all about.

I had to provide some information to a nice lady, she suggest a few options, and then she passed me onto Danny who was the mechanic in charge at that time, also no wait time.

I told Danny what my problem was, that the car dies on me without warning, at anytime and refuses to restart for a few minutes, Danny said that this looks like a fuel issue, and that it is very possible that the fuel pump relay is overheating, or that one of the temp sensors is giving an incorrect reading which causes the fuel to shut off to prevent damage to the car.

I also mentioned the ignition and he said that the ignition module will work as long as it works, but if it goes, it goes for good, so there is no need to consider it as a factor in this problem which takes a lot of weight off my chest since that part costs a fortune, well for now at least.

Amazignly enough, I am tempted to think that the bypass on the fuel pump which was done on my car before I bought it was done because of the same problem I am having now. I guess what I can try is to jump the fuel pump relay for the drive home and see what happens, after all, I put the fuel pump relay back into work, and it worked well for a while, maybe I should just get a new one and see what happens then.

Anyway, for now I'm gonna go and pull it ouf of my car and see if there is any signs of heat damage or anything like that, any signs of something out of the order.

I was wondering if anyone had a similar experiance, just to confirm my findings.

xp

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