I have to get a new relay...

Thanks for this thread, xp. Hope you don't mind me post my own troubles in it.

I was also sure that it wasn't the ovp because I changed mine after having some drivebility problems and abs out. It did fix it.

Didn't you already resolder your fuel pump relay, xp?

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'87 MBenz 190E 2,3 8vlv

No worries 190dee, this is what the threads are for, I just wish I got some more feedback, but unless this is a problem otherwise unheard of and I'm the lucky one who came across it first I guess I'll understand.

Anyway, the fuel pump relay issue I had before was that it was bypassed with crossed over wires under the electrical centre, I fixed that so that it works correctly, now, the fuel pump relay is overheating, and you can tell, there is a big burn mark under one of the switches, all black so I guess it's burnt, and this I'm being told causes the fuel pump to cut out and the engien not to restart until the relay cools down.

It's sort of like when the rev limiter kicks in and stops the fuel pump in order to protect your engine, but mine does it not just when I rev the enging to the max

anyway, I'm on my way to get a new relay now, we'll see what happens.

I'll keep you all posted.

xp

I just called the dealer to find out how much a new fuel pump relay is gonna cost me

I was quoted $250!!!!

so I said thank you and went to thepartsbin.com and got it for $100 (canadian!) along with some other parts I need anyway to fix those oil sensors....

xp

I know...I did also check for prices this morning. I know why road assisstance told you this needs to be replaced .

Seriously, this would make a lot of sense to me and my problem. I quess it's just to be a big boy and buy that pricy relay...I will still check with my service manual if I can test it before.

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'87 MBenz 190E 2,3 8vlv

We were having similar problems with our 1987 300e. Intermittent stopping for no reason and then Saturday the durn car just quit and would NOT start! Had it towed home. Today, my husband took the fuel relay out and there was a crack in one of the solder joints on the back. He soldered it back, put it back in the car and vroom! Started right up. Do you all think that this will be more than a temporary fix? Sure am glad to not have to shell out $100.00 or more for a new relay!

The information found here was very helpful.
http://ow.no/mb/w124/tech/engine%20and%20transmission/fuelpumprelay.html
Thanks!

I agree with G-Benz, it is most likely a fuel related issue, I doubt seriously that the CPS would fault intermittently. Most sensors like the CPS are all or nothing sensors.

A couple of good web sites are auto-solve.com/mech_inj and users.bigpond.com both explore the K-jetronic personality.

I fought a older 201 for awhile with a weird drivability issue that would stall, smoke black, skip and die. It would run fine with the CIS-E uplugged. OVP fixed it. (so much for benzs DM)



Joe

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Project Smoker, '87 603 powered wagon
Hauler, 96 CTD can you say torque?
Toy 73 Cougar xr7 convertible
Acme Automotive Inc.
Raleigh NC
919-881-0364

Well, originally I resoldered my fuel pump relay but even then there was a big burn mark on it. So for me this was a temporary fix, but I guess now it's just fried and overheats for some reason, so I am replacing it.

If the solder joint just cracked, but everything else is fine then it's as good a fix as any, you should be fine with something like that, I was for a while too

Now I drive my car on a paper clip, I bypass the fuel pump relay, it's not the safest and everytime I want to start or or stop the engine I have to pull the paperclip out since the pump runs even with ignition off, but it has not stalled yet, so this would confirm what road side assistance said.

My new fuel pump relay is on it's way, until then I will dirve the car only if I have to, which is to work twice a week with the paperclip bypass.

So in a few rods, this is not an ovp problem, ovp would not cause the car to die just like that, BUT many problems like this are related to the ovp, in my case maybe too, perhaps the ovp went bad previoulsy and caused the fuel pump relay to fry like that.

xp

I had the same problem with my 88 560sel. Replaced the fuel pump relay and it is running fine.

Don't fool around with this problem. When the engine stalled, you lose power steering and brake. It can be very dangerous driving without these two functions under certain road conditions. This is my personal experience living around mountainous area of CT.

The stalling happened once awhile at beginning. I thought it had something to do with rainy weather. Then the frequency increased dramatically. Within a week, I ended up have it towed. It could not go far enough before it stalled again.

Well, the new fuel pump relay is in, and so far the problem has not occured, but a new set of problems came up.

Funny thing is that when I drove my car every day it was perfect, now I let it sit in the garage for 5 days a week, since I only needed it twice a week for work, and I'm scared to go the 15km to work on those two days.

I hear this wha-wha-wha-wha noise coming from the back and I can't figure out where it's coming from. I took the driveshaft out, reassembled it with all the correct torques and specs, and nothing, it still makes that noise. Had one of the rotors resurfaced since I thought it was the breake making that noise, but still nothing, rotor is perfect and yet it will still hit the pad in one place on every revolution, maybe I should replace the bearings, obvioulsy something is not aligned there properly, but if that's what is causing the problem I have no idea....

Really frustrating...

xp

Ok. I got the new relay and changed it. NO DIFFERENCE! Engine misses occasionally.

In the same run I did go thru the wiring from CPS to fuel pump relay. Nothing thou I tried to wiggle wiring harness.

Did also check battery voltage and charging when idling. I got almost 15 volt over battery poles without any consumers on. With all on it still stayed over 12,7. On the other hand I do not trust my VOM so I guess I need to get a fluke.

Any comments on battery voltage and intermittent hickups? RPM gauge does drop every time this occurs. So td signal is lost but could overvoltage or faulty regultor cause this?

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'87 MBenz 190E 2,3 8vlv

190dee sorry to hear that the new relay didn't help

Try testing some of the other components, that's where I would start, take a look at the EHA current and see if it shows anything, that could give a good indication of what's going on.

Where abouts are you located? Maybe I can help out in some way?

xp

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1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project.

Thanks for your offer but as you see I live in Europe, Finland . It would be quite a trip to help me out But if you do keep on reading threads and post your help will be appriciated.

What exactly would the EHA current tell me? From that I would know enrichment or the opposite but could that relate to the tachometer that drops? I cannot see why it would?

As I said in earlier post; there must be something that makes the tachometer to drop as the engine "misses". Either it's the td signal or system voltage that makes enginge management go crazy.

Could a surging cruise control give a hint on faulty charging regulator? I know this is a common problem so in fact I haven't paid a lot of attention to it yet.

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'87 MBenz 190E 2,3 8vlv

Yea, I dug this thread up.........Just wanted to say it helped me find my problem, which was the relay, and I was having these same stalling problems.


Just happy to finally figure out my problem!