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  #16  
Old 05-25-2003, 12:25 PM
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I tried riding without the rear seat to get a better idea where the noise is coming from. This morning as I turned my head to change lanes, I noticed it a bit different on one side then on the other, I just prey that it's the half shaft that I will be replacing because if it's not, I don't know what it could be anymore, and it looks like no one else does either. I'll give everyone an update once the new shaft is it... well the one from the other side since it did not make any noise and was replaced by a different one.

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  #17  
Old 05-25-2003, 12:53 PM
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We had to replace both the axle assemblies on our now-gone 190E 2.6. They made both a clack-clack noise, and a thrum-thrum noise. The driver's side made a distinct clacka noise, and the passenger side made the thumpa noise. I bought rebuilt units, and got both sides for less than half the price of a new one. Dealer list was about $1100 for one side, and I bought both sides rebuilt for $450.

About a month after I FINALLY cured the noises, the car began making another thumpa noise. Tossing the tires solved that one.
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  #18  
Old 05-25-2003, 08:14 PM
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blackmercedes you're giving me hope that replacing the remaining halfshaft will actually fix this, boy I sure hope that's it

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  #19  
Old 05-25-2003, 08:25 PM
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Are there balancing weights on the drive shaft on MBs? I had a '78 Dodge Aspen wagon (don't laugh I loved that car) that lost the weight and I couldn't drive it faster than 50 mph.
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  #20  
Old 05-25-2003, 08:29 PM
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I have had tires that balanced perfect only to find they had radial run out
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  #21  
Old 05-25-2003, 08:40 PM
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yep there are balancing weights on the shaft but they seem in order, like I mentioned before, there are no vibrations while driving. The tires were also replaced, I have two sets I can swap them as much as I want, it will not change a thing.

Knowing life it will be the last part I replace and this is whyI'm hoping the half shaft that has not been touch will do the trick, I will know for sure tomorrow.

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  #22  
Old 05-25-2003, 09:59 PM
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xp 190

Sounds like you're getting "intimate" with the underside of your car.
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  #23  
Old 05-26-2003, 11:17 AM
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it's funny you say that manny just as I'm crawling under the car

but yea my girlfriend is getting real upset because of that he he he

welp, off to switch that shaft

wish me luck

xp
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  #24  
Old 05-26-2003, 01:33 PM
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thumping

We had a thumping sound also and replaced the velocity joints in back. No more noise
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  #25  
Old 05-29-2003, 03:26 PM
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no Luck :(

welp, I have replaced the remaining halfshaft and the noise is still there....

The car glides on the roads, but it thumps and nothing seems to have an efect on it at all.

What's a velocity joint? I have never heard of this before.

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  #26  
Old 05-29-2003, 03:43 PM
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xp

A velocity joint is another name for the constant velocity joint or the universal joint connection at each end of your half-shafts.

Regarding the whumping .... have you checked your tires? A slight tread separation could produce this. How about carefully jacking the rear up and watching the outside (tread) area of the tires for improper undulations?

Keep us posted,

Haasman
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Last edited by haasman; 05-29-2003 at 04:04 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-29-2003, 03:47 PM
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You may want to replace the entire wheel carrier, bearing, hub flange assembly as one piece. A salvage yard may be able to help you here.

I'm suggesting replacing the entire assembly because bearings don't normally cause vibrations. However, if something has worn itself out of wack from hitting a curb real hard or dropping off a floor jack in the past, it may be showing up as thumping now - and replacing a bearing is an expensive and difficult way to not find the problem. Slide hammer, special tools or press are required. Not a mild level DIY project.
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  #28  
Old 05-29-2003, 04:02 PM
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bushings?

unfortunately it's not the tires, I mentioned this earlier.

One thing I did notice is that one of the bushings on the A arm that connects to the wheel carrier is very worn out, there is play in the joint and quite a bit of it.

Is it difficult to replace these? I know I have to compress the sping, just how? the tool for this is super expencive, is it a DIY or not?

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  #29  
Old 05-29-2003, 04:22 PM
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Spring compressing is not really necessary in the rear if you are careful & not all the links require removing the spring. Usually worn rear links cause rear end steering.
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2003, 05:14 PM
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yup I got that

my rear end goes off course when I got over a pot hole, or a bigger bump at higher speeds, it's not much, but it also squeaks when it gets warm... I'd like to replace all the bushings on the A arm, is that possible for a DIYer?

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