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#1
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Tierod removal and installation
Ok, the tierods have been ordered and delivered (Thanks, Phil!). I noticed that they are identical except for the retaining nut -- item #2 (what is the proper name?).
Check out this picture: Ok, my plan -- obviously -- is to install it just as the current one is installed. Here are my question:
Please instruct, correct, and enlighten. I plan on driving straight to the alignment shop. I currently -- at rest -- have about 2" play each way before the steering mechanism moves the wheels. It is primarily the left tie rod, on the inner end. By the way, my toe is out about 1/16 (thanks, LarryBible, for instructions). It is supposed to me toed IN 3/32. Therefore, I am toed OUT 5/32, just a little more than 1/8. Should explain my outside edge feathering on the front tires, too. Thanks mucho.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#2
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Ok, now. 19 people have viewed this post and nobody knows ? I even included a nice, "telestrated" picture
Here's a challenge: See who can give me the answer before LarryBible. Thanks, guys.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#3
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I assume that both ends should be screwed out until they match closely the length of the one removed.
Correct Once the ends are secured, I tighten the hex clamp (3), then tighten #1 against #2. Therefore, to adjust toe, one would loosen the hex clamp (3), adjust, retighten #3 and tighten 1 against 2 again. Sounds right My current (old) tie rod has a larger nut where item 2 is on this tie rod. This new one isn't a nut at all, just a thick metal washer type thing. This holds purely by compression against the split, tapered sleeve, correct? Not exactly sure what you are talking about here. Personally, I would make the new and old tie rods as close to the same lenght as I can get and then take it to an alignment shop to have a proper alignment done.
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Jim |
#4
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Quote:
Thanks.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#5
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I am confused as to what your question actually is.
Your procedure sounds fine to me, but do you have the pullers to get the old parts separated? It took a lot of force to get them apart when I replaced the steering box on my SL. And they didn't come apart gently - as I turned the puller with a large wrench, there was a loud bang and the tie rod "jumped" out. So make sure your hands and other body parts are clear.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#6
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My main question is: Am I correct that to tighten #1, I first clamp #3 then tighten #1 AGAINST #2 -- and that will hold it?
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
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