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Lurker Says Thanks
After using this forum to gather details and instructions about changing a distr cap and rotor, I was able to quickly run through it with minimal scraped knuckles and confusion.
While I have always worked on my own cars and motorcycles including complete motor/trans rebuild, etc I was still aprehensive when I saw where the distr was on the 300. The 300 SE runs much better now. I also changed out the air filter and a broke vacuum line along the way. Don't ask how it got broke. Let's just say I will be replacing all vaccum lines soon as they are brittle as can be. Biggest fear now is wondering how brittle the wiring is going to be. Oh well I have rewired a car or two too so here I come. Tomorrow, is oil and filter time and I have even used the instructions for building a home made one using my shop vac. Not crazy about the spin off perched in back and facing downwaards but after reading messages here feel I can execute with little mess. It wil beat the cost of the local mech doing it I am sure. Thanks again, Tony P Austin, Texas 1989 300 SE |
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Re: Lurker Says Thanks
Quote:
Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain from the pan. If you don't have a new copper ring, you can dress the existing one on some 220-400 paper on a flat surface to remove the galling marks and reuse it. Once the oil is completely drained - say ten minutes - remove the filter. Wrap a rag or two around the filter base, but there should be minimal spillage. Once most of the oil is drained I jack up the right rear of my 190, which lowers the drain hole so that last few ounces of dirty oil drains out. Duke |
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Re: Lurker Says Thanks
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Yours is an M103 engine, which never had a problem with engine wiring harnesses.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
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