Glad to know you think of yourself as a looser, LOL.:p

What trip, I am out for a couple days and have three pages to read. I will read tonight and respond. Thanks for the positive and not so positive comments / .

I just shoot straight. If I Pay $4.1K for a Rolex and think it is just a good $1k watch I say it.. I don't have none of my material things up my butt.

Don't get me wrong I love my car... no regrets, no dissapointments, no.......... going home, to be continued.

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1995 E320 smoke silver / parchment

Here is an article on brake flushing and should answer all of your questions.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/bfed1.htm

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/bfed1.htm

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1989 420 SEL

Thanks for the info Larry. Again, i am just making a point not whinning, as no one forced me into mercedes, lol.... And remember this is the second Mercedes I have had. As someone mentioned maybe its the type of master cylinder with ...ugg I forgot, that rubber thing going down into the fluid (on the cap) or who knows... I had gone through the maintainance requirements b4 so its not like I am going to forego anything on the schedule.

As for the Pontiac... Its been in the family for about 180k miles, 15 yrs or so, uncle # one bought used 15 yrs or so, then uncle #2 had it, then cousin # 1 had it, then me for the last 10-12 months. I asked uncle #1 and he said he never changed the fluid. I have to confirm with #2. Its a matter of interest at this point.

As for the other poster mentioning how the brake fluid looks after x miles.... have you looked at your oil, just after starting, when you change it, it is pretty, but not as pretty as when it was pouring out of that bottle, lol.

I am changing tranny / rear end / brake fluids in the next 60 days anyway.. whatever the answer would've been, as to keep up with the maintainance the car had in its previous life.

thanks

The difference is that the European automaker philosophy is to make a car that if maintained properly, will last 20 years. The American automaker philosophy is to make a car that will last for the duration of the warrantee, then it can be thrown out.

Your mentality is exactly why American automakers don't recommend it. The average American auto buyer looks at the service recommendations and says, "Geez, that MB needs a lot more service than that Chevy... I guess I'll buy the Chevy." So they're encouraging you to maintain your Chevy poorly, and you're rewarding them by buying a Chevy every 5 years.

Yet another symptom of our pathetic throw-away society.

(In my humble opinion)

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

I could not agree more with everything that you said. Having lived in Europe for many years, and now in Canada, I see a huge difference. The latter seems to have an out of sight out of mind mentality, and where preventive maintenance is not followed so strongly. Even if you ignore the importance of regular vehicle maintenance on passenger and pedestrian safety,it can also save you money over the life of your vehicle.. I would rather spend $50 every 2-3 years for a brake fluid flush, than $500 every 5-10 years on new calipers and master cylinder etc. Also the US vehicle manufacturers are playing this silly marketing game, where they advertise their products as low maintenance or virtually maintenance free, i.e. fill with gas and drive. This is of course ridiculous but it does not stop many consumers from buying into such wishful thinking. IMHO having your brakes well maintained (including a regular brake fluid flush) is good for overall safety, and in the long run, your pocket book.

I don't know if this is the result of frequent brake fluid change, but my 17 years old W124 with well over 400K on the clock still has its original brake caliper,(never opened) master cylinder and brake lines.
Same results with the rear end, transmission and power steering system

i used to think it was silly too. but i am a believer now.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Every once in a while, old threads like this are brought back up because they are the ones that bring the most controversy. Change your brake fluid? It's right up there with coolant changes - something people really overlook, but shouldn't. And then, every now and then, you have a handful of people saying how their great grandmother's 1958 Edsel ran on its original oil, brake fluid, tires and gas for 30 million miles.
Yes, there are some conditions in which brake fluid changes are not needed as frequently (or at all) - for example, if you live in Las Vegas, it's not really humid there, so your brake fluid might last 15 years longer than someone who lives in Seattle, where it always rains. Also, older style brake fluid reservoirs (the ones with the metal lids) don't let much, if any air in the system, because the top has a rubber seal that acts as a diaphragm, preventing a vacuum when the pedal is pushed, where modern clear reservoirs have a cap with a vent hole. That adds a few years on as well.
I recently changed the brake fluid for the rear lines on my Jeep (around October/November). It was the original fluid - in there since '92. It worked fine! But damn, it was the color of coffee, and the texture of bottom-of-the-pot coffee. You know, with all the grounds in it. I can feel a firmer pedal now.
And you are one of the rarities. Most people with well over 400k on the clock have changed each fluid you mentioned (except maybe power steering) at least 2 times. Have you ever looked at the color of your ATF or brake fluid compared to new? If you did a brake fluid change, it would probably scare you when you look at what you were driving around with.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2024 CR-V Hybrid

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2018 Durango R/T, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

<>

Actually , Jack D post attributes his brakes systems longevity to frequent fluid changes..

As you say , there are those small percentage of the populace who never change fluid and have no problems, they also never catch a cold , never lose a nights sleep, never drain the water heater etc..and they get by just fine due to LUCK...what they lack is Common Sense and Wisdom.....but when you are lucky, you don't need either.
I am not .

The links above show - very graphically! - why we need to flush the brake fluid every 2 years (or better yet, every year). The fluid should be golden in color - not brown. I have a Speedi-Bleed kit which makes the flush procedure a snap. Even paying the dealer is only $50 - much cheaper than replacing or rebuilding calipers, master cylinders, or ABS pumps. (You *did* look at the link Cigar Havana posted, didn't you?)

On a side note, MB specs a DOT4 fluid. I did a ton of research on brake fluids and the short version is to use Valvoline SynPower fluid, it has very high boil points (above DOT 4 specs), is easily available at every McParts store nationwide, and only cost $5/quart. Yes, ATE SuperBlue (and Typ200 Gold) is better... but it's harder to locate and costs $10-$12/quart. I prefer the ATE but the Valvoline completely outperforms any other cheap fluid on the market. Just make sure you change it at least every 2 years!

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Ooooh... I feel a brake fluid thread brewing...

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Maybe we could discuss the merits of synthetic brake fluid compared to good ol' dino?

(struggles to keep straight face)

:p

Sixto, you may be on to something - brewing our own brake fluid..

Cheers,
Wes


(Let's see, it will need to strip paint. Also be able to absorb moisture.... anything else?)

Do NOT mix SynPower with any other fluid. I have had some weird results. You must flush all the old stuff out when you put in Syn Power and you better keep some in the trunk when you want to top it off. It seemed to me like it seperates and doesn't mesh uniformly with the other fluid if you add other fluid to it.

I prefer ATE Blue for my gas powered cars and ATE SL for my diesels. I change it about once a year in the spring or so like MB recommends.

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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

Interesting. Why?

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL