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  #16  
Old 07-24-2004, 08:40 PM
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Yea, verified meter, it works fine and it's brand new. Thanks for all your help.

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  #17  
Old 07-24-2004, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eiknujrac
But if the KE controller was shut down, would i still be able to get the fault codes with the impulse counter from pin #3 on the data port near the battery?

That has been bothering me. At some point in time the DM (diagnostic module ) is the one handling the light and codes. is this car a CA version? The wiring diagram is needed at this point and I don't have one to look at here at home.

NEED some help from the group!
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2004, 08:45 PM
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No its a fed car, had to build my own LED tool.

EDIT: going to check all the readings i've done so far, gimme 10 0minutes.
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:06 PM
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Fault Code: 9 (Current to Electro-Hydrualic Actuator)
EHA Current KOEO: 3.2mA
EHA Connector Voltage KOEO: .5v
ICV Current KOEO: .01mA
ICV Connector Voltage KOEO: 2.05v
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:08 PM
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One thing i forgot to mention from the beginning:

Upon startup, the car will sometimes sputter, and when given gas the RPM's will drop. Until the car gets relatively warm, the car will also hesitate off the line.

I'm not sure this is related, but i thought i would mention it.
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  #21  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:21 PM
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You mentioned something earlier about the OVP going bad, is there a way that i can test this? Your article says that if the OVP goes bad it kills the EHA Current.
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  #22  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:23 PM
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Sure sounds like a dead KE. If you had an OVP it would be a slam dunk. The cold starting systems will be dead if KE is dead and thus the symptoms.
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  #23  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:32 PM
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Is the KE controller the black box behind the battery with the connector on top?
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  #24  
Old 07-24-2004, 10:11 PM
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Everything is black back there. There are two larger boxes the KE and the ABS controller. The ABS is very wide and quite short the KE controller is about the size and shape of a book.

The MAS is silver with a black knob on the top with "I' and "O" written besides the knob.
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  #25  
Old 07-24-2004, 10:15 PM
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Ok, i found it, from the looks of it, i'm betting its relatively expensive. Any way to test it? Or do you know about how much one would cost?
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  #26  
Old 07-25-2004, 11:49 AM
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Did one last test, obtained from the service CD's.

I rigged a harness for the EHA, like before, and measured the current. KOEO, like before, was just 3.2mA, but with the engine warm and idling i got a current of 20mA, and after raising RPM to 3500 (as per the CD's) and releasing throttle, it jumped to -20mA. The CD says it should reach -60mA, or "repeat steps 1-4 or replace KE Control Unit"

Just would like to know if you know of any definitive tests to make sure the KE control unit is faulty before i have to purchase another one.
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Last edited by Eiknujrac; 07-25-2004 at 01:23 PM.
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  #27  
Old 07-25-2004, 05:51 PM
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Anyone know how to test the KE Controller to verify whether it is faulty or not?

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