Front Subframe Mount-'66 230 (110.011)

[Carpenterman]

Seasons Greetings, everyone! I'm sitting here while car is in winter repose planning to replace suspension rubbers in the spring. My research has revealed the following:

1) I ordered the engine (m180.945) mounts correctly per the online sales catalogue. Both are the same. But I have read that the left and right mounts are different for the six cylinder 110s. Is this right?

2) Rear engine mount was hard to find so made some calls and it appears that there are only 7 left and after that they are NLA. $270 . It was suggested that I go to a truck parts supplier and see if I can adapt something. Any ideas?

3) The differential mount was available but it was $230 . Guess I'll wait and see if it really needs replacing. Do these commonly go bad?

4) Now for the front subframe mounts. They are apparently NLA. I found a kit (parts # 115-330-18-75/36-04347) from an online supplier listed for my vehicle but it doesn't look anything like the pictures I've found in the service manual and the parts catalogue (see attachments--my model is the same as the 190c, 190Dc in the service manual). The tech guy at the supplier said that the kit would work. I wonder. Anyone have any experience with this kit?

I haven't had the car long and haven't spent much time under it. The motor mounts are definitely collapsed and vibrations are being transmitted to the cab. I haven't checked the subframe, rear engine, or diff mounts yet, but figure it would be good policy to change them (for a reasonable cost). Any experience with these components would be greatly appreciated.

Parts and prices sure are a challenge on this car compared to my '81 300TD.

[cth350]

rubber deteriorates over time. That rear mount is probably old enough to have children. Replace it when you wallet recovers from the current round of repairs. Also do the other bits rear rubber while you're doing that one.

As for the frame mounts, the W115 cars have four squat bushings. Your W110 uses two tall ones. They don't interchange.

-CTH

[wbain5280]

In other words, you have the wrong subframe mounts for your model.

[Carpenterman]

!&$%#@!! So they won't work. The guy told me very clearly over the phone that they would. Now I have to return them and pay the restocking/shipping fee.

[JMela]

You might check w MB's Classic Center. They'll have the definitive word on if a part is NLA or not. They'll also ship the correct parts for your vehicle.

[Squiggle Dog]

I found some available new and I sent you PM.

[Necrosavant]

the correct mount is the one on the left the one on the right is the one you linked me to squiggle

[Carpenterman]

I do believe you are correct, sir. I pulled the cover on the car today and saw that the center mounting bolt head was even with the four hex screws, rather than recessed as in the shop manual drawing of the type on the right in your photo.

I have an email in to Tom Hanson at the Classic Center to help me sort this out.

[Squiggle Dog]

Originally Posted by Necrosavant

the correct mount is the one on the left the one on the right is the one you linked me to squiggle

Weird... it looks similar halfway up, then it looks like it's missing half of it... Interesting that the parts supplier said it would work for the W110 chassis. I hope you guys figure this out before mine go bad!

[Benz Dr.]

There is such a thing as a W110 car called a 230 or 230S, we all know that.
There is also a W114 called a 230. I've only ever seen one so I think they're not all that common.

The sub frame mount kits are readily available for either model. No need to go to the Vlassic Center.

[mak]

The original sub-frame mounting on my 220s /62 (drum brakes front) was the one on the left , i replaced it with a 65 model with disc brakes , the mounting fitted was on the right ,all of my cars have the mounts similar to one on the right.

mak
220s 62
230 66
280s 70
300SEL 3.5 71

[Carpenterman]

So you're saying that the one on the right fits (at least on the 230) even though the one on the left is original to the car? It appears to be shorter. Did it lower the front of the car?

[Benz Dr.]

I can't acess the EPC from where I live. I think you need a zip code which I don't have.

[Necrosavant]

use part number #120 223 04 12 for transmission mount ..i used it on my 200d with no problems (cost me 17$ for aftermarket)...the 260$ mount is actually a mount kit with little rubber washers,bolts,and dust sleeve thats not needed

[Carpenterman]

Thanks for the tip! I ran the part # on a couple of parts sites and sure enough it's there and cheap. The FSM shows an additional rubber spacer in the assembly at the top. Did you just reuse this? Do the bellows deteriorate or are they also normally reusable?

Have you done the differential mount and is there a good source for these? While I'm on the subject of rubber parts, can a flex disc from a w123 be substituted or is it unique to this chassis?

With regard to the subframe mount (and assuming I can't find or don't want to pay for the tall one), I'm wondering if I can just shim the shorter mount at the top metal base to raise the body enough to clear the engine. If so, what would you estimate the difference in height between the two mounts to be?

Still waiting on the Classic Center to respond to my email. I guess I'll call tomorrow.