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#1
07-08-2014, 02:02 PM
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67 250s ignition issues
Recently picked it up and the PO replaced a lot of ignition parts trying to correct the no start issue. I'm assuming they never checked the points, because they were cooked. The car has a Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil on it. Everything is wired in the way it should be with the stock coil. It does get spark to the distributor on occasion and the car will sputter or backfire. I was wondering if any changes needed to be made when using a Flame Thrower coil with points? Or if anyone recommends using another coil?
Also, if anyone could provide links to ignition diagrams that would be great. 
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#2
07-08-2014, 02:44 PM
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There was another thread in tech with the exact same car and issue you mention.
If the points are cooked then its best to check the primary resistance of the ignition coil - if its too low it will seriously harm the points and even fry them in a matter of minutes. a pretty basic points ignition diagram is this and is pretty similar in every car  The only one or two different ones were e.g. GM who dont use a dedicated resistor but have a resistive wire in place of it. If you are in a pinch to test it - head over to a Jyard and nab a denso coil from an old toyota and test it - if the coil you find is a red cap do not connect it directly - you need a step down resistor for it.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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#3
07-13-2014, 02:24 AM
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From what I can see, a single wire from the ignition goes to one side of a resistor, and from there to the (+) on the coil. The (-) on the coil goes to the points and condenser. Is there supposed to be a secondary wire directly from the ignition switch to ignition coil on these cars? It seems that there is no power making it's way to the distributor.
I'm getting frustrated, but I'm trying to make a learning process out of this instead of giving up. We have a 4.5l with complete wiring harness in the garage and at this point it seems like swapping that in would be a lot easier than dealing with this issue. At least I know that engine was running great before we pulled it and have experience with D-Jetronic. But I'm determined to figure this problem out.
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#4
07-18-2014, 02:01 AM
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I ended up testing everything. Turns out the previous owner never put an insulator around the bolt that goes to the points/condenser, so power was grounding out to the distributor housing. It runs great now!
Anyone in the New Hampshire area looking to buy a full 4.5l M117 drivetrain with around 80k, complete with wiring harness still attached? 
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