My Finny arrives...

[joshhol]

93 is fine for me, never had any knocks. I don't use lead additive but my engine was rebuilt in '83 so I assume they dealt with the valves.

Can pretty much guarantee you don't add oil to the water pump anymore.

[meltedpanda]

I just checked mine as well, no fill holes, must be the earlier models

[muleears]

I was just fiddling with the flasher and I think I got it working, but the front lights don't light. I took the clear bulbs out of the clear lenses and at this point it occurred to me that they aren't amber. Don't front turn signals in the US have to be amber? If these worked they would just be white. What's the story here? Am I supposed to have amber colored bulbs in there or would a '62 be exempt from this? Again I'm *ASSUMING* that the outboard light between the headlights is the turn signal. I see other model years with the turn signal mounted between the grill and the headlights, mine has no such lights. Help me out fella's (and gals).

[meltedpanda]

the front on mine has two other lights , turn signals , but they blink white, I also have the bulb holder in the headlight but it is for running lights ?

[Coolvibes]

Hi mule ears. I think the 3-terminal flasher relay you have may also have been used in Volvo 122 / Amazons.

The "L" terminal of the relay connects to the indicator / blinker switch in the steering column, the "P" terminal connects to the blinker light on the dashboard / instrument panel, and the "X" terminal connects to a power source / fuse box.

[gmog220d]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

the front on mine has two other lights , turn signals , but they blink white, I also have the bulb holder in the headlight but it is for running lights ?

Ron, do your headlamp assemblies have the inner and outer running/parking lamps, like Muleear's car does? See the first page of this thread, post #4. There's a pic of the front end that shows the headlight assemblies in detail. There are small lenses in either side of each assembly. I looked up the wiring diagrams in the Glenn's book. It shows both "parking" and "clearance" lamps. I wonder if the "clearance" lamp is on the outside, and the "parking" lamp is on the inside. This would be in conjunction with the separate turn signals like your car has.

Not sure what to think of your car's apparent lack of turn signals, Muleears, unless one of the smaller lamps in each assembly is the turn signal for your car. Have you connected a test lamp to either of the small sockets to see if they blink?

[muleears]

Originally Posted by gmog220d

Ron, does yours have the inner and outer running/parking lamps, like Muleear's car does? See the first page of this thread, post #4. There's a pic of the front end that shows the headlight assemblies in detail. There are small lenses in either side of each assembly.

I looked up the wiring diagrams in the Glenn's book. It shows both "parking" and "clearance" lamps. I wonder if the "clearance" lamp is on the outside, and the "parking" lamp is on the inside.

Not sure what to think of your car's apparent lack of turn signals, Muleears, unless the smaller lamp on the inside of each assembly is the turn signal for your car. Have you connected a test lap to either of the small sockets to see if they blink?

I haven't tested anything yet. I ran out of daylight. I'll do that tomorrow. The rears worked, the left blinked at the correct rate, the right at a faster rate. That's why I pulled the front right bulb, to see if it was bad.

I wonder if my car had them removed. There is some bodywork in that area on both sides. I suppose I can wire these lights to act as the turns.

[muleears]

Originally Posted by muleears

I haven't tested anything yet. I ran out of daylight. I'll do that tomorrow. The rears worked, the left blinked at the correct rate, the right at a faster rate. That's why I pulled the front right bulb, to see if it was bad.

I wonder if my car had them removed. There is some bodywork in that area on both sides. I suppose I can wire these lights to act as the turns.

Upon closer inspection, I see there is a chrome (well, it used to be chrome) strip on my car that passes right through the same location that Ron's car has the lights. I know the chrome trim is supposed to be there, it's part of the "S" trim upgrade. More investigation is needed but this pesky job keeps getting in the way...

**Update** upon the closer inspection, it turns out the outer clear lens next to my headlight is my turn signal. I cleaned the contacts on the bulb and socket and it began blinking, quite slow, but it blinked! Ah, little victories! the inboard light is just a parking light.

[muleears]

In a conversation with JeffreyNMemphis yesterday, he suggested that I open the valve cover and pre-oil the top end before trying to start the car. I have done so and also, unplugged the coil wire and hit the starter. I was surprised at the oil pressure I got from just the starter. I think the time has come to try and start her, I dribbled a little gas in the carbs and again hit the starter, this time with the coil wire in place. She started! Well, stumbled and sputtered for a few seconds but she tried to run. I think today I will connect to an auxiliary fuel tank and see if she'll run for a few seconds. I can only run it briefly as I have a hole in the rad. I'll only let her run for 30 seconds or so, don't want to overheat the head! I still don't have her in the garage so working on her has to be done in small bites. The heat index here today will be 108*, air temp of 98* and high humidity.
Choke question: I have a manual choke (it's a '62, pre-automatic choke). When I operate the choke knob I see the linkage on both carbs move as I think they should, but I don't see a butterfly in the carb close. Should the butterfly in the secondary throat close or is there another one under the throttle butterfly that I cannot see with the throttle at idle? As usual, any comments and advice are appreciated!

[joshhol]

There is no butterfly. There's a starter air valve that moves on the side of the carbs that opens and closes different air passages depending on the choke position. This enriches the mixture for starting. I did a post on them not too long ago.

[muleears]

Originally Posted by joshhol

There is no butterfly. There's a starter air valve that moves on the side of the carbs that opens and closes different air passages depending on the choke position. This enriches the mixture for starting. I did a post on them not too long ago.

Thanks joshhol, that's good to know. I was looking for a butterfly to open and close.

[meltedpanda]

correct and on mine when I restored them was filled with carbon crap. I'd rebuild those carbs as another first step in getting her running , just my opinion of course

[muleears]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

correct and on mine when I restored them was filled with carbon crap. I'd rebuild those carbs as another first step in getting her running , just my opinion of course

Where did you buy your rebuild kits? JeffreyNMemphis recommends Phil Langlois, who quoted me 2 kits with extra needed carb base gaskets, $136 postage paid. I contacted Royze but haven't gotten their quote yet. I had seen the Zenith kits for significantly less elsewhere but I hadn't seen the Solex. Pelican doesn't offer carb kits.

[meltedpanda]

I think I got them from Autohouz, they did not come with the carb base gaskets, but I made my own ( I have a gasket punch)
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Solex-32PBIC-Carburetor-Repair-Kit_p_657.html
these guys have a lot of kits and are pretty knowledgeable

[muleears]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

I think I got them from Autohouz, they did not come with the carb base gaskets, but I made my own ( I have a gasket punch)
Solex 32PBIC Carburetor Repair Kit
these guys have a lot of kits and are pretty knowledgeable

The first place you mentioned, I can only find Zenith kits, the second, carb-parts.com doesn't list one for my carb. I haven't heard back from Royze yet.