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#16
08-27-2002, 07:36 PM
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Once you've done a wheel bearing race change, it takes longer to tell someone how that to do it!
Glad it turned out well -- car always drives better on good bearings and new rotors! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! 
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#17
08-27-2002, 09:03 PM
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Well here is one for the biggest OOPS! records. Everything going fine, got the hex bolts off without a problem. Got my new bearings via UPS today and was ready to cook on the brake job. In hammering in the race of one wheel, was concintrating (wrong thing to do) on getting them in straight and set down. Got them both in and lo and behold. Both backwards! At the time we had a lightning storm in Denver and I went out and asked to be hit by a bolt for my stupidness. Luckily, I didn't get my wish. But sure feel stupid.
Guess I'll have to get another wheel hub as now they will never be punched out. Not to mention two wheel bearings. Gympie
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#18
08-27-2002, 09:13 PM
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 That is a good one....and you did BOTH OF THEM ! ? Well, you are not the first to do that... but geez you are sure giving up fast on the hubs.... Did you not learn anything about the experience available to you over the computer screen ? Where is your confidance in me and Peter ?Now is the time to use the dremel to put the indents in the hub.... or get an air chisel and see if you can make a place on the face of the race to power it out ... or several... moving around....to keep it even... since they are backwards they will be presenting a favorable slope for you to make a catch spot on the race... Also, a good welder can cut it out without hurting the hub...a short hot flame and quick oxygen will take it out without even heating the hub... Now get back in there and show that piece of metal what you are made of....  and let us know which worked.... , Greg
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#19
08-27-2002, 09:37 PM
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Thanks Greg for the reply. Still feel if I had a donkey, I would pester it enough to kick me in the butt.
Found another hub. A guy down the street had two in his garage. Will have to take the cups out again, but now I have a race to take them out with. Did the second wheel right although. Tough lesson to learn on the first. Gypmie
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#20
08-27-2002, 10:34 PM
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I understand how it happend... you thinking about hitting it evenly... and that side offers the best space to hit.... that is the wide side... who would choose to hit a tiny lip when a big nice surface was available...
How lucky that guy had one so close... wow ! But I still think you should take the errant one out just for the practice and confidance...
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#21
08-27-2002, 11:24 PM
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Yeah, that is exacty what happened. Was hitting the widest part instead of the narrow.
How does the saying go? "Two hours of work, 30 bucks for bearings.... lesson learned--Priceless......" Will work on the errant one later. Got to save my confidance for the rear wheels. But am not going to do any bearing work on them. Gympie
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#22
08-29-2002, 12:59 AM
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An update. Decided this AM not to let my mistake turn to an easy out by using another hub. Tried the Dremiel tool to cut away some of the race without major success. Then got the air chisel out to see if it could be broken of pieced out. Again no success. That German steel is damn solid metal.
By this time started to get Teed-off at it and took a torch to the hub. Heated it until red hot then punched out the inner and outer race. Took some time to do it and a hour for the hub to air cool down but they are out. Now to start once again, but this time knowing which end is first. Thanks for your confidence building all!! Gympie
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#23
08-30-2002, 12:44 AM
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Gympie:
Don't feel bad, I have the old race from the wheel bearing installed on the Volvo. I managed to put the old one back in (twice, no less), while changing them to cure a perpetual loose front wheel bearing problem. I'm not quite sure why I did this, but decided at 11:30 pm not to fix it. Works fine. At least when you get the bearings you know they fit -- Volvo has three different rotors, two different calipers, and two difference bearings for the front wheels on the 740 series, none interchangeable..... and not listed properly, either. Big pain. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#24
08-30-2002, 01:15 AM
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Thanks Peter. Sounds like the front Mercedes bearings are much easier than a Volvo. I'll stay away from the 740 series Volvo.
 Want to thank you again for your help and encouragement in this project. It is very much appreciated and I learned much from you and Greg! Gympie
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#25
08-31-2002, 07:53 PM
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As an upadate to the front break job.
Bought new bearings locally. Was surprised to learn the OEM bearings I bought were not more than a standard Set 3 and Set 5 available locally. Live and learn I guess. Got the cups in the right direction this time. Bought a race/seal driver set. Much easier this way have found. And torqued down the rotor to the hub a 115 Nm. Gobbed up the bearings and put a new seal in and tried to mount the unit (hub & rotor) to the kingpin. But am having a problem getting it all the way onto the kingpin. It mounts to were the threaded end just comes to the outer bearing. No room to thread the collar nut onto. What is the trick in getting the hub set? Got a 10# sledge......
Last edited by Gympie; 08-31-2002 at 10:17 PM.
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