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#1
03-23-2009, 03:53 PM
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How Does WVO Affect My 616 Engine?
I wanna hear from every chipper charlie to every debbie downer about the ups and downs of WVO in the 240D engine (which includes things like IP) on a two-tank conversion. I have not tested my oil for anything and gravity filter down to 5 microns.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold  1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition 
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#3
03-23-2009, 04:06 PM
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Debbie Downer
 - I ruined a set of injectors by running on 100% WVO in 90F heat and then the fuel congealed in the IP causing me to strand the car at Santa Monica Beach Pier overnight. I got the car running the next day but man it nailed like crazy after that.
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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power! 1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k
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#4
03-23-2009, 04:08 PM
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All depends on the way you Dry your oil, and prepare it for use as a motor-fuel...
All WVO contains Moisture, FFA and other nasties. Most nasties can be Filtered out by filtering to 1 micron... However, FFA and Moisture Cannot..... FFA = Free-Fatty-Acid. This is an acidic type of oil..... FFA will turn Moisture Acidic..... This will over time destroy the high-pressure pumping elements in the fuel pump...(Expensive to replace) FFA Without Moisture is fairly innocuous...(Banning Moisture completely is nerly impossible due to tank condensation issues etc. Veggy-oil is mildly hygroscopic, meaning it likes to absorb a certain amount of water from the air......) This is why its VERY important to Properly DRY the oil before it get anywhere near any car fuel-tank... Providing the oil is prepared for motor use PROPERLY then there are no real issues. --Not even a twin-tank needed, providing winter-temps dont drop too much below 0 deg C-- IF the Engine and Injection-System is prepared properly, Unfortunately this Seldom done-- (A 'Twin-Tank' is good for 'feel-good' factor but if the oil is crap, then so is the life-expectancy of the fuel-system...)
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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#5
03-23-2009, 04:22 PM
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Well, I won't be altering my injection system and it does drop rather far below 0 degrees centigrade here in Massachusetts some nights, so I think I will keep my twin-tanker. As for water, though, what is the best way to remove it?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition
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#6
03-23-2009, 04:36 PM
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Your going to kill your motor. Just run it on diesel, thats what it was designed for. I have seen to many old MB diesels ruined by people using WVO. In fact last month my buddy and I were trying to get a 1980 300TD with 200K running, the PO had run it on WVO and had ruined the motor. The compression was about 150-200PSI in all 5 cylinders, motor was toast..
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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#7
03-23-2009, 04:41 PM
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How can you be sure that that WVO caused that low compression? How would it? And, although these engines were designed to run on mineral diesel, I'm sure you've heard, the original diesel engine designed by Rudolph Diesel ran on peanut oil. I'm just trying to get all the facts here.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition
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#8
03-23-2009, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Its your $$ when you wreck your motor.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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#9
03-23-2009, 07:16 PM
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FYI, his first engine ran on Coal Dust. Quote:
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#10
03-23-2009, 09:25 PM
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD 82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride 82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown 83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too 84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD 85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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#11
03-23-2009, 09:32 PM
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#12
03-24-2009, 07:56 AM
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Forced Induction-- Well, Here's a first... We agree on summit and on the subject of WVO.... (Apart from the increased emissions comment. A PROPERLY set-up engine--Rarely done-- has on average Half the emissions found when same engine run on std. diesel--But, still not as good as Proper BioDiesel fuel....) Used-cooking-oil will Never be as good as Proper BioDiesel in any engine,--Except maybe the three-pot Elsbett engine specially made for it... Yes, I have an engine thats done 80 odd K on WVO--possibly more,, I still have the engine--the car fell apart round it. Engine however, is still fine, with good compression numbers so I have kept it and scrapped the car.... Fuel-System Preparation is Essential (This includes Injector work and Timing Alterations....)--if you value the engine and intend to use Veggy-Oil, whether Fresh,-- Or dare I say it, WVO for more than a few K.... Veggy-Oil Burns at a Different Rate, acts differently in the injection system dynamically, and also changes its characteristic from stone-cold to full running temps. These issue MUST be addressed to allow trouble-free operation. A simple DIY Twin-Tank or kit just don't cut it, only helps somewhat..... FFA's contained in WVO Cannot be filtered out. FFA's are Acidic--Yes, they do burn extremely well--in fact, prolly better than BioDiesel or Std. nos 1, and in some unrelated research, I have run an engine on near pure FFA derived from WVO Bio-Glyc.--Not an M.B.--a Pug XUD9-TE-- (FFA ends up in the glyc. phase as soaps that can be split off by acidulation at a later process stage....) The Average-content of FFA in used-cooking-oil is between 7 and 12%  However, the FFA's in waste-oil make moisture acidic--Yes, Its possible to neutralise the FFA in used-oil--But Such a PITA to do Properly, And you lose half of your feedstock, so is nearly never done!. To Properly De-Water, arrange a tank with a circulating-pump, and a heater, (Take all necessary precautions with elect. heating so as to cut power if oil level should fall for whatever reason. Explosions/fires are the result of leaks without safety interlocks/level switches). Arrange a ducted fan to push air through the closed top of the vessel and out to a separate vent. Heat to 100-120 degrees C, while circulating oil. Place spray-head on oil return in top of vessel to increase oil surface-area to air and speed drying... Over 10 years and more, I have used VWO. But I found in the end, the needed effort to clean, dry and make GOOD outta WVO was almost as much effort as making a Proper and Recognised fuel!! Hence, I now make BioDiesel, which is 100 times better than just some old veggy from the local chippy filtered through 'J' cloths or bed-sheets that some guys use! With regards to the 'Old' M.B. manual illustrated earlier with the text including use of Veggy-Oil, (Fresh, NOT Used Cooking-Oil) Looking at the design of the engine, its not fundamentally different from the OM-61x series. It has the 'proper M.B.' type Pre-Chamber and Pintle type injector..... BTW, That old chestnut of 'Dr Rudy' his engine and the peanut oil, I am just SO sick of hearing......  (If I had drink for every time I have heard some hippy-type say That, I would be a hopeless alcoholic......) His engine Prototype built at the M.A.N. works, ran on Coal-Dust.... The whole Peanut-oil thing--That was done Purely for POLITICAL reasons. Exhibition was in Paris, France...... France had Many Colonies. These colonies included many that grew Peanuts and similar crops that could be used to make oils--so lets put That one to bed.........
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
Last edited by Alastair; 03-24-2009 at 08:20 AM.
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#13
03-24-2009, 09:16 AM
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Those of you so fond of comparing Dr. Diesel's engine to Mercedes, watch this video and point out anything you find in common. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9r_RqQbMpQ Last edited by ForcedInduction; 03-24-2009 at 09:25 AM.
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#14
03-23-2009, 04:46 PM
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The car was run on WVO for 1 year and then it started running really bad and then one day it wouldn't start. To be honest I have no proof that it was the WVO but why else would a perfectly good car loose all its compression in 1 year. The car only had 200K on it.
I assume it ruined the valve seals causing the low compression.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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#15
03-23-2009, 04:53 PM
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What about all those people with 30,000-50,000 miles logged on WVO? Maybe the previous owner didn't take the necessary actions to properly run the engine on WVO?
__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition
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