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  #16  
Old 10-13-2011, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
Thanks for this DIY write-up Roy. I read it over but I do not think that I need to pull out my rear window to fix a small leak I have in the lower right side. (What I see is some drops of water in the trunk when it is raining.) I had leaks in the lower corners of my front windshield and what I did was get the non hardening MB windshield caulking. I was able to slip the flat nozzle under the windshield gasket, pump in the caulking and it solved the problem beautifully.

I would like to do the same with the rear windshield but there is no room to get the nozzle under the gasket. Can I take out the chrome trim, which I assume is holding everything tight, get some caulking under the gasket, then replace the chrome trim? Before I start to pry, pull and possibly do some damage, I thought it would be wise to ask for some advice from someone that has had this apart.

Richard
Sorry, it is not possible to remove the chrome trim from an old windshield gasket, without wrecking the gasket.

Note the attached graphic of the windshield chrome cross section, it seats in a locking channel = once the glass/gasket/chrome assembly is installed, "there is a limited time window to make adjustments before the gasket becomes hardened".
Attached Thumbnails
REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-w123-cross-section-windshield-seal-chrome.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 10-13-2011, 07:57 AM
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It sounds like my only option is to remove the glass and replace the gasket. I'll look again but it did not appear to me that there was enough room / play to slip a nozzle under the gasket on the rear window.

Does the front windshield gasket work the same way, with a locking arrangement?
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  #18  
Old 10-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
It sounds like my only option is to remove the glass and replace the gasket. I'll look again but it did not appear to me that there was enough room / play to slip a nozzle under the gasket on the rear window.

Does the front windshield gasket work the same way, with a locking arrangement?
YES.
The front windshield gasket works the same.
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  #19  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:39 PM
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Dang. Thanks, Roy. At least now I won't break anything trying to pry it out.

Richard
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  #20  
Old 10-19-2011, 06:28 PM
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"Never use any rubberized/silicone sealer."

woops. It didn't work in the first place, but I tried using silicone adhesive on the area where the water pools on the lower rear window seals. After finding it didn't help at all, I cleaned it off.

I too am trying to fix the rear window seal leak.
I have some rust under that window where the water pools. It's difficult to get at, but once I have the leak solved, it will get and blasted? or somehow cleaned out and zapped with POR-15. Difficult to see, but if you reach into the holes under window behind the trunk lid, you can FEEL the rust forming where the paint gave up.
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  #21  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:21 PM
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It's an old thread, but I did find it very useful (together w this discussion of windshield seal replacement) over last 3-4 days when I replaced the front seal.

Day One: Twist off rearview mirror, remove mount, remove visors & clips, dome light, remove front sunroof trim, slide fwd & remove front part of headliner; unsnap A-pillar covers. I cut up the seal w/razor and was able to push out and remove the glass by myself

Day Two: Clean mounting lip of some asphalt/tar (!) sealer. Ugh. Used plastic ice-scraper, then 1/2" piece of plexiglass, periodically resharpened on a chop saw. Also gasoline. 6+ hrs, 95% clean.

Day Three: Put plumbers putty in glass slot of the seal (not easy), put seal on glass, install trim in glass w/soapy water. Difficult. Upper part of glass is concave, so only the trim will hold the seal to the glass. More putty on the mounting lip. Rope in the metal slot of the trim. Removed three screws (and lost one) on the body trim next to the windshield (to provide more clearance), but the trim didn't come off.

Day Four: Try One: (2 helpers) With some difficulties placed glass w/seal & trim on the lower mounting lip, pulled ropes up to upper corners, but glass too high. Front lip of the seal wedged against a ridge on front panel. Aborted. Try Two: (1 helper) Lots of soapy water into the seal, added addtl rope to bottom front lip of seal. Couldn't place the assembly over the mounting lip, but cord-pulling did it, w/helper behind me thru the sunroof pushing the glass down. 6 minutes. Some seating of the seal/trim was needed. (the addtl rope wasn't really needed, but didn't hurt either)

Pic: circled: right A-pillar (top is left) clips, right clip of the front headliner. Also: mirror & mount, visor clip
Attached Thumbnails
REAR windshield seal W116, 123, 126-front_trim.jpg  
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Last edited by ak_pdx; 09-01-2012 at 02:26 PM.
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  #22  
Old 12-21-2012, 01:41 PM
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Has anyone found a suitable replacement (in a tube, not in a tub) for the Mercedes sealing compound 001 989 31 20?
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  #23  
Old 01-08-2013, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Has anyone found a suitable replacement (in a tube, not in a tub) for the Mercedes sealing compound 001 989 31 20?
3M Bedding & Glazing Compound 08509 (non-hardening black--NOT hardening 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane 08609--that's for glue-on gaskets, but might be useful for filling in large gaps or broken portions of the seal) seems to work, however, if you don't do the job on a summer day or in a heated building, chances are the tube will blow out partway through the job and you'll have to get another one. Removing the contents of the tube and putting them in metal applicator of some sort might prevent dealing with bursting tubes, especially if you can get a heated applicator tool.
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  #24  
Old 10-02-2013, 10:25 PM
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Recycled

for a new 240D owner.

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  #25  
Old 07-01-2018, 06:22 PM
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I'm guessing the cord is pulled from inside the car, right?
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  #26  
Old 07-08-2018, 09:39 AM
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NOTE TO ANYONE REPLACING THE GASKET:

Scotchbright pads will make quick work of the old putty.

My car is a w126 and I replaced the rear windshield and glass. It sat in SC and TN sun for 20+ years so some of the putty chipped off with a plastic scraper.

Some of it was about as fresh as the day it was installed but I have no idea how long ago that was. It appeared to be original.

I happened to have a box of scotchbright pads purchased at Sam's Club for about 10 bucks. It's a huge box with about 20-25 pieces of 6"x10" pads, FYI. It took most of one of those pads. A pack of three of the smaller pads would be enough.

After considering using a sharp metal putty knife I decided I'd do more damage than good though I intended to use a liberal amount of Por 15 either way.

I had a small piece of the pad near so I tried it after scraping all the putty that the plastic knife would get. Be careful, it's very abrasive and will remove the shine off the finish paint.

The entire putty removal job took half an hour. It could have been done in 10 minutes if you start with what you need.
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Last edited by Clemson88; 07-09-2018 at 03:15 PM.
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